Cutting Veneer

[Stuart]

I’m wondering if a scroll saw will be any use in cutting ‘flowing’ shapes in commercial veneer (0.6mm ish) without undue splintering.

Happy to sandwich and use fine blades but wondering if anyone has any experience before I consider purchase .

 

[PAC1]

I have not tried but I am doubtful. The issue being how you keep your sandwich together without using some heavy thick top layer and then how slowly would you be cutting. Masking tape might work if you cover the veneer where you plan to cut with well stuck masking tape. Alternatively hide glue the pattern on cut out stick the veneer as needed and then wash off the hide glue and pattern with water. I believe most marquetry is done using knives (scalpels).

 

[AJB Temple]

I agree with PAC1. When I used to do inlays for guitars, I had access to a scroll saw with ultra fine blade. Works fine on things like abalone and mother of pearl, but with veneer there is almost always a short grain section that will break even if sandwiched or stuck to tissue paper. That said, I was doing fiddly little pieces for inlays and the veneers were quite thin. I used X-acto modelling knives at the time.

 

[RogerS]

Even with a proper cutting steel edge pressed down very hard onto the veneer and a new blade in a scalpel you can still get breakout sometimes

 

[Malc2098]

I buy my 0.6mm veneers in a 2.4m ish roll. Some are more susceptible to splitting than others. I glue them to the substrate that they'll be fixed to before I cut or mill or rout their shapes. That seems to work for me. After they've been glued to something more stable, they seem to be able to be shaped with whatever tools are appropriate.

 

[Stuart]

Thanks Gents,

I’ve done lots of cutting with scalpel and straight edge but wanting to move more into curved work and even with templates I’m struggling to get the matching edge’s I’m after. Thought scrolling might work but sounds like I’d be chasing my tail.

Back to the cutting board!

 

[Lons]

Hi Stuart

I've tried cutting veneers on my Hegner with mixed results, mostly not successful, the only way it worked was to give the veneer a couple of coats of PVA but that caused it's own problems when finishing.

I've cut a lot of marquetry pictures, some quite complicated using surgical scalpels and a variety of blades, they're cheap to buy but for others who may read this and haven't tried it note the disposable plastic handles are dangerous, they snap so use stainless handles only.
The secret for tight joins in marquetry pictures is to make the cuts at a slight angle so when pushed together the edges overlap like a wedge and the joinss disappear. It works for normal applications as well with care.

It's probably teaching granny to suck eggs in which case I apologise in advance.

 

[StevieB]

A cheap laser cutter will cut veneers into all sorts of shapes no problem, although some may consider that cheating....... accurate to an insane degree.

 

[Lons]

A cheap laser cutter will cut veneers into all sorts of shapes no problem, although some may consider that cheating....... accurate to an insane degree.

I cut them regularly on my Creality Falcon2 20w Steve but the issue with lasers is that the edges are burned which shows on the joins and if you sand it off you alter the fit. There might well be a way around that and I'd love to know if there is.

 

[Blackswanwood]

I’ve played around at trying to do this to no avail for inlays. Stiffening/strengthening the veneer with PVA or sanding sealer (as mentioned by Bob) does help but then makes finishing more complicated.

I don’t think you can beat a sharp Swann Morton scalpel blade. I use mainly the no 10a blades but also the no 6 which seems better on burrs and complex grain.

 

[StevieB]

I cut them regularly on my Creality Falcon2 20w Steve but the issue with lasers is that the edges are burned which shows on the joins and if you sand it off you alter the fit. There might well be a way around that and I'd love to know if there is.

Generally a backing (front?) over the top of the veneer (masking tape or veneer tape), or sandwich it between sheets of thin card. Playing with the power of the laser can help, reducing to a bare minimum. Having said that, I have an 80w laser so upping the speed is also possible for me. I have also used 2 or 3 plys of veneer (scrap veneer from e-bay as a box of offcuts) with the good version in the middle of the stack can also help.

 

[Stuart]

I more than welcome the input from those with more experience than me so thank you. I guess it’s just more practice with the scalpel.

A laser isn’t happening. They really don’t interest me and in all honesty the prospect of having to learn all the computer crap that goes with it makes me feel depressed!

 

[Lons]

Thanks Stuart, that's interesting info. I don't use the laser a lot so don't get too much chance to experiment.

 

[Phil]

My veneer sheets (A4 size) are 0.5 to 0.6mm thick.

Cutting them on the scroll saw is frustrating with all the breakout.
I have also tried gluing 2 sheets together, cross grain - a recipe for serious warp!

 

[Yojevol]

My veneer sheets (A4 size) are 0.5 to 0.6mm thick.

Cutting them on the scroll saw is frustrating with all the breakout.
I have also tried gluing 2 sheets together, cross grain - a recipe for serious warp!

Do you want double thickness veneer? If so use a non water based glue. Usual method of cutting small pieces of veneer is with a scalpel.
Brian

 

[Phil]

Do you want double thickness veneer? If so use a non water based glue. Usual method of cutting small pieces of veneer is with a scalpel.
Brian

Thanks.
It was an experiment not to be repeated.
I do veneer pine for scroll cutting, enhances the pee-poor pine.
I did post a thread somewhere in the past.

Serviette 'Rings"

A fun project cutting some serviette rings for kids. (Grandson & Granddaughter) Some designs Templates cut from 3mm MDF First one a Dolphin . This one might be a doubtful starter, too many fragile cuts .

www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk

I bought a scalpel, sharp, very sharp! Do you know how it carves up flesh!

 

[Woodbloke]

A cheap laser cutter will cut veneers into all sorts of shapes no problem, although some may consider that cheating....... accurate to an insane degree.

You can always tell when veneers have been laser cut at there's a burn mark all round the cut outline - Rob

 

[Phil]

Rob, also 3mm MDF.
Bought a packet of hearts to paint for a project.
Depending on what you are doing, the burnt edge can be a feature.

 

[StevieB]

You can always tell when veneers have been laser cut at there's a burn mark all round the cut outline - Rob

There are multiple way to avoid or remove this if you have it, to leave it is just lazy, either in properly adjusting the laser cut so it does not occur, preparing your sample appropriately so it does not occur, or in failing to remove it through sanding if it does happen. It is not inevitable at all!

 

[Woodbloke]

There are multiple way to avoid or remove this if you have it, to leave it is just lazy, either in properly adjusting the laser cut so it does not occur, preparing your sample appropriately so it does not occur, or in failing to remove it through sanding if it does happen. It is not inevitable at all!

All of the commercially cut marquetry veneers I saw years (20++) ago when I was a pro' maker had these nasty burn marks round the outside of each bit so I guess the lasers have improved or it was sloppy work on the part of the firm that sent us the stuff - Rob

 

[Phil]

Here are some extracts from a Hegner user guide.

Cutting of thin material = short stroke length



Some other tips