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Sunburst Dining Table - WIP. *** NOW FINISHED ***

This is where we don't want anything but evidence of your finest wood butchering in all its glorious, and photograph laden glory. Bring your finished products or WIP's, we love them all, so long as there's pictures, and plenty of 'em!

Re: Sunburst Dining Table - WIP. *** NOW FINISHED ***

Postby Woodbloke » 30 Mar 2019, 15:47

RogerM wrote: I was amazed at how little of the Raw is needed to keep the maple pale - just wipe on a single coat and wipe it off again! But be warned that even the slightest contamination on adjacent darker wood will show clearly when you put a clear oil on over the top. It looks like you've spilt some white primer on it and not wiped it off properly - it's that obvious!



Thanks for the 'heads up' Rog. It looks like my new, unopened and unwrapped tin of Osmo Raw is going back to AxHQ on the 13th April. I'm going to a book signing event there to meet John Makepeace and get hold of an autographed copy of his Parnham House book - Rob
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Re: Sunburst Dining Table - WIP. *** NOW FINISHED ***

Postby RogerS » 16 Apr 2019, 07:58

That is truly a beautiful piece of furniture. I'm going to show SWMBO and see what she thinks. I'm fed up of 'joinery' stuff !
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Re: Sunburst Dining Table - WIP. *** NOW FINISHED ***

Postby Phil » 16 Apr 2019, 08:27

Robert wrote:Think its all been said above so I can only add the same thoughts.

Congratulations on a beautiful result!



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Re: Sunburst Dining Table - WIP. *** NOW FINISHED ***

Postby RogerM » 16 Apr 2019, 09:47

RogerS wrote:That is truly a beautiful piece of furniture. I'm going to show SWMBO and see what she thinks. I'm fed up of 'joinery' stuff !


Haha! Thanks Roger. Actually, my next project is a kitchen Island for my daughter and then I'm looking forward to some basic wood butchery replacing a deck!
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Re: Sunburst Dining Table - *** NOW FINISHED ***

Postby Mike G » 19 Apr 2019, 06:23

RogerM wrote:............So is my joinery that strong? Maybe, but could be that the strength can be attributed to this little beauty made in 50mm x 10mm steel by our local fabricators :)

DSC07734-1.jpg
.............


Repent, sinner!! :lol: :lol:

I had Custard of UKW with me a couple of days ago. We talked about your table for at least 5 minutes. He's obviously a pro furniture maker and does loads of veneering, and I can tell you that he is seriously impressed with this piece of work. As am I. He also told me that I've got to get into veneering, especially now I've a shed full of spectacular bog oak, so I'm going to go back through this thread frame by frame at some point and absorb the lessons.

Beautiful work, Roger. You should be very proud.
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Re: Sunburst Dining Table - *** NOW FINISHED ***

Postby Woodbloke » 19 Apr 2019, 14:43

Mike G wrote:....I've got to get into veneering...


Be prepared to spend a lot of money :D - Rob
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Re: Sunburst Dining Table - *** NOW FINISHED ***

Postby RogerS » 19 Apr 2019, 15:14

Mike G wrote:
RogerM wrote:............So is my joinery that strong? Maybe, but could be that the strength can be attributed to this little beauty made in 50mm x 10mm steel by our local fabricators :)

DSC07734-1.jpg
.............


Repent, sinner!! :lol: :lol:

I had Custard of UKW with me a couple of days ago. We talked about your table for at least 5 minutes. He's obviously a pro furniture maker and does loads of veneering, and I can tell you that he is seriously impressed with this piece of work. As am I. He also told me that I've got to get into veneering, especially now I've a shed full of spectacular bog oak, so I'm going to go back through this thread frame by frame at some point and absorb the lessons.

Beautiful work, Roger. You should be very proud.


Mike, if you do get into veneering then before you buy any, give me a shout as I have a fair bit. I do hope you will be going down the traditional hide glue route ;)
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Re: Sunburst Dining Table - *** NOW FINISHED ***

Postby Woodbloke » 19 Apr 2019, 17:26

RogerS wrote:
Mike, if you do get into veneering then before you buy any, give me a shout as I have a fair bit. I do hope you will be going down the traditional hide glue route ;)


I think what Mike and Custard were alluding too was laying some (or a lot) of the Bog Oak as veneers, in which case converting big slabs of said material into consistently thick 1.5mm veneers, joining them and and then laying them is a costly process. Gluing with hide veneer is as you say Rog, the least spendy way of sticking them to a substrate - Rob
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Re: Sunburst Dining Table - *** NOW FINISHED ***

Postby RogerM » 19 Apr 2019, 18:11

Mike G wrote:
RogerM wrote:............So is my joinery that strong? Maybe, but could be that the strength can be attributed to this little beauty made in 50mm x 10mm steel by our local fabricators :)

DSC07734-1.jpg
.............


Repent, sinner!! :lol: :lol:

I had Custard of UKW with me a couple of days ago. We talked about your table for at least 5 minutes. He's obviously a pro furniture maker and does loads of veneering, and I can tell you that he is seriously impressed with this piece of work. As am I. He also told me that I've got to get into veneering, especially now I've a shed full of spectacular bog oak, so I'm going to go back through this thread frame by frame at some point and absorb the lessons.

Beautiful work, Roger. You should be very proud.


Repent? Moi? No way - the Russians would be proud of my "boiler plate" solution! :lol: Thanks for the kind comments. Your own work is none too shabby either sir! :lol:

I'm in no way an experienced veneering exponent. This is only my 4th veneering project. My first was the back of a bookcase to make it look like T&G. The thread used to be on WH1 but was lost in the changeover to WH2, but can still be seen here on UKW. The second was a media unit a couple of years back, and the third was the set of practice pieces which morphed in to side tables I made to learn how to do a sunburst on something small. This was a time consuming but cheap project.

The veneering process can be "a bit spendy", but needn't be. I make my own bags from sheet poly from screwfix stuck together with "tacky tape", so the big bag I used for this project cost me under a fiver. Obviously you'll need a pump, but I've known people use an old pump from a fridge, and there are plenty of cheapies on Ebay.

My downfall came from talking to "Woodbloke" :lol: which is always an expensive experience. The biggest spend comes if you want to cut your own veneers. Assuming you already have a decent bandsaw, a drum sander (in my case a Jet 16-32) is a real game changer.
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Re: Sunburst Dining Table - *** NOW FINISHED ***

Postby Mike G » 19 Apr 2019, 19:10

Woodbloke wrote:......Be prepared to spend a lot of money :D - Rob


After all these years, Rob, you really don't know me very well!! :) :lol: :lol:
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Re: Sunburst Dining Table - *** NOW FINISHED ***

Postby Woodbloke » 19 Apr 2019, 20:22

RogerM wrote:My downfall came from talking to "Woodbloke" :lol: which is always an expensive experience. The biggest spend comes if you want to cut your own veneers. Assuming you already have a decent bandsaw, a drum sander (in my case a Jet 16-32) is a real game changer.

Always a mistake Rog, you should know better by now :lol: :lol:

Mike G wrote:
After all these years, Rob, you really don't know me very well!! :) :lol: :lol:


As I mentioned above Mike, if you're aiming to produce accurate 1.5mm thick Bog Oak veneers, you'll need to spend some folding. As Rog says above, you need a decent quality bandsaw that will saw veneers to the width of your p/t as this will generally be the widest that you can cut.
That's only half the story 'cos they won't be spot on thickness...a bit thicker here and a bit thinner in other places, plus you'll only have one side that's planed; the other will be off the bandsaw which then makes it bloody difficult to match, let alone glue down. To do a proper job, you must (no question about it) drum sand them to an even thickness of your choice (1.5>2mm).

You also then have to invest in a system to enable long edges to be shot in for joining.

Rog has gone down the 'economic' road to lay and glue them, but however you slices it, vacuum pressing is the way that most (not all) hobbyists lay them. Having used one in the trade, years ago I bought an AirPress kit and have recently upgraded it with a very expensive polyurethane bag. This is unquestionably the finest gear on the market for this sort of work and Peter Hoggard, the MD (his place is no more that 20 mins from me) has sold a huge amount of equipment to Bentley and RR.

Now that you've got this stash of Bog Oak secreted away in some dark corner :D, if you want to get the best out of it and make it go a lot further, then you need (as Custard rightly said) to get into veneering and there ain't no cheap and easy fix - Rob
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Re: Sunburst Dining Table - WIP. *** NOW FINISHED ***

Postby Mike G » 19 Apr 2019, 20:29

Chippendale did veneering. He didn't have vacuum bags and drum sanders.
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Re: Sunburst Dining Table - WIP. *** NOW FINISHED ***

Postby Mike G » 19 Apr 2019, 21:03

The motive for learning to veneer is that although I have literally tons of gorgeous oak, larger pieces of flaw-free timber are rare. A big table, a sideboard, or similar large piece of furniture would be a test in solid wood. To add to the argument, I also have a limited quantity of some gorgeous spalted sycamore, and that would go a lot further if I could veneer it. (Spalted sycamore panelling in a bog-oak frame........think of that.)

Anyway, we're diverting Roger's excellent thread. Sorry Roger. As you were......
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Re: Sunburst Dining Table - WIP. *** NOW FINISHED ***

Postby Woodbloke » 19 Apr 2019, 22:20

Mike G wrote:Chippendale did veneering. He didn't have vacuum bags and drum sanders.


Agreed, but what he did have were (I believe) very accurate frame saws to cut the veneers which of course takes the place of todays bandsaw and they were then laid with hide glue. Interestingly, Krenov mentions in one of his books that once a thick veneered surface has been laid, it can be treated as a 'solid' wood surface ie; planed and sanded as normal. No doubt the Georgians then were able to use their hand tools effectively on a thickly veneered surface, even though they might not have been so uniform as todays veneers?

Mike G wrote:The motive for learning to veneer is that although I have literally tons of gorgeous oak, larger pieces of flaw-free timber are rare. A big table, a sideboard, or similar large piece of furniture would be a test in solid wood. To add to the argument, I also have a limited quantity of some gorgeous spalted sycamore, and that would go a lot further if I could veneer it. (Spalted sycamore panelling in a bog-oak frame........think of that.)

Anyway, we're diverting Roger's excellent thread. Sorry Roger. As you were......


And again, correct Mike. Large bits of flaw free timber are rare and if per chance you or I were able to lay our grubby mitts on some, they'd cost an arm and both legs. As an example, the very large, 2m long, 75mm thick chunk of Indian Rosewood I collared from Yandles the other day is full (and I do mean full) of defects but with careful sawing and slicing it up into veneers there's probably a few decentish projects inside.

With the spalted sycamore, it definitely sounds as if converting it into 2mm veneers is the way forward, always of course, leaving enough for frameworks and lippings (if needed). The combination of Bog Oak and spalted sycamore sounds enticing...

Finally yes, we are diverting from Rog's excellent thread on his table, so apologies.

I wonder if a new thread could be started to discuss the topic further? - Rob
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Re: Sunburst Dining Table - *** NOW FINISHED ***

Postby Jimmy Mack » 10 Oct 2019, 11:36

RogerM wrote:So the final decision is Osmo Raw on the maple, followed by the Osmo recommendation of 4 thin coats of Clear Top Oil (Satin). Not only should this be durable, but it will keep the maple pale, and in the event of any marks in future it can be patched easily, unlike a resin or lacquered finish.



Hi Roger :)

I thought I'd ask how your table is getting on, in particular how the finish is performing, now a little time, UV and vino has been passed across it.

I'd be particularly interested to hear how the Maple has mellowed with the Osmo RAW, if so? Has it kept it's light tone? Has it 'yellowed' much? (as is often common with an oil). Is the piece near a window? ( re: UV)

I'm a few weeks off, but asking as I'm considering using a combination of Osmo on my Games Table, specifically the Osmo RAW on the Ripple Sycamore (ACER) and a standard Osmo on the Burr Oak. In the past I've used water bourne OSMO UV Wax, which has been fantastic at keeping the Sycamore white, tho this will look terrible on the Oak and be too tricky to separate finish.

Cheers,

Jim
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Re: Sunburst Dining Table - WIP. *** NOW FINISHED ***

Postby RogerM » 11 Oct 2019, 09:53

Hi Jim - It's wearing fine. I'm really not too precious about normal spillages. So long as they are wiped off at the end of a meal then there is no mark. I did however draw the line when my wife started making mixed fruit marmalade and started scooping the pips out of piping hot grapefruit, oranges and lemons and spilling it. It's almost neat hot citric acid which will even etch granite, and I objected vociferously and got her to shift it to the worktop!

It's difficult to say whether it has darkened at all as we live with it every day so won't notice. It's possible that it is marginally "creamier" than when it was first finished but I wouldn't describe it as "yellow". It is in a bright corner, and during the summer gets early morning sun, then about an hour of sun around midday through the velux windows, and again in late afternoon during the summer. However, when I compare it with the underside of the table which obviously gets no sun at all I cannot see a difference.

I'll dig out an offcut of the BEM veneer, freshen the surface and re-treat it and then compare it with the finished table. It'll be interesting to see how big a difference there is.
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