It is currently 29 Mar 2024, 00:39
Lurker wrote:First, I know nothing about cutting dovetails and have minimal experience, so my thoughts are really aimed at experts looking in.
I can’t really get my head around why a fine kerf (thus high tpi) is needed so long as you cut to a line and the kerf is on the waste side.
I have a lovely high tpi saw with a thin blade but the results would be more likely to wander in my hands. However using a thicker very old 10 tpi backsaw I can cut a pretty good (straight) rip line.
Dr.Al wrote:It's definitely the best I've ever done, but there are still gaps and I spent a very, very long time tweaking it with a file before I managed to get it to go together.
Lurker wrote:First, I know nothing about cutting dovetails and have minimal experience, so my thoughts are really aimed at experts looking in.
I can’t really get my head around why a fine kerf (thus high tpi) is needed so long as you cut to a line and the kerf is on the waste side.
I have a lovely high tpi saw with a thin blade but the results would be more likely to wander in my hands. However using a thicker very old 10 tpi backsaw I can cut a pretty good (straight) rip line.
Woodbloke wrote:Just for starters, accuracy in sawing depends to a large extent on your stance. Don't stand 'square on' to the bench but sideways to it; ie your tootsies should be at 90deg (or so). This means that your sawing arm will swing back past your carcass so that most of the blade can be used. Try and position your eyes directly over the top of blade and of course the line(s) that you're attempting to saw down should be dead vertical - Rob
AJB Temple wrote:Having got the T shirt on this many years ago:
Agree with advice re stance
Probably you are not holding the saw level (some cuts too deep, some too shallow) - be super careful not to rush the end cuts
You are getting off line at the end of cuts. Twisting or forcing the saw probably, and probably rushing. Relax consciously.
I wonder actually if you are holding the work a bit too high for your size. It tends to create tension and impair vision and engender fatigue. I am quite all and I like to have the work quite low set for this kind of thing, so I am almost standing over it.
I am a pianist by main hobby and tension is the enemy of accuracy both in piano playing and sawing. Relax. Keep reminding yourself. As difficulty goes up, so does tension usually.
johnward wrote:Practice, Practice, Practice. Keep the blade square to the wood when cutting the tails and cut tight to the waste side of the knife line when cutting the pins. Oh, and did I mention ''Practice''.
John''
Malc2098 wrote:I've got two things to add — WYLIWYG
(If you say it often enough you stop giggling)
Actually I designed a highway feature called this that has saved bikers' lives (and got an international Road Safety Award for it, and it's used all over the world now.)
But what it means is Where You Look Is Where You Go! So if you are looking down your line, you will follow that path. If you aren't, then you won't.
The other thing is what my old woodwork teacher taught me back in the 60s. Keep the saw, your handgrip, your wrist, your elbow and your shoulder all in line, and the cut will be straight down.
Sheffield Tony wrote:Dr.Al wrote:It's definitely the best I've ever done, but there are still gaps and I spent a very, very long time tweaking it with a file before I managed to get it to go together.
Wrong tool. Ideally the mating surfaces want to be flat. They will still look tight if they are a bit concave. If they are a bit convex - easy to accomplish with a file - the gaps will be apparent.
Saw right first time is the goal. Cut close and pare using a chisel if you can't.
AndyT wrote:First off, you are doing the right thing by setting yourself on lots of repetitions. Keep on doing that, and leave all the variations out of it.
Variations include
- type of saw
- species of wood
- thickness of wood
- height of wood in vice.
AndyT wrote:
I'd suggest that you start making some whole dovetails.
AndyT wrote:
For me, I'd say that a western saw suits my normal way of marking out and although I did buy a little Japanese saw back in the 90s I rarely use it now.
The thing I found that gave me the most improvement was to start the cut by looking at the end of the work, and with the handle of the saw raised, so that the cut starts on the far side. You can line it up before you cut down much at all.
When you have the first mm or two ok across the width of the end, lower the handle down so the cut goes down the vertical line that you can see.
When you are near the bottom of the cut, straighten up so the last strokes are horizontal.
AndyT wrote:
And remember that dovetails don't all have to look perfect to be useful - just like the rest of us!
Dr.Al wrote: This was my last attempt, in what I think is ash:
AJB Temple wrote:PS 6' 6" is damn tall. Too big for buses.
Windows wrote:I’m just starting out, but the primary thing that improved my sawing was cutting along the horizontal and the vertical lines at the same time, or to put it another way starting the cut on the corner with my head in a position that I can see the two orthogonal faces and their lines at the same time. Also using the reflection of the wood in the blade to ensure that everything is square I find quite useful. I’m using Japanese saws on soft wood and try to exert as close to zero downward pressure as possible.
Steve Maskery wrote:Dr.Al wrote: This was my last attempt, in what I think is ash:
Can't help you with the DTs but that is oak, not ash.
Steve Maskery wrote:The medullary rays are very clear in those photos.
derekcohen wrote:That will keep you busy for a while!
Regards from Perth
Derek
Sheffield Tony wrote:If you can cut to a line without fiddling about with knife walls, excellent, it is going to be quicker.
I guess it may be a combination of a bit steep a slope on the waste side, and a saw with a fair amount of set on it having a tendency to undercut the "wall" maybe ?
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests