I wanted to make this moulding to go on top of the landing cupboard I made and described elsewhere. The original in the photo is on a Georgian cupboard (horribly mucked about with from a finishing perspective).
Ignoring hand planes, the two most obvious ways is either using a spindle moulder or a 'composite' made from several passes on a router table with different cutters. The third option using a table saw and multiple passes is another option but I'm not covering that approach here.
Using a spindle-moulder
At 100mm high, it would need two cutters on my spindle moulder (expensive) Plus there is a limit to the projection you can get with the cutter blanks and with the angle of the moulding, simply not possible unless you either (a) have a good tilting spindle moulder (I don't) or (B) competent to faff around with a jig to put the wood at the appropriate angle. (I've never had a lot of success with this method as setting it up to run true and parallel I find tricky. Especially on a long 1.8m length. Even the minutest of angle errors will be magnified by the end.
Using a router table
But using a router in a table is an option. How I made my router table is here.
OK..a rough sketch taking measurements from the original...
suggests that it can be made using two pieces of 30mm thick timber glued together where the arrow is pointing, and some cutters. A quick look through Wealden's website suggested that a Flat Roman cutter would take care of the top part of the moulding.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2kxZyrE]
Ran an odd bit of 30 x 30mm through and offered it up to the original and it's pretty much a perfect match.
The bottom mould is almost a 15mm radius and so this cutter will work.
Testing time over, it's time to make the 'real thing'. When I come to make the final top mould, I've extended it by 30mm so that I can fix the bottom moulding to it.
Next, set up the router table ...adding the fence, some extraction, a feather board to keep the wood tight against the fence and some support for the far end and then press into service my Comatic Baby power feeder.
It was then that I realised the tyres on the Comatic had hardened up since I last used it (three years ago) So it's handfeed only. I like to take things steady and not try and hog it all out in one go.
First pass
Second pass
Final pass
I need to plan for glueing the two mouldings together. So Domino time. I have a 'standard' for marking up..arrows for the reference side to put the Domino machine on when making the cut, a square to delineate if the slots are Normal width or not. And a letter to tell me easily which ends go together. A sort of fail safe. And it will be easier making the Domino slots on the lower moulding when it's till in the 'square' and not moulded.
So I started making the cut on the lower moulding and got about halfway through the process and then realised that I failed on the 5P's...I wasn't sure whether the cutter would expose the Domino slots once I'd machined to the design depth. So it was time to glue the two halves together overnight. You can see the partial cut I've made on the bottom moulding if you look closely enough.
Of course, this cock-up had a knock-on effect because it left me with only a tiny 5mm piece of flat on the bottom which meant that the workpiece could easily rock as I hand fed it through. Which I soon discovered.
Another advantage of only making light cuts as it gives you the opportunity to find a better way to do something before it is too late.
My tried and tested way is to make a 'tunnel' that holds the timber firmly against the fence and also stops it rocking.
One of the joys of having a replaceable top to the assembly/workbench is that you're not fussed about screwing something down onto it.
And here we have it.
Some knotting applied and ready to be painted.
And fixed in position.