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Portable (bench-top) Workbench

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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 30 Mar 2021, 16:33

I started today by doing some test assemblies. I put each of the vices together separately and played around with them a lot. They work really well!

I then slid the two assemblies together with the screws of the dual-screw vice running in the rails of the standard vice. In this configuration, the friction was massively increased (and I hadn't even fitted the stretcher bar) and I had to have the vices clamped to the bench to slide the standard vice in and out with the quick-release mechanism released (otherwise pulling on the vice jaw just moved the whole bench).

I decided I wasn't happy about this so that necessitated a change of plan! The original idea was that the rails would support the screws as they move, but with 20 mm threaded rod, it really isn't necessary. The holes in the tube I used are a fairly close fit on the threaded rod, so any slight misalignment of the two ends of the vice means it all gets a bit jammed up.

So, onto plan B: make the holes in the tubes a bit bigger. First I had to remove the rails from the moving jaw as I'd epoxied them in. That was quite straightforward: grip them in an ER40 30 mm collet and give them a quick twist:

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I then dug around in my big drill drawer to find a 22 mm drill bit. It's not quite long enough...

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I've got a cheap old set of blacksmith's drills with a 12.7 mm (1/2") shank. I got a piece of 20 mm EN8 out of a drawer and drilled the end out 12.7 mm.

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I then went with a belt-and-braces approach as I really don't want this to come loose while it's binding a bit deep in a tube, so I glued it into the hole with Loctite 603 and then cross-drilled.

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I then banged in a (shortened with a Dremel) roll-pin.

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I started by drilling out from each end with my Morse taper 22 mm drill bit. Since the bore is going to be 2 mm wider than the threaded rod that goes into it, I (thankfully) don't have to worry about this being pretty.

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I went in as far as I could from both ends and then fitted my super-long drill bit in a collet chuck in the tail stock:

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As the flutes of the blacksmith's drill are so short, I had to withdraw the drill after every couple of millimetres, but I got there in the end.

At one point in each of the two rails, the Morse taper drill be bound, resulting in the part spinning in the chuck. It was easy enough to free it up, but it left some grooves in the rails:

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I cleaned these up with emery cloth so that the rails still slide freely in the bushes.

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I don't think it's a problem really - that bit of the rail is only in the bush when the vice is opened to about 200 mm (which won't happen often, or possibly ever) and I can't feel any difference in the rail movement: the bit that's been emery-clothed is much shorter than the length of the rail bush.

While I was drilling the rails, I also did the stretcher bar. I then drilled the stretcher bar out to 25 mm from each end. There's a little bit (about 10 mm) in the middle where the 25 mm drill bit didn't reach, but I just drilled that out to 22 mm with my long drill bit as it didn't seem worth making a long 25 mm drill bit, especially since I don't think my blacksmith's drill set goes that big. The main reason I went further with the stretcher bar than the rails was just that it doesn't do much and I figured it would save a little weight!
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 30 Mar 2021, 16:37

With all the rails adjusted again, I decided it was time to go for the big assemble! I started by gluing the stretcher bar flange onto the bar using Loctite 603.

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I then clamped both ends of the bench to my workbench to make sure the feet were sitting flat and level. For the front feet, this was easy. For one of the back feet I used a hold-down clamp through one of the dog holes in my bench. I've only got one hold-down clamp (another one is now on order!) so I had to improvise for the other clamp by fixing one of my dog-hole fillers to the bench from underneath and then using a milling clamp.

The original plan (and the reason for the very wide feet) was that the feet would all lie over holes in my bench (which would give me options like having holes through the feet and clamping down that way), but that's not possible with the shortened feet, so I'll just use hold-down clamps, which will do the job just fine.

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Next job was to fill the three 30 mm holes with lots of epoxy. I then removed the vice mechanism from the standard vice & fitted the stretcher bar. I could then slide the vice mechanism back into place and align the stretcher bar so that the flange could be screwed to the vice mechanism. Getting the last screw into the vice mechanism was an interesting endeavour with the extra jam bar in place, but I got there in the end.

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Next I slid the rails out and covered the bit where they touch in glue:

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I then fitted the rails, clamped them in place sideways and used a combined pilot drill and countersink followed by a 5 mm clearance drill to prepare the holes for fixing the rails with 60 mm long 5 mm screws.

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It's all looking very permanent:

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A quick test fit of the top to make sure I hadn't done anything stupid:

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The area where the dual-screw vice foot meets the rails struck me as a little weak. The buttons will be grabbing onto this to hold the top on, but this didn't look especially strong:

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I had an offcut of beech that was (surprisingly) the right thickness, so I got the Ryoba out and cut a few little triangles:

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I then covered them and the slot in glue and banged them into place. Hopefully that will help keep the rail and the foot together a bit better:

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I did all four corners because, well, why not?
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 30 Mar 2021, 16:39

Final job of the day was to do some tests on the vice jaws I made.

I fitted each configuration in turn and used the same bit of oak as a test bar:

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With the test bar mounted at the top of the vice, I turned the vice screw until it just held the bar in place, then tried 1/8 turn, 1/4 turn and as tight as I would normally tighten the vice (highly subjective that one) and tried yanking the end of the bar up and down. The results were surprisingly clear, although the linseed oil did leave some marks on the oak, so it obviously hadn't fully dried yet.

Best of the test was leather on the moving jaw and unfinished fixed jaw. I did have to tighten this more than the non-leather tests, but I don't think that's a fair comparison as the leather compresses and hence it was very easy to tighten the vice further than I could tighten the non-leather ones. At a "reasonable vice tightening", it was far more rigid than the non-leather ones.

Second best was leather on the moving jaw and linseed oil on the fixed jaw. There wasn't much difference to be honest, but I could just about get some movement here when I really wrenched the bar.

Third was unfinished/unfinished. Once it reached 1/4 turn beyond just-gripping, it took a lot of force to move it, but it definitely didn't hold as well as the leather ones.

Last by quite a long way was linseed oil/linseed oil. I had to get this really tight before it felt like it was well held and even then I could move it. I might try this again in a day or two after the oil has had more time to dry.
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 01 Apr 2021, 11:08

Yesterday the postman delivered a 22 mm Forstner bit, so I started today by drilling the clearance holes for the dogs. I clamped a bit of scrap (cut to length using the vice in this bench!) in the vice mechanism "pocket" and used the Forstner bit in my cordless drill to drill to a depth of about 30 mm to give plenty of space for dogs.

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All the holes drilled:

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Here it is after the vacuum cleaner had done its stuff:

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With those holes drilled, I could fit the vice mechanisms for the dual-screw vice. This was a bit of an ordeal, but I got there in the end. I started by pulling the two vice jaws out so that there was some space between the dual-screw vice's thread and the standard vice's rail:

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With the screws pushed into their countersunk holes, the mechanism body was then pushed onto the threaded rod & the hinged nut fitted over the threaded rod at the same time.

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The lid was then fitted and from there it was a case of much fiddling to get the Torx driver onto the screws and get all the screws into their pilot holes. It was much easier on the second mechanism once I'd figured out a good way of doing it. Having assembled it all the first time, one of the screws wasn't tightening consistently so I had to take it apart again. Thankfully it was just a bit of epoxy squeeze-out that had settled on the outside of the tube part of the hinged nut and that was easily scraped off.

If I were to do this again (which I can guarantee I won't!), I'd get rid of the "wings" on the top of the dual-screw vice end foot so that I could access the top of the vice mechanism. I don't think it's necessary (and you'll see later that I didn't put buttons in that section) and it would have meant I could put the lid on after fitting the mechanism body and hence see what I was doing when tightening the screws.

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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 01 Apr 2021, 11:10

Next up was the buttons to attach the top. I flipped the whole thing over and spread some buttons around the rim. I went with twelve buttons in the end, which is almost certainly excessive, but I intend to clamp things to the top and I wanted to be sure it was very firmly attached.

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With the buttons spaced roughly, I used a 2 mm Allen key as a spacer to make sure there was room for movement of the top and used a punch to mark the locations of the holes:

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As I was marking the hole locations, I also put a pencil cross on each one just to be sure I would drill pilot holes in the right places:

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I was feeling paranoid about drilling the pilot holes too deep, so rather than relying on a masking tape "flag", I set the depth stop on the drill press and drilled all the holes there:

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It was probably quicker that way to be honest: once it was set up, the holes were drilled really quickly as I didn't have to think about depth.

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With that all done, the buttons could be fitted and the top is now attached:

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This feels like a major landmark to me. I've still got to decide on a finish and then apply it and finally fit leather to the moving jaws, but it's essentially complete and entirely usable.

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The dovetail guide thing fits really well in its slot in the dual-screw vice fixed jaw, but is too loose in its parking place in the side, so I'll probably add a sliver of something into that pocket to tighten it up.

Before committing to a finish, I decided to go back and do some more tests. The linseed oil test jaw has now had a couple of extra days of drying time and last night I coated the unfinished fixed jaw with Danish Oil to give me another test piece to play with (I'll stick with the leather coated moving jaw as that seems to work really well). I wanted to do the test with the same piece of oak I'd used for testing the first time round. However, last night I did a big reorganise of all of my wood to make it much more accessible - the ends of all the pieces are now visible so I stand a better chance of getting to any given piece. In doing that, I seem to have misplaced the one piece of oak I need so I need to do some hunting around now to figure out where on earth I put it!
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 01 Apr 2021, 11:30

Found it: I was clearly "man looking" as it was obvious when I went to look again! :oops:

A quick re-test of the three current contenders (leather moving jaw & fixed jaw either plain, linseed oiled or Danish oiled) showed little difference in clamping strength (I guess the linseed oil is dry now), so I think it's a safe bet to apply oil.

I'm probably leaning towards Danish oil as it's so easy to apply and quick to dry. Has anyone got any good reasons why this is a bad idea?!

I'll give the whole bench a quick once over with 120 grit sandpaper and mask off the moving jaw. Then I'll apply a couple of coats of oil over a couple of days and in the meantime cut the leather to (over) size.
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 01 Apr 2021, 11:36

Oh, and I'm thinking of filling in this knot in the top with some 5-minute epoxy before sanding and oiling. Is this a sensible idea or will I regret that later? I've not done much involving knots before!

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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby NickM » 01 Apr 2021, 12:40

I can't think why Danish oil wouldn't be fine for this.

It's looking very good.
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Woodbloke » 01 Apr 2021, 12:53

NickM wrote:I can't think why Danish oil wouldn't be fine for this.

It's looking very good.


I'd agree, nice job. Traditionally, linseed oil was used for benches and wooden planes and that's what I use on my bench, but when it's bone dry I give the surface a goodly application of wax as well. This acts as a 'resist' and means that any odd dollops of glue etc can be lifted off with a card scraper - Rob
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 01 Apr 2021, 12:54

Woodbloke wrote:
NickM wrote:I can't think why Danish oil wouldn't be fine for this.

It's looking very good.


I'd agree, nice job. Traditionally, linseed oil was used for benches and wooden planes and that's what I use on my bench occasionally, but when it's bone dry I give the surface a goodly application of wax as well. This acts as a 'resist' and means that any odd dollops of glue etc can be lifted off with a card scraper - Rob


Thanks both.
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 01 Apr 2021, 13:00

Before sanding and oiling, I remembered that I needed to drill some more holes, so I (very carefully) added the dog holes to both moving jaws and chamfered them. I did a lot of test chamfers in bits of scrap to be sure I was getting the chamfer depth just right to match the existing ones!

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That allowed me to do a quick test of clamping long stuff. In practice, I doubt I'll clamp anything this long as the clamped wood is likely to bow a bit under the clamping pressure, but it worked and that's quite satisfying. The stock in this photo is one metre long; maximum realistic length is a little under 1.2 metres, but I didn't have anything of about the right length and it seemed a bit daft to cut something up for the purposes of a test!

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I'd be surprised if I ever use it in this configuration (with both jaws open), but my existing vice gets used with dogs in the vice and the bench all the time (usually with a bit of wood mounted on the dogs to protect the clamped wood), so I do expect to use it with one of the vice jaws open and the dogs fitted.
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 01 Apr 2021, 17:44

This afternoon I got on with the last few jobs before oiling. I thought it best to take everything apart (that will come apart) before oiling and to make re-assembly easier, I decided to drill two more small (6 mm to suit the head of an M3 cap screw) holes in the body:

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These were carefully positioned over the screws for the lids of the vice mechanisms. When I'm re-fitting the vice mechanisms after oiling, I will be able to do so with the lids removed and then fit the lids afterwards by offering the screw up with some tweezers and putting the Allen key through the new hole:

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That should make it much easier to fit the mechanism as I'll be able to see what's going on!

I also decided to fill a knot in the top surface with some five minute epoxy. This is the knot before:

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This is it daubed with epoxy:

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This is it after chiselling off the excess and then sanding flat:

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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 01 Apr 2021, 17:47

With the knot filled there was nothing for it but to get on with applying Danish Oil to all the beech parts. I sanded everything again to 120 grit, masked the inside faces of the moving jaws with masking tape (along with some masking tape on the outside of the holes that go through to the inside faces to prevent drip-through) and then laid out all the parts on some greaseproof paper on every available surface:

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The body is held up at one end on a V-block on a piece of wood; the other end is sitting on some paint points on the underside of the cut-out of the foot:

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The moving jaw for the dual-screw vice is simply sitting on a block of wood (masking tape side down); the moving jaw for the standard vice was raised off the bench using a couple of V-blocks and a clamp (bearing down on a third V-block positioned upside-down):

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The top is sitting on top of my cross-cut sled on the table saw, on some paint points. This is what it looks like after the first coat:

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Here's the body and jaws after the first coat. Despite laying out the dovetail alignment thing for oiling, I completely forgot to do so and can't be bothered right now, so I'll do that when I do the second coat tomorrow.

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There are some areas where I obviously didn't sand enough to get rid of all the glue squeeze-out, but they're very minor so I'll sort them out before doing the second coat. I was expecting some issues but applying the first coat of oil is the easiest way to be sure of spotting them! I sometimes squirt wood with some water to look for blemishes, but it doesn't catch as much as the oil will.

The walnut insert on the moving jaw for the standard vice looks lovely in my opinion:

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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby NickM » 02 Apr 2021, 07:26

Looks good with the oil.
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Andyp » 02 Apr 2021, 08:00

This is another one of so many recent projects that are way beyond my capabilities but I have been captivated from the start. Your abilities of design and execution in both wood and metal are excellent.
I hope it proves to be useful.
Thanks for sharing.
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 02 Apr 2021, 08:07

NickM wrote:Looks good with the oil.


Andyp wrote:This is another one of so many recent projects that are way beyond my capabilities but I have been captivated from the start. Your abilities of design and execution in both wood and metal are excellent.
I hope it proves to be useful.
Thanks for sharing.


Thanks both.
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Mike G » 02 Apr 2021, 08:59

The walnut looks just superb, and the whole thing is looking great. This whole build has been inspirational....not because I would find a use for it, but for the quality of the design and the workmanship.

Having said I wouldn't find use for such a thing, some sort of variation for a carving bench could be brilliant. I find my bench too low for carving, and having some sort of raised bench thingy sitting on top of the existing, with workholding built in and the ability to spin it 360 degrees...well, my old back would certainly be grateful!
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 02 Apr 2021, 12:49

I started this morning by sanding the areas where there was evidence of glue squeeze-out and then giving everything a once over with some grey Scotchbrite before doing another coat of Danish Oil (including the dovetail guide this time).

Once that was done, there wasn't much more that could be done in the woodworking end of the garage, so I had a go at making some leather punches. I'm going to cover the entirety of the inside face of the moving jaws with leather and that means the leather needs holes for the various tubes and screws that go through the face. I didn't fancy my chances of manually cutting round holes, so I thought I'd have a go at home-made punches.

I decided I couldn't be bothered with the idea of hardening steel as they would only be used once. That meant that making the punches was quick and fairly simple - I put the stock in the chuck (I used an offcut of the tube for the tube holes and some bits of 303 that I'd got out of a skip for the others) and set the top-slide at 25°. I drilled a central hole (in the 303: the tube obviously didn't need one) to give access for the boring bar and then just hacked a bit out until it had a sharp edge.

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After making a test punch and doing some trials, the test punch cut well on the first attempt but (being unhardened) got a bit mashed in the process and hence made a ragged cut on the second attempt. As the punches were taking me about 5 minutes to make per punch, I just decided to make seven of them (two are double-ended, hence it looking like there are only five!) - one punch per hole:

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You can see the two test cuts I did on the scrap of leather in the bottom-left: the one on the right is the second cut with the punch and is much more ragged.

The 25 mm ones are double-ended (so I get four cuts out of the two punches) to save material, so I also turned the little block on the left that will give me something to hit without damaging the upper cutting edge. They'll be used for each end of the holes over the slotted bushes and I'll sort the edge out with a chisel. The two 30 mm ones made out of tube are very different lengths as I cut a small piece off, made it into a punch and then used what was left to make the second punch. These will be used for the rail holes. The big one is 50.8 mm (2") as I had a lump of 303 in that size (from a skip) and it'll give clearance for the 50 mm rotating bush that will sit in this hole.

The rest of today is probably going to be waiting for the Danish Oil to dry, so I'm going to get on with some motorcycle maintenance in the meantime!
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 03 Apr 2021, 18:58

The first job of the day was to take a deep breath and have a go at fitting the leather. I had no spare leather and have never worked with this material (apart from for the test jaws) before, so I was a bit nervous about this. I started by getting a bit of 9 mm plywood (that came as part of the packaging for a very well-protected #7 plane I recently acquired - thanks Roger!) and drilling three holes in it. These didn't have to be super accurate, so I just marked them out and drilled them on the drill press. The outer two holes were drilled with a 30 mm Forstner bit; the inner hole was cut with a 50.8 mm (2") hole saw as I'd made the punch 50.8 mm to give clearance around the 50 mm threaded bush.

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You can see in the photo that I also put masking tape all the way around the rim of the jaws to stop contact adhesive getting on the oiled faces. Next I clamped one end of the longer piece of leather to the plywood and stretched it by hand before clamping the other end. I could have done with more hands for this, but I got there in the end!

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I could then use three of my home-made punches to make the holes. For each hole I positioned the hole location over one of the bench legs (scaffolding poles), put the punch in place and then hit it repeatedly with a hammer.

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It seemed to work well, giving clean cuts. There was obviously something on the old cutting mat I used as a base as it has stained the leather slightly near one of the jaws. Thankfully this is the contact adhesive side, so it's not a problem, but it gave me good warning to use some extra protection when I do the other jaw, which will be punched with the visible side on the cutting mat.

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I took the offcuts of leather and put masking tape on them and then cut round a slightly larger circle by eye with a craft knife:

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I could then use these circles to mask the area immediately around the holes and make sure no contact adhesive got through and on to the visible face. I also put masking tape along the edge of the leather (which is slightly wider than the jaw so there's space for this outside the adhesive area). Finally, I put some lithium grease on the threaded insert, pushed it into place and then masked over the top of that as well. The contact adhesive could then be spread over both faces:

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After leaving it for about 10 minutes to get tacky, I flipped the leather-clad plywood over and slide it over the rails of the jaw. I then got a bit carried away clamping it together:

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After 5 minutes or so to be sure it had set (the packet says it's an instant bond requiring no clamping, but I figured it couldn't hurt to err on the side of caution), I took the clamps off and (with some paper between the cutting mat and the leather), trimmed all the way round the jaw:

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That worked surprisingly well:

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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 03 Apr 2021, 18:59

Next up was the dual-screw jaw. For this one, I didn't punch the holes first, so laying everything out was relatively simple. The only challenge was that the leather piece I was using for this was only a little wider than the jaw, so stretching and clamping it was much more difficult. I used the same plywood piece as a base; if you look closely you can see some darker patches where the holes are underneath the leather.

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Once the contact adhesive had been left for 10 minutes, I flipped the jaw over onto the leather and again covered it in clamps:

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This is what it looked like after trimming the excess around the edges:

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The punches could then be used with the slotted bushes acting as a guide to get the holes punched in the same place. If I were doing this again, I'd drill the central hole a lot deeper in the punches and have a longer stub on the "hammering insert": it tended to fly out of the hole when I hit it and it would have been nicer for it to be better retained.

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I could then use a chisel against the flat surface of the slotted bush to join the two punched holes together. This went through the leather with very little force (I guess I'm used to paring wood with it!)

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The end result:

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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 03 Apr 2021, 19:02

I started the morning thinking the only thing left to do on the bench was to fit the leather pieces to the moving jaws and then assemble everything. However, during the course of the day I had a bit of brain wave and decided to use a different method for retaining the dovetail guide. You may remember that it had been intended to be a light friction fit in the outer part of the hole, but ended up being a bit loose. Rather than try to make the hole smaller with an insert of some sort, I thought I'd just add some "bling"!

I started by drilling a 15 mm hole in the side of the foot and then drilling 11.1 mm a bit deeper. I could then screw in a threaded insert and have its head completely hidden below the surface:

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A suitable chunk of brass was retrieved from my brass drawer and I put it in the three-jaw chuck and shaped it with my upside-down brass tool, a simple chamfer tool and a parting tool to cut some relief:

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I then took the lazy option and used my home-made tail-stock die holder to cut an M8 thread on the end of the brass bar:

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I made a quick steel insert for the rear of a collet as ER collets don't clamp very well on very short stock and having a little bit of the same diameter stock at the back of the collet makes a big difference:

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I then fitted the collet chuck, clamped the brass piece (the other way round to how it was mounted in the three-jaw chuck) in the collet chuck and turned it down to 39.57 mm (which, according to my knurl calculator is the next size down from 40 mm for a good pattern with my knurls). I know many people say that you don't have to get the diameter right before knurling, but I've always had good results when I have set the diameter right and given it only takes a few seconds to do a finish pass before knurling, I always do this.

The oil pump was turned on and I got knurling:

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I then put the upside-down tool back in the tool-post and turned away a lot of the excess, before chamfering both sides:

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My projects website: https://www.cgtk.co.uk
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Dr.Al
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 03 Apr 2021, 19:04

The dovetail guide clamp could then be fitted into its hole and tightened. I used an engineer's square to mark a line that is away from the dovetail guide in the fully-tightened position:

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I then put the clamp back into its collet (with the rear spacer piece again) and into a collet block on the mill, oriented with the scribed line roughly horizontal. I then milled about 8 mm off the top:

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The finished clamp (after hand-filing some chamfers around the milled flat):

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This is what it looks like when locked:

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Half-a-turn anticlockwise and the dovetail guide can be easily removed:

Image
My projects website: https://www.cgtk.co.uk
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Dr.Al
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 03 Apr 2021, 19:05

With that done, there was nothing left to do but assemble everything. First the moving jaws, screws and mechanisms were fitted (this was much, much easier with the lids removed):

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The lids could then be fitted, using a pair of tweezers to push the hidden screws into the right place:

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I then fitted four bench dogs into the top (to raise it off the surface of my bench when upside down) and flipped everything over. The buttons could then be fitted:

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Here's a view of the vice jaws for the standard vice:

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Here are the vice jaws for the dual-screw vice:

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This is a quick test of a rather extreme taper. This is way beyond the limits of the off-the-shelf spherical seating washers (as you can see by the way the washers aren't seating against the slotted bushes), but it clamped the stock extremely rigidly. I doubt I'll ever use it for something this extreme!

Image

Although it was always bound to work, this is a quick test of clamping long stock vertically:

Image
My projects website: https://www.cgtk.co.uk
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Dr.Al
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Name: Al

Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 03 Apr 2021, 19:06

Not much more to say really, just time for a photo-shoot.

Image

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The walnut insert on the standard vice moving jaw:

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Detail shot of the dovetail guide & clamp:

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This is where the portable workbench will spend most of its time:

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It's surprisingly robust just sitting on the cross-cut sled and can easily be used for clamping and cutting stock without having to clamp the workbench down.

And that, as they say, is that.
My projects website: https://www.cgtk.co.uk
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Dr.Al
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Nelsun » 03 Apr 2021, 19:37

Bravo Dr. Al! I've loved reading the updates and now to see the fruits of your labour come to completion. Happy clamping.
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