It is currently 28 Mar 2024, 09:40
Sheffield Tony wrote:I was doing an unusual job at the weekend. Making a bat roost. No, not for a real bat, but for a copper one from Michael Kusz at the excellent Graculus sculptures.
Anyway, to get a branch of ash to that stripped, driftwood look I picked up RXH's drawknife. I've used it before, of course, but It occurred to me that I haven't reported back yet
I will admit I've made two slight adjustments. One is to reduce the bevel angle a little, the other, to bend the handles down slightly (viewed witb the bevel up) so that the angle of the handles bisects he bevel angle - this way the drawknife is held at the same angle when used bevel up (for light planing cuts) or bevel down. This was one of the adjustments Mike Abbot had Ray Iles make to his drawknife design. Tweaking a tool to suit your tastes was - should be - quite normal.
Anyway - it is very good in use. The heat treatment must have gone well, it takes - and keeps - a very fine edge. Really a pleasure to use. Thanks again Richard if you are still reading !
I must try to finish my scorp ...
Sheffield Tony wrote:As it happens, I was using it quite a lot today at a green woodworkers gathering.
To adjust the handles, not knowing what the temper would be like away from the cutting edge, I confess I tapped off the handles. Then I heated it at the bend to a blue colour so I knew I could bend it without breaking anything. To be sure not to affect the temper of the cutting edge, I clamped a big G clamp between the bit I heated and the cutting edge as a heatsink. Then just a matter of slipping a tube over the tangs and tweaking them down by 10-15 degrees. I popped the handles back with a smear of epoxy for good measure.
The size is pretty ideal for most purposes. Today I was working willow, from which you can take really thick cuts. Quite a few knots which presented no problem. Testing the edge with a thumbnail after a day of use, no sign of chipping and still nicely sharp.
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