• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Stripped thread ..

RogerS

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And off to pastures new
...in a pattress. For a light switch and I've managed to strip one of the lugs. Removing the pattress is not an option. Scratching my head, this end. I nadgered it as I thought it was M4. Mmm...wonder if an M4 will go through the front plate and do I have one long enough

20241007_174831.jpg
 
Screwfix(and other suppliers) sell a tool to rethread damaged sockets.


M35 tool.JPG
 
Just to add to the above, if your box is old it may have a thread which is smaller than M3.5.
I found I had to buy M3.5 screws as well but apart from that the tool worked well, stopped me having to
remove the whole box.
 
As Jim mentioned, the standard thread for electrical accessories is M3.5. An M4 screw will fit through the holes in most faceplates, and if the lug is knackered beyond the ability of the tool above to re-thread, then tapping it as M4 and using one of those is often a viable fix. There are also exorbitantly expensive products on the market to rescue a lug which is completely gone, and some other nuclear options which will work (and not technically break the wiring regulations) but also have some future electrician think "who the hell did this?". I'll save those for if re-tapping in either size doesn't pan out.

So, first thing I'd try is re-tapping at M3.5 using that tool. If that doesn't work, tap it to M4 and try that. If neither works and you don't fancy spending silly money, report back and it's time to get creative.
 
Crush the lug with a mole wrench. It might buckle or it might just squidge the hole oval. Either way you should be able to cut enough of the right size thread for a screw to hold.
 
There are a few things you could do. I'd try coating front and back and filling the hole with JB Weld or epoxy then drilling and tapping again. Both those accept a tap well if you're careful. Solder can work in a similar way. You could also (carefully as it's brittle), enlarge the hole in the socket face and use a larger machine screw or even a self tapper. Use one of those slide over captive nut thingies the use on cars then a self tapper or even widen the hole a little more and shove in a plastic wall plug.
All botch jobs of course. :ROFLMAO: I'd replace the box but I realise that would be an issue at the minute.
 
You could also (carefully as it's brittle), enlarge the hole in the socket face and use a larger machine screw or even a self tapper.
You often don't need to enlarge the faceplate holes for an M4 screw.
 
U nuts?
Shame if you have to buy so many though
 
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