sunnybob wrote: But I still say that frame is never going to work harden, let alone crack.
I would agree with this, I've never seen a noticeably bent bandsaw frame nor one that was broken (or at least, one that wasn't dropped from height) either made from welded steel or cast iron. After 200 years or so of bandsaw technology, you'd think there would at least be one case if it was a design flaw.
Likewise, with "flat spots" on the band wheels, has anyone actually ever seen this happen themselves? With the blade bearing on half the wheels and the tyres being quite stout I can't really see it ever being a big issue in the short term. I've definitely seen (and I'm sure some of you have also) bandsaws that have been abandoned with a tensioned blade for many years with no use and they get put into service without any "flat spot" issues.
Just those "engineer" types with too much time to bloody think about problems that are absolutely non-consequential, same with those daft "Carter" bandsaw guides, they cost a small fortune and they will not improve the cut of the machine, extend the life of your blades, or make you a magical woodworking wizard once installed despite claims. I've had the good fortune to have used pretty much all kinds of bandsaws from the little Burgess three-wheelers, to the middle of the line Startrite 352s, all the way up to the big Stenner re-sawing bandsaws, the thing that made the biggest difference across the board to the cut quality was how sharp your blade was, with tooth geometry and feed rate coming in close behind, differing types of blade guides make very little to no difference, a sharp blade is absolutely key.
Rant over...