fuse
New Shoots
Anyone know of a standalone device that I can plug a 'dumb' vaccuum to that will activate with table and (ideally both at a time)mitre saws?
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Pto socket
- Thread starter fuse
- Start date
Dr.Al
Old Oak
Not exactly, but the radio controlled power sockets are quite good for this sort of thing. You can keep the remote control near the machine (or get a couple and keep one near each machine) and then start/stop easily by pressing a button next to the machine's power button.
Or, if you're an obsessive electronics engineer, you can design a custom bit of electronics to detect the current being drawn by the power tool and send the radio signals to the power socket when current is detected, like I did for my cordless tools: https://www.cgtk.co.uk/woodwork/powertools/cordlessvacuumstart
Or, if you're an obsessive electronics engineer, you can design a custom bit of electronics to detect the current being drawn by the power tool and send the radio signals to the power socket when current is detected, like I did for my cordless tools: https://www.cgtk.co.uk/woodwork/powertools/cordlessvacuumstart
SamQ aka Ah! Q!
Old Oak
Yes. Welcome, BTW.
If you Google "Slave socket" as a starting point, you will find Axminster - amongst others - 'do' them. The commercial ones can be expensive. second-hand ones? Mehh, be careful. Over-used ones (on too much inrush current) can have their innards burnt out; how can you tell? I bought two off a well-established member on here; no complaints.
If you want to go down the home-built route**, I seem to remember the late, great "9fingers" a.k.a. Bob Minchin published a few diagrams on here, including a test of a £25 'box' from the Strapping South American Lady.
Sam
**P.S. Al just leap-frogged me as I typed.
If you Google "Slave socket" as a starting point, you will find Axminster - amongst others - 'do' them. The commercial ones can be expensive. second-hand ones? Mehh, be careful. Over-used ones (on too much inrush current) can have their innards burnt out; how can you tell? I bought two off a well-established member on here; no complaints.
If you want to go down the home-built route**, I seem to remember the late, great "9fingers" a.k.a. Bob Minchin published a few diagrams on here, including a test of a £25 'box' from the Strapping South American Lady.
Sam
**P.S. Al just leap-frogged me as I typed.
fuse
New Shoots
Thanks
Cost would be a factor that led me to this train of thought originally
I alteady have a Sheppach extractor that disappointinly doesnt have such a featur.
its pretty low on capacity too.
Im thinking now it may be worth just getting a new workshop vac that has one built inS
had one about 20 yrs ago but dog hair unexpectedly weedled its way throuh the filter foam and strangled the motor
Edit sorry malc you got in there quicker than my one finger prod typing could cope with
Cost would be a factor that led me to this train of thought originally
I alteady have a Sheppach extractor that disappointinly doesnt have such a featur.
its pretty low on capacity too.
Im thinking now it may be worth just getting a new workshop vac that has one built inS
had one about 20 yrs ago but dog hair unexpectedly weedled its way throuh the filter foam and strangled the motor
Edit sorry malc you got in there quicker than my one finger prod typing could cope with
fuse
New Shoots
Ha!
Im now seeing Sams point -my table saw is 1800w- too much for quite a few pto equipped workshop vacs...
Im now seeing Sams point -my table saw is 1800w- too much for quite a few pto equipped workshop vacs...
Windows
Old Oak
Hue & Innr smart plugs are spec’d to be able to cope with more than 1800W if you want to activate with a remote. An Innr smart plug is about £15-£20 per plug depending on pack size (and you can plug in an extension/splitter). If you’re familiar with requirements of Hue or Zigbee or have their smart lights already, it’s a good option. There are simpler & cheaper options as described above.
Dr.Al
Old Oak
My bandsaw is similar. I use a Nilfisk Aero 26-21PC (if memory serves) with a cheap plastic cyclone thing on an MDF dust box. The PTO works fine on the thicknesser but not on the bandsaw so I just use the remote control socket.
I even use the remote control socket on the thicknesser now as I found that the vacuum cut off as soon as you press the stop button on the thicknesser. It works a lot better if you wait a few seconds before turning off the vacuum so that the last bits of dust are sucked up. My cordless tool vacuum starter does this automatically, but the PTO doesn't.
fuse
New Shoots
Found this
Pto sockets
But still not up to the loading of a vacuum and the saw
Or the alternative
16a
But then have to find adaptors to keep the 13a fused plugs in use
Pto sockets
But still not up to the loading of a vacuum and the saw
Or the alternative
16a
But then have to find adaptors to keep the 13a fused plugs in use
SamQ aka Ah! Q!
Old Oak
Those are the expensive ones I referred to above.
fuse
New Shoots
Sorry Sam I got sidetracked with the smart plug idea
With those I think Id just still forget to switch the vac on
With those I think Id just still forget to switch the vac on
I use a remote socket to switch on a relay that in turn switches on the extractor. I found , with the help of someone who knew what they were doing, that the remote sockets which were normally used to power low wattage domestic lights could not cope with the load of the extractor.
See here
https://www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/threads/camvac-remote-switch-problem-sorted-again.1920/
Alas Bob9f is no longer with us but there are other techie types around here that could help if you get stuck.
See here
https://www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/threads/camvac-remote-switch-problem-sorted-again.1920/
Alas Bob9f is no longer with us but there are other techie types around here that could help if you get stuck.
Steve Maskery
Old Oak
I can't help you with the electrics, but I can tell you the setup I had in my previous workshop.
My P/T was in a fixed position and my DX was usually connected to it. The DX was powered through a RC switchable socket. So I had my zapper on a bungee cord from the ceiling above the P/T. Then I could just reach up and grab it, but then it was out of the way. I could connect the DX to my drum sander without disconnecting it. It all worked to my complete satisfaction.
S
My P/T was in a fixed position and my DX was usually connected to it. The DX was powered through a RC switchable socket. So I had my zapper on a bungee cord from the ceiling above the P/T. Then I could just reach up and grab it, but then it was out of the way. I could connect the DX to my drum sander without disconnecting it. It all worked to my complete satisfaction.
S
DaveL
Old Oak
I suppose i should put my hand up to helping Andy to control his dust collector.
I set mine up using a relay to switch the motor, this was due to have a 3hp motor that would burn out the contacts in the remote control socket. A 3hp motor will sometimes run from a 13a socket but the start up current can be a spike of 25 to 30 amps. The setup I used has 2 mains leads on the collector, one supplying the motor via the relay and the other controlling the relay.
When I first set this up I used a remote control socket to control the relay, but I found the buttons on the remote ware out with constant use. I have changed over to a WiFi controlled socket. I was bought a Google mini speaker that I have in the workshop and turn the dust collector on by saying "hay Google dust on" which works well. Turning it off does require me to face the mini so Google can hear me over the noise of the dust collector.
I set mine up using a relay to switch the motor, this was due to have a 3hp motor that would burn out the contacts in the remote control socket. A 3hp motor will sometimes run from a 13a socket but the start up current can be a spike of 25 to 30 amps. The setup I used has 2 mains leads on the collector, one supplying the motor via the relay and the other controlling the relay.
When I first set this up I used a remote control socket to control the relay, but I found the buttons on the remote ware out with constant use. I have changed over to a WiFi controlled socket. I was bought a Google mini speaker that I have in the workshop and turn the dust collector on by saying "hay Google dust on" which works well. Turning it off does require me to face the mini so Google can hear me over the noise of the dust collector.
Malc2098
Sequoia
I hope I'm posting this on the correct thread.
I have just bought and fitted one of these. It's from a company called Tough Leads and it appears to have been designed just for the likes of some of us on here.
I have a 2hp iTech DX and I got fed up with leaning over to switch it on every time I used the BS, P/T or drum sander, then squeeze round to get on with the work. The DX is connected to a sole 16a radial from the workshop consumer unit. I fitted the remote unit to the DX this morning which was a bit of a squeeze to get all the new wiring in the box under the NVR switch, but after I worked out which terminal numbers on my switch related to the number the manufacturer used, it worked a dream. I have one remote fob hanging from the ceiling and another button stuck to the BS.
While there is power to the DX, all that needs to be done is to press the NVR 'on' button, then press a remote 'on'. After you press remote 'off' and the DX stops, there is still power to the NVR, so it hasn't shut down. So, I can carry on using the remote all day long. After finishing work, if you pull the plug from the wall or switch off at the consumer unit, all that needs to be done the next time is power the DX, press NVR 'on', then continue using the remote fob or button as many times as you need during that work period.
The point of this is that the DX retains its NVR switch. They also provide a unit that bypasses and removes the NVR switch, and for different amp ratings and connecting plugs.
The company have been very patient with me while corresponding with them, particularly about the connection numbering of different NVR switches, and I can certainly recommend this type of unit and this company.
I have just bought and fitted one of these. It's from a company called Tough Leads and it appears to have been designed just for the likes of some of us on here.
I have a 2hp iTech DX and I got fed up with leaning over to switch it on every time I used the BS, P/T or drum sander, then squeeze round to get on with the work. The DX is connected to a sole 16a radial from the workshop consumer unit. I fitted the remote unit to the DX this morning which was a bit of a squeeze to get all the new wiring in the box under the NVR switch, but after I worked out which terminal numbers on my switch related to the number the manufacturer used, it worked a dream. I have one remote fob hanging from the ceiling and another button stuck to the BS.
While there is power to the DX, all that needs to be done is to press the NVR 'on' button, then press a remote 'on'. After you press remote 'off' and the DX stops, there is still power to the NVR, so it hasn't shut down. So, I can carry on using the remote all day long. After finishing work, if you pull the plug from the wall or switch off at the consumer unit, all that needs to be done the next time is power the DX, press NVR 'on', then continue using the remote fob or button as many times as you need during that work period.
The point of this is that the DX retains its NVR switch. They also provide a unit that bypasses and removes the NVR switch, and for different amp ratings and connecting plugs.
The company have been very patient with me while corresponding with them, particularly about the connection numbering of different NVR switches, and I can certainly recommend this type of unit and this company.
Which ones do you use Dave?
I have these ones, power monitoring and WiFi, all over the house. Never looked at the rating but almost 3kW which seems good and beefy.
EIGHTREE Smart Plug, 13A WiFi... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0B712GY64?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
EIGHTREE Smart Plug, 13A WiFi... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0B712GY64?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share