as title.
I see the instructions are basically suck it and see for vibration, and im not really feeling buying a dial caliper setup for a router collet, i just cant seem to get it perfect, any tips?
It is currently 28 Mar 2024, 22:43
Paisawood wrote:I'm not sure that I have any tips but I do have a muscle chuck and it works well, I bought a JessEm Router table top and lift a few years ago but found that the minimal protrusion of the collet nut above the opening meant that it was very easy to damage the table insert mounting lugs with the supplied spanners. Purchase of the musclechuck solved the problem and also made cutter changing much easier. I've never experienced any vertical movement or slipage with the 1/2 inch collet. I initially had a few problems with the 1/4 inch collet but Woodworkers Workshop sent me a replacement collet and I have had no problems since.
Setting up by trial and error was fine and I haven't had any vibration problems.
David
derekcohen wrote:I use one in my router table, which is in the outfeed of my table saw ...
The router is an old Elu 177e, which would not otherwise reach above the table for changing bits. The MuscleChuck makes this an easy job. In addition, it simplifies clamping, now requiring one pint rather than two spanners.
The set up also uses a Router Raizer to raise or lower the router.
This is the upper side ...
A terrific combination that offers all the bits-and-bobs for little outlay.
Regards from Perth
Derek
derekcohen wrote:Hi Craig
The MuscleChuck can exacerbate any run out already present. I do believe that they are machined accurately for minimal vibration. Nevertheless, there is an optimum side where the balance is best. Turn the MC and test the vibration. One you find the idea spot, mark it!
What router do you have? The Elu I am using has a reputation for being very high quality. The run out is non-existent (actually, I have four Elus and they are all excellent).
With handles removed ...
Regards from Perth
Derek
Eric the Viking wrote:I have a tweaked T11, which lets me do above-table(-ish) cutter changes, so I don't presently need a collet extension.
But I also have some short lengths of 1/2" and 1/4" silver steel bar, purchased from eBay very cheaply. I intended these to be used for router table setup, but haven't actually needed them very much.
They might help identify any Musclechuck runout:
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG, then put the bar in the collet, and adjust using a dial gauge (similar to how you would do it with a 4-jaw chuck on a metalworking lathe), until you get minimum runout.
My two bars are each about 9" long, which would amplify any issues nicely, and the test can be done without the router energised. You can check the barstock itself is straight by rotating that separately to see if it changes the runout. (you can still use it if slightly bent, but you then need to be more careful, and to add/subtract numbers).
Of course this only gives you a runout test, and doesn't account for weight imbalance in chuck or cutter (or both). For that you would need to run the tool (with a normal cutter in it) to see what the vibration was like.
Have to say I'm not keen on the Musclechuck concept, for the reasons Derek mentions above. It is inevitably going to add some slop, and possible collet wear. I'm switching to a thicker router plate soon though, so might change my tune!
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