TomTrees
Sapling
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2014
- Messages
- 316
- Reaction score
- 62
Hello folks, getting back at working on my old Startrite 275 again, as I've acquired some materials what will get the job done...
just about that is, as indeed there be some faffing involved as you would expect, lol.
Sorry didn't get a piccy of the skip, as it was a deep'un.
Now I've got plenty of perspex, which will just about do... well at least until I can find some Lexan, polycarbonate or PETG.
None the less, it'll provide me with a decent mock up for an overhead guard, and is a whole lot nicer to work than any other clear plastic I've used in the past.
Bonded to the stuff (with some tenacious silicone like goop) was this very nice aluminium box profile, which took ages to roll off with the help of a heat gun,
and yes my thumbs are indeed sore whilst typing this!, haha

Though can't complain, as I'm hoping this will indeed aid in saving them from a worse outcome.
To me, the stuff looks just the ticket, that is...once I get the two joined up using some nice angle iron inside,
which will indeed be a troublesome affair, but at least it's a plan, and I shall be plonking ahead with things soon.
So, you could say that's one component of this sliding fence sorted.
Ideally, I'd like some 10mm aluminium plate in-between the stock fence and the extrusion, for the sliding part
though seems I'll be making do with some Trespa material for that.

Difficult to explain, but it'll be a tight squeeze to get space for the slot, which will get bolted to the original fence, with either M8 or M10 fixings with low profile heads...
whilst also allowing smaller fixings to thread above and below the alu profile (the angle iron inside which will be tapped)
Whilst there's ample space for that at the minute...

It only leaves 10mm of lower fence projection....

whilst 20mm clearance looks a whole lot better to my eyes, when configured like so.

My question being, does 20mm provide enough space for use with an overhead guard?
I've been looking at all the HSE and BGHM, SUVA, and similar articles, though can find nothing in that regards.
Disclaimer, yes I believe the rules are that the height of the extrusion needs to be 15mm max height with the lower function,
and I can cross that bridge when I get to it.
p.s before someone suggests to use this approach instead...
There's still the issue of adjustment when the fence is at the high orientation,
i.e like in Roy's video for example

Whilst making a sensible, quick and straight forward ply or MDF box, with high and low functions like Steve's here, isn't viable either... as plywood/MDF and this damp shed aren't compatible, and sorting that out isn't possible for me.
(and I've only got two wee offcuts of this Trespa stuff BTW)
Thanks for reading
Tom
just about that is, as indeed there be some faffing involved as you would expect, lol.

Sorry didn't get a piccy of the skip, as it was a deep'un.
Now I've got plenty of perspex, which will just about do... well at least until I can find some Lexan, polycarbonate or PETG.
None the less, it'll provide me with a decent mock up for an overhead guard, and is a whole lot nicer to work than any other clear plastic I've used in the past.
Bonded to the stuff (with some tenacious silicone like goop) was this very nice aluminium box profile, which took ages to roll off with the help of a heat gun,
and yes my thumbs are indeed sore whilst typing this!, haha

Though can't complain, as I'm hoping this will indeed aid in saving them from a worse outcome.
To me, the stuff looks just the ticket, that is...once I get the two joined up using some nice angle iron inside,
which will indeed be a troublesome affair, but at least it's a plan, and I shall be plonking ahead with things soon.
So, you could say that's one component of this sliding fence sorted.
Ideally, I'd like some 10mm aluminium plate in-between the stock fence and the extrusion, for the sliding part
though seems I'll be making do with some Trespa material for that.

Difficult to explain, but it'll be a tight squeeze to get space for the slot, which will get bolted to the original fence, with either M8 or M10 fixings with low profile heads...
whilst also allowing smaller fixings to thread above and below the alu profile (the angle iron inside which will be tapped)
Whilst there's ample space for that at the minute...

It only leaves 10mm of lower fence projection....

whilst 20mm clearance looks a whole lot better to my eyes, when configured like so.

My question being, does 20mm provide enough space for use with an overhead guard?
I've been looking at all the HSE and BGHM, SUVA, and similar articles, though can find nothing in that regards.
Disclaimer, yes I believe the rules are that the height of the extrusion needs to be 15mm max height with the lower function,
and I can cross that bridge when I get to it.
p.s before someone suggests to use this approach instead...

There's still the issue of adjustment when the fence is at the high orientation,
i.e like in Roy's video for example

Whilst making a sensible, quick and straight forward ply or MDF box, with high and low functions like Steve's here, isn't viable either... as plywood/MDF and this damp shed aren't compatible, and sorting that out isn't possible for me.
(and I've only got two wee offcuts of this Trespa stuff BTW)
Thanks for reading
Tom
Last edited: