It is currently 28 Mar 2024, 17:49
Mike G wrote:That's a neat way of being consistent, but it doesn't produce a 45 degree chamfer. The plane is at 45 degrees before you take the first stroke, but with each stroke you take away your reference and the angle reduces. (/pedant mode).
Blackswanwood wrote:Mike G wrote:That's a neat way of being consistent, but it doesn't produce a 45 degree chamfer. The plane is at 45 degrees before you take the first stroke, but with each stroke you take away your reference and the angle reduces. (/pedant mode).
Good point - so I need to reduce the distance to the edge by the depth of the chamfer to get it spot on.
Thanks
droogs wrote:I just run lines down the sides 3mm from the edge and plane to them
AJB Temple wrote:Trim routers were invented for a reason. Just sayin'.
TrimTheKing wrote:
No! If you do that from the start you will end up with a deeper chamfer by the time you get to 45 deg (I think...).
Technically what you need to do is move the workpiece towards the reference edge by the thickness of a shaving after every pass.
Obviously you're not going to do that so I'd just go by eye like in the olden days. Bit of practice/muscle memory and you'll have them right every time.
PAC1 wrote:Can I ask Robert, why it needs to be that accurate? I am intrigued to know. For me usually if it looks right it is right.
AJB Temple wrote:Trim routers were invented for a reason. Just sayin'.
johnward wrote:
This afternoon I have put chamfers on my tapered Garden Table legs using the 'by eye' method, 10 passes per chamfer. They look OK, maybe not a dead 45 degrees but close enough.
Thinking about it, Robert's method wouldn't work on a chamfer-on-a-taper situation.
John
TomTrees wrote:Matt Estlea demonstrated using a marking gauge which I hadn't seen done before.
The idea of planing to the line, be it knife or pencil, seems like the most sensible approach for someone wanting to use a smoother, and not something else.
AndyT wrote:TomTrees wrote:Matt Estlea demonstrated using a marking gauge which I hadn't seen done before.
The idea of planing to the line, be it knife or pencil, seems like the most sensible approach for someone wanting to use a smoother, and not something else.
How did that work then? Or was it a pencil gauge? A marking gauge would leave a cut line below the finished surface of the chamfer. I suppose you could carry planing on until the lines disappear but you'd end up with a chamfer wider than you had marked.
PAC1 wrote:droogs wrote:I just run lines down the sides 3mm from the edge and plane to them
Although 3mm is a lot. I am usually no more than 2mm
Can I ask Robert, why it needs to be that accurate? I am intrigued to know. For me usually if it looks right it is right.
TomTrees wrote:Matt used a wheel gauge, so I suppose he marked them very lightly.
I reckon he wouldn't have suggested the idea if it didn't work well for his style work+close up filming .
Tom
AJB Temple wrote:Trim routers were invented for a reason. Just sayin'.
TomTrees wrote:Pencil gauge it is for sure!
Seems I may need to take a chunk out my gauge block.
Tom
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