It is currently 28 Mar 2024, 15:22
Woodbloke wrote:Practice, practice and more practice. Or make it easy for yourself and knock up one of these. I've made dozens (a few ) of these things over the decades and this one is light years ahead of any thing else. Once you see how easy it is to use, you can sort out dead square sides and ends, then use the board to shoot the other edge square and true - Rob
Dr.Al wrote:Woodbloke wrote:Practice, practice and more practice. Or make it easy for yourself and knock up one of these. I've made dozens (a few ) of these things over the decades and this one is light years ahead of any thing else. Once you see how easy it is to use, you can sort out dead square sides and ends, then use the board to shoot the other edge square and true - Rob
Interestingly, I've been using my shooting board all afternoon for getting square ends and for cutting some mitres. It never occurred to me to use it for the long edges !
novocaine wrote:I never plane 2 at once i find it easier to do one at a time and use the first to dictate the second.
MattS wrote:Watched that shooting board video. A remarkably simple construction but looked very effective!
Mike G wrote:By the time you changed your cutter, Bob, let alone fitted your offset fence and adjusted the fence to suit, I've edge-planed all the boards for a box. And your set-up references the cut face you are working on, so unless that is correct, the resulting edge won't be correct. Having said that, it is a useful technique which I've used myself in the past.
Woodbloke wrote:Dr.Al wrote:Woodbloke wrote:Practice, practice and more practice. Or make it easy for yourself and knock up one of these. I've made dozens (a few ) of these things over the decades and this one is light years ahead of any thing else. Once you see how easy it is to use, you can sort out dead square sides and ends, then use the board to shoot the other edge square and true - Rob
Interestingly, I've been using my shooting board all afternoon for getting square ends and for cutting some mitres. It never occurred to me to use it for the long edges !
You can use that shooting board for almost everything. If you check out the Jewellery Box I did recently, all the material was planed to size on my shooter. The way I do each piece is as follows, assuming that the material has been planed to a constant thickness:
Shoot one edge, mark as the datum when true and square, mark as face edge. Shoot one end dead square, flip the wood over keep the face edge against the fence; shoot the other end dead square. Repeat on the second piece of wood if say, it's a long side.
Now you have two bits of wood which are square, but may not be exactly the same length. Place them both, one atop the other against the fence with the ends hard up against it, then use your fingertips at the other end to see which requires a few shavings off to bring each to the same length.
When your fingertips can't feel a 'ridge' 'twixt one and the other, the boards are exactly the same length. Repeat the process for planing the opposite side(s) - Rob
Mike G wrote:Yep, Rob's covered it. For thin boards, using either a large bench hook as a shooting board (running the plane along the bench top), or a purpose made shooting board, is the best way of ensuring you end up with a square edge. Wax the sole and the side of the plane before you start........it makes an enormous difference.
However, planing the edges of boards in a vice is just one of those skills you are going to need, and there is absolutely no harm in converting an entire piece of 6x1 pine into shavings just to help develop your skills. It isn't easy. Even now I have to check for squareness more often than I'd like. Most people have a tendency to take too much off the side nearest them..........and knowing this, I have a tendency to over-compensate, and take too much off the far side.
Counter-intuitively, a slightly cambered blade is really useful for producing a square edge. It allows you to correct a lean one way or the other by simply moving the plane over to cut with one edge of the blade or the other.
TrimTheKing wrote:This really isn’t difficult with a cambered blade and a little know how. Where you start/stop your shavings can make a massive difference. Your technique sounds good (thumb on top of plane and fingers underneath against the board) but it sounds like your blade needs a little work which is where the chambering helps. It enables you to keep the sole flat on the board and take a shaving from one edge without adjusting the art of the blade.
I’ve got links to a few video sources I used for exactly this when I was starting out, I’ll try and find them.
Dr.Al wrote:
How do you cope with long and thin bits of wood? Planing the two long edges of something that is (say) 15 mm × 80 mm × 500 mm wouldn't be practical on my shooting board
I'd be interested to see those. Adding a camber to the blade seems to be something I need to do!
AndyT wrote:Well, that's interesting.
I'm on the side of the cambered blades, but we all know that Rob is definitely capable of planing edges square when he needs to. So once again, in the world of woodworking, there are different ways of achieving the same goal. Take your pick!
TrimTheKing wrote:Rob/Doc - I’m going to go against your view here because I use a LV BU Jack and BU Block and I assure you that I use a camber on the blades in both with great success, for flat planing, mitres and on the shooting board...
The camber, as I explained earlier, is so shallow that it doesn’t cause an issue in either of those situations, we’re talking in the region of a couple of thou.
Don’t get too hung up on it, the camber is just there to knock the corners off the blade and allow you to take part width shavings on .5” boards if required.
Dr.Al wrote:TrimTheKing wrote:Rob/Doc - I’m going to go against your view here because I use a LV BU Jack and BU Block and I assure you that I use a camber on the blades in both with great success, for flat planing, mitres and on the shooting board...
The camber, as I explained earlier, is so shallow that it doesn’t cause an issue in either of those situations, we’re talking in the region of a couple of thou.
Don’t get too hung up on it, the camber is just there to knock the corners off the blade and allow you to take part width shavings on .5” boards if required.
Maybe I'm getting confused about two different people's definition of a camber (what you're describing sounds like what I do anyway to get rid of sharp corners that might make tracks when face planing), but if the camber is only a couple of thou, how would I be able to do what Mike G describes and move the plane side to side to adjust the angle of the edge?
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests