Dr.Al
Old Oak
AndyT":22nqogm3 said:
I thought the same thing!
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Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!
Farm Boy Hit and Miss engine
- Thread starter Dalboy
- Start date
I thought the same thing!
I am just pleased that it came out right.
I have been going through the plans and checking that I have made everything but there are a few bits that need making like pins, the other jobs are some holes that need threading now that I have all the taps for those.
The only other major parts that need addressing are the two flywheels and fixings for them
I have been going through the plans and checking that I have made everything but there are a few bits that need making like pins, the other jobs are some holes that need threading now that I have all the taps for those.
The only other major parts that need addressing are the two flywheels and fixings for them
What with other jobs, not a lot of workshop time. But I have been able to apply some paint to the main body as well as get one of the flywheels set up for machining, more on that later when there is progress.
Anyway, the paint job it may not be everyone’s taste in colour.
It has got a top clear coat which is petrol resistant.
Anyway, the paint job it may not be everyone’s taste in colour.
It has got a top clear coat which is petrol resistant.
DaveL
Old Oak
Well I think the colour is just right.
Just about my dad's favourite colour, he painted my first bike that colour before I even saw it.[emoji3]
Just about my dad's favourite colour, he painted my first bike that colour before I even saw it.[emoji3]
Cabinetman
Old Oak
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- Lincolnshire Wolds + Massachusetts
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- Ian
Still don’t really know what it’s all about, but it really looks well made and very smart indeed.
Cabinetman":2fkh70fg said:
Me too. Compulsive viewing but way over my head.
Thank you guys.
Here is a video of some stationary engines of various designed. It is just a model of one of them look at the video I linked to, and it is similar to the first one with a water tank built on top. Quite often used on farms in their yards to run different items of farm machines. They are also used to run a generator unit or pump.
https://youtu.be/IUC5kqaAgks?si=d2zDOYEz1Q7x3oLa
Here is a video of some stationary engines of various designed. It is just a model of one of them look at the video I linked to, and it is similar to the first one with a water tank built on top. Quite often used on farms in their yards to run different items of farm machines. They are also used to run a generator unit or pump.
https://youtu.be/IUC5kqaAgks?si=d2zDOYEz1Q7x3oLa
SamQ aka Ah! Q!
Old Oak
Looking at the video, a lot of these type of stand-alone workhorses were referred to as "Lister engines" in the farming communities where I spent my formative years. Whether or not Lister actually produced them!.
Well after a short break from the Farm Boy what with looking after my wife after a week in hospital as well as doing the cooking and housework and trying to catch up with gardening, I have finally managed a couple of hours in the workshop even if it was only to make a collet for a 1/8" broach to cut the keyways in the two flywheels. As well as a very quick tidy up and sorting out a new Arbor press which the wife treated me too.
I should now be back with some progress. Photo of the press, but still need to slot the collet.
I should now be back with some progress. Photo of the press, but still need to slot the collet.
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Glad to see that you making progress Derek. i thought the other day we had not heard from you for a while
Blackswanwood
Old Oak
This flyer was in something I received by post today … it may be of interest Derek …
Cheers
Robert
Cheers
Robert
Derek, Hope the Wife continues well with her recovery, all the good intentions on the hobby front can take a significant decline in the priority stakes when family health hiccups hit.
The Warwickshire event has been a favourite day out for me in the past to marvel at the skills and patience demonstrated and a good source for all those obscure bits of stock and tools you may or may not know you needed.
Rather a long way for you to travel but maybe do-able if you could combine it with a trip to the Cotswolds family members. (Takes us about 75min from Ciren. Up the A429 Fosse way)
Press On with the good work! (sorry could not resist)
The Warwickshire event has been a favourite day out for me in the past to marvel at the skills and patience demonstrated and a good source for all those obscure bits of stock and tools you may or may not know you needed.
Rather a long way for you to travel but maybe do-able if you could combine it with a trip to the Cotswolds family members. (Takes us about 75min from Ciren. Up the A429 Fosse way)
Press On with the good work! (sorry could not resist)
Thank you, Robert yes I know about the show.
Thank you Chas she is on the mend so now I get a little more free time. I find that the money it cost to get there I could use to buy more tools or materials.
I did visit one when it was in London and enjoyed seeing all the fantastic models on display.
Thank you Chas she is on the mend so now I get a little more free time. I find that the money it cost to get there I could use to buy more tools or materials.
I did visit one when it was in London and enjoyed seeing all the fantastic models on display.
Back onto the Farm Boy with the beginning of turning the flywheels, these were done on a faceplate. Only one side on both of them the outer diameter is just a little over the final size so that once fully machining of the centre and the sides I will take the diameter to final size mounting it on an Arbor.
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I have managed to start on the second side of the fly wheels, bringing the diameter to 6" and cleaning the sides. I have started to bring the centre boss down to size as can be seen in the photos. The flywheels are cast iron and certainly make a mes when turning my hands were black just doing these few operations as it gets everywhere
Cabinetman
Old Oak
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Self lubricating though, I did a tiny amount of metalwork when I was at college and enjoyed machining the cast iron more than the steel or Aluminium.
No progress pictures, but I have been working on the fly wheels I am having to bore the centres out as I was not happy with the centre hole as well as making a matching plug of cast iron to fit the centre as well as making it a little longer than the hole depth as the boss needs to be slightly longer.
This will become clearer when I take some photos next
This will become clearer when I take some photos next
I have now sorted out the centre boss and extended one side as they are a little short.
I have now completed the main turning on these, with only the tapered turning on one side of each to do, and the holes drilled for the fixing flange to attach.
I also managed to form the keyway on both, which I was nervous about as the broach is only 1/8" wide, but it went a lot easier than I expected.
I have now completed the main turning on these, with only the tapered turning on one side of each to do, and the holes drilled for the fixing flange to attach.
I also managed to form the keyway on both, which I was nervous about as the broach is only 1/8" wide, but it went a lot easier than I expected.
If I thought I was back on track with my last post, it has only taken me since then to drill and tap 6 small holes. This was due to me going down with a severe chest infection and not fit to play with machines.
Hopefully (touch wood) I am now back on track.
So nearly finished the flywheels, just need to put a taper in the centre hole which will become clearer in the operation after that
Hopefully (touch wood) I am now back on track.
So nearly finished the flywheels, just need to put a taper in the centre hole which will become clearer in the operation after that
Back on the farm boy after a short break as I have been doing a write-up for the Model Engineers Workshop magazine and yet more work in the garden.
The flywheels needed a taper putting in the crankshaft hole and also a tapered fixing made to match. Going by the plans, the opening in the flywheel just cut into the three screw holes, which surprised me.
I mounted the flywheels on the faceplate and dialled them in before setting the angle and turning these. Both flywheels were done before turning the matching locking fixings. This meant that the cross slide was already set and both tapers matched.
Still need to drill the fixing holes and also two threaded holes to use if they need extracting from the flywheel in the future as well as a slot.
The flywheels needed a taper putting in the crankshaft hole and also a tapered fixing made to match. Going by the plans, the opening in the flywheel just cut into the three screw holes, which surprised me.
I mounted the flywheels on the faceplate and dialled them in before setting the angle and turning these. Both flywheels were done before turning the matching locking fixings. This meant that the cross slide was already set and both tapers matched.
Still need to drill the fixing holes and also two threaded holes to use if they need extracting from the flywheel in the future as well as a slot.
Managed to get the Fly wheel locking collars completed and could not resist a part dry fit with they in place.
I have been putting off cutting a test tube to complete the oiler for the engine. So I tried to use a glass tube cutter which failed, and it shattered, so a good clean up and vacuum got rid of the broken bits. Next I wrapped the tube in some masking tape (I have about ten tubes as that was the minimum I could get at the time) this was gently gripped in the lathe yet strong enough not to slip, a Dremel was used with a small diamond disk and a short section soon parted ways from the tube. This section was rubbed on some very fine wet and dry paper to get rid of any sharp edges (With the tablets I am on if a cut myself it takes forever to stop)
As most of the parts were already made from brass, the only other part was the control needle, which is from silver steel (tool steel depends on where you are in the world). This needed a point on one end and then cut to length and fixed into the top adjustment piece.
The complete oiler ready for the engine once completed as there are still bits that need making. Without measuring it I would say between 1 1/4″ to 1 1/2″ tall.
I have been putting off cutting a test tube to complete the oiler for the engine. So I tried to use a glass tube cutter which failed, and it shattered, so a good clean up and vacuum got rid of the broken bits. Next I wrapped the tube in some masking tape (I have about ten tubes as that was the minimum I could get at the time) this was gently gripped in the lathe yet strong enough not to slip, a Dremel was used with a small diamond disk and a short section soon parted ways from the tube. This section was rubbed on some very fine wet and dry paper to get rid of any sharp edges (With the tablets I am on if a cut myself it takes forever to stop)
As most of the parts were already made from brass, the only other part was the control needle, which is from silver steel (tool steel depends on where you are in the world). This needed a point on one end and then cut to length and fixed into the top adjustment piece.
The complete oiler ready for the engine once completed as there are still bits that need making. Without measuring it I would say between 1 1/4″ to 1 1/2″ tall.
Great to see some of these parts assembled. i’ve struggled to follow and understand some of the individual bits as you have been making them. Beginning to make sense to me now.
SamQ aka Ah! Q!
Old Oak
Well done on cutting the test tube!! We cut tubing nearly every day. We simply notched with a few file strokes, then snapped it. A quick polish in a Bunsen flame sorted the edges.
Test tubes are of different glass, as they have to withstand thermal shock of quite a magnitude. Their chemical constituents are different to tubing. Never heard of someone cutting them before.
Test tubes are of different glass, as they have to withstand thermal shock of quite a magnitude. Their chemical constituents are different to tubing. Never heard of someone cutting them before.
When I get to final assembly, I will leave off one of the flywheels so that you can see where a lot of the parts go.
With the lathe on a slow speed and the dremel held against the tool post it cut hm very easy, just needed to rub on the wet and dry. I did not think of trying to smooth the edges with a small blow torch.
Work has come to a halt at the moment my lathe decided to strip a gear so now having to wait 12 weeks for replacement parts (OK it was my fault it happened) I am however trying to assemble some of the parts which can be a little fiddly due to the size and my large fingers.
I will post when things progress
I will post when things progress
12 weeks!! Where is it coming from, Mars?
I know nowt about these things obviously but in todays market place even if it was made to measure 12 weeks seems a long time, that’s after Christmas
I know nowt about these things obviously but in todays market place even if it was made to measure 12 weeks seems a long time, that’s after Christmas
Dr.Al
Old Oak
What's the lathe & what's the part?
The only reason I ask is that I had it in mind that yours is one of the Sieg Chinese lathes. I've got an old Sieg SC2 (the shorter bed version of the SC3) in storage. One day I'll probably do something with it, but if it's the same as yours and you want to borrow a part while you wait for your new one, I'm quite happy to stick it in the post when I get back from Brittany.
Thank you for the offer. But for the time being, I can disconnect the travel and use the lathe by manually traversing the bed. I also have some milling to do as well as kept busy with other chores around the garden and house.
For interest, the lathe is a Warco WM280V
Dr.Al
Old Oak
Good that you can still keep going. That looks like a much more capable lathe than my old SC2 (and the parts I have are almost certainly not compatible with it).
Not done much lately. But I have made a start on a fuel tank. Turned the main body and ends which is a cylinder at the moment need to make a filler cap and fuel cut off outlet.
Tank sitting on two blocks which will become the supports
The supports cut from a larger piece which had some holes luckily the hole shown is machined out
Here I had machined out the bulk of what was not needed ready for some shaping.
After machining the curved section, they are now a lot shorter but still leaving enough room for an outlet from the tank.
By machining them instead of using solid blocks makes for fixing to base and tank a lot easier as well as lightening the appearance of them.
A test fit of one of the supports, not sure which will look better, the foot facing in or out. Facing in would give a little more room for the outlet if I need to work on it when it is complete.
Tank sitting on two blocks which will become the supports
The supports cut from a larger piece which had some holes luckily the hole shown is machined out
Here I had machined out the bulk of what was not needed ready for some shaping.
After machining the curved section, they are now a lot shorter but still leaving enough room for an outlet from the tank.
By machining them instead of using solid blocks makes for fixing to base and tank a lot easier as well as lightening the appearance of them.
A test fit of one of the supports, not sure which will look better, the foot facing in or out. Facing in would give a little more room for the outlet if I need to work on it when it is complete.
Cabinetman
Old Oak
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As always I am impressed. Foot out may be handy if you wanted to fasten it down?
Sorry I must have missed your post, securing it is not a problem either way. Yes I agree it is better access with them facing out.
Not been in the workshop much as sorting out my rear lights on the car as a Morrisons van decided to back into it outside the house.
More work on the Fuel tank. First a little late I managed to get both stand uprights completed all except the fixing holes. As well as the end cap fixing screws.
Onto the tank once again drilled the filler hole and fuel outlet this was threaded 1/4″ x40. Turned some brass for the outlet elbow and did the same method as I did for the carburettor elbow by milling at 45deg most of the way through heating and bending before silvers soldering.
Twisted the tank upside down to show the outlet pipe in position. I need to take apart to clean swarf out of the inside
