It is currently 29 Mar 2024, 07:03
AJB Temple wrote:.....Not sure why you need to use two hands for re-sawing rip cuts.....
Mike G wrote:Kerfing is the key to accurate re-sawing, I reckon.
sunnybob wrote:While I do appreciate that many people get satisfaction from working with hand tools, I dont understand the desire to use hand tools on mind numbing and tedious jobs. A bandsaw would cut that in about three minutes, leaving you an hour or more to do something more fulfilling.
sunnybob wrote:While I do appreciate that many people get satisfaction from working with hand tools, I dont understand the desire to use hand tools on mind numbing and tedious jobs. A bandsaw would cut that in about three minutes, leaving you an hour or more to do something more fulfilling.
sunnybob wrote:....is all about feed rate.
I can cut 200mm of bubinga with a well used 3/16" blade, as long as I am prepared to wait for five minutes, or even 10
sunnybob wrote:Just checking.....you do know that Padauk dust is one the most allergy inducing, itchy, gets into more crevices than sand on a beach, type of wood?
I bought back a lump of it from yandles in february, havent got round to finding a use for this piece yet.
Use good extraction, a mask, and if youre allergy prone, brush off your clothing and wash all exposed skin properly as soon as possible after cutting it.
Mike G wrote:sunnybob wrote:While I do appreciate that many people get satisfaction from working with hand tools, I dont understand the desire to use hand tools on mind numbing and tedious jobs. A bandsaw would cut that in about three minutes, leaving you an hour or more to do something more fulfilling.
Agreed. However, the lessons learnt using handtools can help when using a bandsaw. When your bandsaw blade is not at its best, it has a tendency to wander, as we all know. If you need to re-saw a board, but don't want to chuck away that older blade just yet, you can put a kerf cut around your board first, by hand, and then take it to the bandsaw. The bandsaw blade follows the same rules as your handsaw, and will follow the kerf too, if you give it a chance.
I'm sure every bandsaw owner knows that moment when you turn your re-sawn boards over to look at the underside for the first time, and realise that it has drifted off course even though the top (visible) cut was straight enough. Well, kerfing reduces the chances of that happening.
Woodbloke wrote:sunnybob wrote:Just checking.....you do know that Padauk dust is one the most allergy inducing, itchy, gets into more crevices than sand on a beach, type of wood?
I bought back a lump of it from yandles in february, havent got round to finding a use for this piece yet.
Use good extraction, a mask, and if youre allergy prone, brush off your clothing and wash all exposed skin properly as soon as possible after cutting it.
I didn't know that so thanks for the 'heads up'. I bought several big, thick, wide, boards from the same emporium (did you know that once stock is the the woodshed, they don't increase the price, so always pick your boards from the back of the stack). The timber that really irritates me is Iroko so it'll be interesting to see if Paduk is any worse - Rob
sunnybob wrote:
I got a 5ft x 8 x 2" piece, I picked it because it fitted my bandsaw cutting depth best for resawing. It was marked at 75, but they had a 15% sale on, so that was a result. But of course I had to get it back on the plane, as well as a 20kg mitre trimmer, so I had to cut it once to make the weight limit for each package. I was OK with that, but having had it back here since the middle of march, I've just checked and its split down the middle Must have been the pressure drop in the cargo hold. So now my padauk only has a usable width of about 3". Very bummed about that. I shall have to use it for box sides, rather than lids. If you have any with knotty grain, keep it for lids, this is one I made a few years ago with padauk.
chataigner wrote:.....Absolutely, but why kerf by hand ? I run mine through the table saw......
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