It is currently 29 Mar 2024, 15:50
GuineaFowl21 wrote:It looks like you set it up, then cut both sides of the joint without changing settings. Also apparently good for glue joints and general boxes. Has anyone used these? Is there a good way of estimating how much length the joint takes up, or do you just run some test pieces through?
Guineafowl21 wrote:Would it be as much of a swine as cutting 6 drawers’ worth of blind dovetails?
sunnybob wrote:I have the router table version. havent used it a great deal but was not difficult to set (there are many utube tutorials) and it gave good strong results..
No experience whatsoever with a spindle moulder
If youre not actually after show quality dovetails, take a few minutes to watch this system. i've used it and it makes very strong drawers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQXHzvJNsoA&t=358s
Woodbloke wrote:sunnybob wrote:I have the router table version. havent used it a great deal but was not difficult to set (there are many utube tutorials) and it gave good strong results..
No experience whatsoever with a spindle moulder
If youre not actually after show quality dovetails, take a few minutes to watch this system. i've used it and it makes very strong drawers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQXHzvJNsoA&t=358s
As soon as I saw that plonker’s fingers 30mm above the table saw blade I lost interest - Rob
sunnybob wrote:
You mean you are not interested in a tried and tested technique, because one man made (in your eyes), a dangerous move?. There are many more videos extolling the 1/4 x1/4 x1/4 method.
sunnybob wrote:I have the router table version. havent used it a great deal but was not difficult to set (there are many utube tutorials) and it gave good strong results..
No experience whatsoever with a spindle moulder
If youre not actually after show quality dovetails, take a few minutes to watch this system. i've used it and it makes very strong drawers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQXHzvJNsoA&t=358s
MJ80 wrote:Here are some sections I have made up for a kitchen I'm working on. To give you an idea of the joint width the stock is 26mm.
Guineafowl21 wrote:For setup, is the height relatively unimportant? For example, my paired T&G cutters can be eyeballed for height, because whatever height of tongue you get, the groove will match, as long as you keep all the stock face down.
For depth, do you start shallow, cut two test pieces, then tap the fence back, repeat, until you get a good fit?
Guineafowl21 wrote:I’m looking to make a chest similar to the one one page 234 of Illustrated Cabinetmaking, by Hylton (not sure if I should post a pic of the design here - probably not).
It consists of ply sides with stopped housings to accept web frames for the drawers. Instead of ply, I’d like to make frame and panel sides. Any general comments on this style would be welcomed.
For the drawers, I’ve had quite enough of spending ages doing blind dovetails that no-one will see, but saw this tempting item:
https://www.scosarg.com/cmt-694-011-mit ... q0QAvD_BwE
It looks like you set it up, then cut both sides of the joint without changing settings. Also apparently good for glue joints and general boxes. Has anyone used these? Is there a good way of estimating how much length the joint takes up, or do you just run some test pieces through?
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