• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

WANTED Screw box and tap- wood

Presuming you may have seen the Carters whittling series on the matter, it's very good.
 
Thanks for that Tom, yes it was very good, this is just a quick job which is a means to an end, if I had time and I wasn’t selling all my possessions I probably would go down that route.
Cheers Ian
 
You've probably seen this already but:

www.axminstertools.com

Axminster Workshop Wood Threading Kit

Cut internal and external threads in wood. Each kit comprises a screw box with which to make the male thread and two matching taps; a starter and a bottom for the female thread. The starter tap is used as the name suggests but also the cut through...
www.axminstertools.com www.axminstertools.com
 
 
Thanks Tristan, I put the wrong words in on Axminster and didn’t find it lol.
I want something that’s going to work, which is why I asked on here. Axminster I trust so that’s probably going to be my go to.
Thanks Ian
 
I've got the ¾" version from Axi and it works well in the right timber so should be a safe bet
 
Just a thought. Why would you not use a metalwork tap and die set.
It is what I used for this
www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk

Wooden bolt in lignum vitae

After a number of abortive tries using beech dowel that just would not play ball I thought I should try a small piece of LV That is 16 mm with 2mm pitch. Any ideas why it has come out curved? Is it my technique with the die? It could not have come off the lathe like that.
www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk

And with a bit of practice I could cut a straight thread in lignum vitae for this.
IMG_20191201_152656168.jpeg
 
Out of interest what thread is that? I've used a UNC tap quite successfully for wooden fittings for the lathe headstock.
The thread box looks like it cuts with a wider crest and gullet than a metal die. Presumably that's to provide a bit more 'meat' to the thread.
Has anyone tried flooding the thread with CA then re-cutting once cured? Might help strengthen the thread in a softer timber
 
Tris said:
Out of interest what thread is that? I've used a UNC tap quite successfully for wooden fittings for the lathe headstock.
The thread box looks like it cuts with a wider crest and gullet than a metal die. Presumably that's to provide a bit more 'meat' to the thread.
Has anyone tried flooding the thread with CA then re-cutting once cured? Might help strengthen the thread in a softer timber
Click to expand...
Not at home at the moment Tris. I’ll check after the weekend and let you know.
 
UNC is probably not a good choice, as it doesn't have the web in the botttoms and rounding over in the tops of the thread that Whitworth has. Whit is a bit stronger for a given pitch circle and pitch, and the shape would suit wood better, methinks.

That said I took delivery of a 1/4" 20 UNC tap set last week, for a photography project, on the basis that the Chinese no nothing of Josiah W. and therefore a 'pointier' thread gives their UNC stuff somewhere to go and won't bind (it shouldn't anyway). Camera thread is _supposed_ to be Whitworth anyway, it's just that it's been ignored for probably seven decades or more. By the time I'd sourced what I wanted*, I'd already got fed up and tapped the hole in Whitworth form anyway - it seems fine so I'll left it at that.

E.

*Presto, Dormer or similar in a proper 3-tap set at a sensible price. I bought Presto - haven't used them yet but they look the business.
 
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This is getting way over my head lol!!
Another question, it says to soak the wood in oil before cutting the male thread, how about I dry out the wood in the oven ( v lightly for a few hours ) then leave it to soak in Coconut oil for a whhile to impregnate itself, my feeling is that the dry wood would reinvorate itself and make the cutting much easier.
Ian
 
AndyP said:
Just a thought. Why would you not use a metalwork tap and die set.
It is what I used for this
www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk

Wooden bolt in lignum vitae

After a number of abortive tries using beech dowel that just would not play ball I thought I should try a small piece of LV That is 16 mm with 2mm pitch. Any ideas why it has come out curved? Is it my technique with the die? It could not have come off the lathe like that.
www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk

And with a bit of practice I could cut a straight thread in lignum vitae for this.
View attachment 26901
Click to expand...
That’s very cool indeed! Love that lignum vitae, but I want to cut a 1 1/2” vice threaded rod. So wood is the only practical option.
 
Cabinetman said:
This is getting way over my head lol!!
Another question, it says to soak the wood in oil before cutting the male thread, how about I dry out the wood in the oven ( v lightly for a few hours ) then leave it to soak in Coconut oil for a whhile to impregnate itself, my feeling is that the dry wood would reinvorate itself and make the cutting much easier.
Ian
Click to expand...
The last thing I cut was a tension adjuster for a spinning wheel I restored and the wood was a flowering cherry species I had lying about. The thread cut well without any pre-soaking and it was finished with some candle wax to prevent it from binding. Will try to get a couple of pics
 
I've experimented a bit with cutting threads in wood.
I have one of the ubiquitous Chinese sets as linked to above, but only in the 3/4" size. It's fine and does seem to be about the only sort now available. Old ones often go for similar prices. The large sizes are harder to find.
If you buy the Axi kit do be sure to hone the cutter fairly often. It sharpens like a carver's v-tool. It's important to keep the angle of the cutting edge. Seen from the side, the top edges precede the inner V. The angle is something like 60 degrees from horizontal. This means that when cutting the two sides of the groove are freed before the gullet is cut.

I've never needed to oil the wood first but a lot depends on what species you are using and I know people who say to always presoak, with thinned down linseed oil and cut while the oil is wet. Good choices of wood include beech, holly and indeterminate "brown tropical hardwood."
 
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Here it is, worth noting that that is as close to a shoulder as you can thread if that is important to the vice thread


171725505974312067401924925726.jpg17172551774535088149198394728250.jpg
 
Thanks, I should be ok as I am using it on a leg vice so won’t need to go within 2” of the shoulder.
Thats an interesting looking thing, it’s a bit like a Marlingspike but with a thread.
Ian
 
If you do need to thread closer to a shoulder, once the thread is established you can remove the cover from the thread box.
 
Ian,
I have an Axminster 1 1/2 inch set which you would be welcome to borrow. Just PM me with a (UK) address and I will send it on.
I have had success cutting threads in apple and cherry. I was less successful with ash where there was a lot of chipping although the results were workable but not very pretty.
Cheers
David
 
Paisawood said:
Ian,
I have an Axminster 1 1/2 inch set which you would be welcome to borrow. Just PM me with a (UK) address and I will send it on.
I have had success cutting threads in apple and cherry. I was less successful with ash where there was a lot of chipping although the results were workable but not very pretty.
Cheers
David
Click to expand...
You Sir are a total Gentleman, I shall have to prepare the wood for the nut and turn the screw shaft, then I Certainly will do that. One or two other jobs first but should be in 3-4 weeks. I’m pondering using Beech impregnated with Coconut oil.
Cheers Ian
 
Tris said:
Out of interest what thread is that? I've used a UNC tap quite successfully for wooden fittings for the lathe headstock.
The thread box looks like it cuts with a wider crest and gullet than a metal die. Presumably that's to provide a bit more 'meat' to the thread.
Has anyone tried flooding the thread with CA then re-cutting once cured? Might help strengthen the thread in a softer timber
Click to expand...
Tris, sorry just remembered.
the thread on the nutcracker was M16. I’ve no idea what the 2 signifies.
 

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Thanks Andy, think 2.0 is the thread pitch in mm
 
I’ve a pair of Sargeants wood screw sets, ( came from my late fathers workshop) 1/2” and i’d guess 1” labels gone. Yours for the cost of the postage if of any interest. Both used but not much by look of them.
 

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Artiglio said:
I’ve a pair of Sargeants wood screw sets, ( came from my late fathers workshop) 1/2” and i’d guess 1” labels gone. Yours for the cost of the postage if of any interest. Both used but not much by look of them.
Click to expand...
That’s a very kind offer thank you, but I doubt I would ever use them and that would deprive somebody else of their use.
But thank you again. Ian
 
I have been looking at available wood for the threaded bar, I have some Beech and then I realised that the D end dining table of my Mums is sat waiting to be disposed of, absolutely no one wants a sold Mahogany beautiful table anymore, terrible shame but it’s going to be cut up for it’s timber, one of the turned legs (with 3 sweeping arms) will I think be turned down for the threaded bar - a memory of some happy times every time I use it.
Quick question would Mahogany be suitable for threading?
Ian
 
Cabinetman said:
I have been looking at available wood for the threaded bar, I have some Beech and then I realised that the D end dining table of my Mums is sat waiting to be disposed of, absolutely no one wants a sold Mahogany beautiful table anymore, terrible shame but it’s going to be cut up for it’s timber, one of the turned legs (with 3 sweeping arms) will I think be turned down for the threaded bar - a memory of some happy times every time I use it.
Quick question would Mahogany be suitable for threading?
Ian
Click to expand...
Almost certainly yes. Close grained, reasonably strong, leaves a lovely smooth surface when carved. It may feel like a shame for you to use it for a humble purpose but it's much better than someone else simply dumping or burning it.
 
Artiglio said:
Okey dokey, same here, been sat collecting dust for 14 years, i’ll never use them. Same offer to anyone else that may find a use.
Click to expand...
Hello Artiglio. I have been on the lookout for screw boxes/thread cutter for a little while to use in green furniture making. I'm not so keen on the ones at Axminster. I know they get good reviews but not keen on the plastic. So, if you still have yours and the offer is still open then I'd love to take yours off your hands. Thanks.
 
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