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Portable (bench-top) Workbench

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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 27 Mar 2021, 18:54

The first bits to get glued together are the feet to the fixed jaws. The dual-screw vice end fixed jaw is aligned with lots of dowels and a bit of the tube that I've used for vice rails. The standard vice end is aligned with the two vice rail bushes. I got everything set up and mixed up some more Araldite (as it has a much longer open time than the wood glue).

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I then glued and banged in the dowels and pushed the tube into place (without glue). I didn't take any more photos for a while after this one as everything gets a bit frantic when I'm gluing stuff together!

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Finally (for this one) I pushed everything together, clamped it, wiped all (or at least as much as possible of) the squeezed-out glue off and then pulled the tube back out again (I'll glue that in later). The other end was much simpler, but before starting on the wood glue, I put some of the mixed-up epoxy on the inside of the flange where the vice rails (and the screw bush while I was at it) sit:

Image

Since I was on a bit of an Araldite roll, I also epoxied the bearing block into the moving jaw for the standard vice and the two slotted bushes into the moving jaw for the dual-screw vice. The flanges were definitely a good thing on the other brass bits - there was a lot of messy squeezed-out Araldite at the bottom of the hole for the slotted bushes. I cleaned up as much as I could, but I'll have to do more when the epoxy has cured.

Here's everything clamped as it is now:

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I also glued the hinge bars into place. To do this, I fitted each one dry, then slid it out one way and put a very small drop of Loctite 603 on the end, then slid it the other way and repeated that. I'm hoping that this results in the hinge bar being held in place but the nut still pivoting on the hinge bar. If it jams up I can always get it undone again with acetone or heat.

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Finally I glued the dovetail guide up by clamping it to a small welding square. This will need more work to clean it up a bit, but I'll do that once the glue has dried.

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That brings us to the end of the day's work. It's been a major step today as it's the first time I really can't go backwards and change something (without going shopping for more beech and basically starting again!). Hopefully when I go out tomorrow morning I won't find anything drastically wrong!
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Mike G » 27 Mar 2021, 19:23

Wonderful stuff, Dr Al. The only comment I have is that one of the wooden parts (it might be one of the vice jaws), looks very weak with so much cut away. I'm sure you know what you're doing, though, and it is probably fully fastened to some steel.
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 27 Mar 2021, 20:33

Mike G wrote:Wonderful stuff, Dr Al. The only comment I have is that one of the wooden parts (it might be one of the vice jaws), looks very weak with so much cut away. I'm sure you know what you're doing, though, and it is probably fully fastened to some steel.


Thanks Mike. Do you mean the top one in this image?

Image

If so, then no, it's not fixed to steel, but it (one of the feet) is fixed with dowels & glue to a very solid bit of beech: the fixed jaw. The purpose of the foot is (obviously) to give it all something to sit on. I was a bit wary of how thin it is, but I'm (optimistically) hoping that it'll be okay. The only bits that are actually doing anything are the vertical arms at the side (with two dowels in each arm) transferring the weight of the fixed jaw down to the "ground". The arms are about 25 mm wide and 46 mm deep (into the page in the photo above), so there's a fair bit of wood there. The bit in the middle only really serves to purpose of keeping everything aligned while gluing.

Does that make sense?
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 28 Mar 2021, 11:34

The feet/jaw assemblies look okay having come out of the clamps (although I won't know whether everything is aligned properly until I'm quite a bit further on, so I'm just having to hope for the best for now).

Image

With the clamps all removed, I could put a bit more epoxy into the fixed jaw for the dual-screw vice:

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The screw bushes for that vice could then be fitted and clamped in place:

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The vice mechanism body for the standard vice could be fitted at this point. The other vice mechanism bodies will have to be fitted when the whole workbench is assembled as they need to be slid into place along the threaded rod: there's no access to the top of the body once the vice mechanism is fitted and hence there's no way to drop the hinged nut assembly into place. It'll be much more awkward, but all being well will only need to be done once!

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I then decided to bite the proverbial bullet and fit the rails. In my mind this is the most scary bit as the movement of these rails in their bushes will either make the vice lovely and smooth to use or it will make it jam up and be next to impossible to use. I genuinely have no idea what I'll do if the latter is true!

I started by clamping the foot down to the workbench and fitting the rails into the rail bushes. I then slid the moving vice jaw on for a test fit:

Image

Then I took a deep breath, plonked a load of Araldite in the bottom of the holes for the rails and then clamped everything together. I used the wooden rails that support the table top as spacers between the moving and fixed jaw: they're the same size as each other so will keep the two jaws parallel while giving some clearance just in case there's any Araldite squeeze-out.

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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 28 Mar 2021, 11:37

With all that epoxy setting, there isn't much I can do for the rest of today, but I thought I'd get on with one little outstanding job that could be done without touching any of the epoxied pieces: sorting out the bore in the spherical seating washers I bought.

There isn't much material to hold on to in the lathe, so I decided this was a job for my home-made soft jaws (made out of some hex bar stock I bought on ebay a while ago). Brass is an odd material for soft jaws, but when I was looking for some very large hex stock, there was a local ebay seller selling a bit off and it was cheaper than buying a length of steel from a steel supplier.

I started by clamping a bit of scrap in the soft jaws. The diameter of the scrap was chosen to minimise the amount I had to take off the soft jaws (to prolong their life).

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With the jaws firmly clamped I could then machine a recess of the same diameter as the washer.

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The washer then sits against the back of the recess and is held firmly on the perimeter:

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Machining the bore was straightforward as I wasn't aiming for a very precise fit: it just had to slide over the flanged part that sits on the threaded rod.

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While I had the soft jaws fitted and set to the right diameter, I decided to mount the convex washers and machine the face. They had a slightly rough finish and I figured it would mar the brass slotted bushes quite quickly without touching up.

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On the first one I did I made two mistakes: I started the facing cut with the cutter very close to the piece and I forgot to switch the power feed from turning to facing. As a result, I took a light cut on the outside bore. I usually keep the cutter a little way away from the cut - that way if I have the power feed going the wrong way it just passes by the outside of the part. I was more careful on the second one!

You can see the result of my mistake on the right-hand most piece in this picture of all four pieces:

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The parts then got a dunking in cold blue for a few minutes before rinsing in water.

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The finished result after a quick air line dry and before coating with oil and leaving alone for the coating to harden.

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The cold blue has hidden most of the evidence of my earlier mistake: you can still see it if you're looking for it but it's far less obvious now.

At the moment I can't think of anything else I can do on this until the epoxy has fully cured (14 hours according to the packet), so that's probably it for the day.
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby AndyT » 28 Mar 2021, 13:03

This is a fascinating project to follow.

I can enjoy the way you plan ahead, anticipating problems and (generally) lining up a solution in advance. It helps me to understand why I am not an engineer, or a doctor!

If I had ever felt the need for something like this, it would have turned out much less precisely made and nowhere near as strong or massive.

And I'm sure everything is going to slide sweetly!
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 28 Mar 2021, 13:07

AndyT wrote:And I'm sure everything is going to slide sweetly!


I'm not!
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 28 Mar 2021, 16:48

The problem with having nothing to do on the project while the glue dry is it gets me thinking.

I've decided to make a small (but awkward now that it's glued together) change to the design. I'm going to shorten the feet. At the moment, they stick out about 75 mm on each side of the body. I'm going to trim that down to 60 mm (or a little under). It'll still provide plenty of clamping area I think but will make the overall width of the workbench a little smaller (500 mm rather than 530 mm).

Updated CAD model:

Image

The reason I want to do this is that I plan to keep the workbench on top of the table saw when not in use (and probably will also use it while it's on the table saw). At the moment the space on top of the table saw is occupied by my cross-cut sled. What hadn't occurred to me before now is that the depth of the cross-cut sled is 500 mm, so if the bench is that size or less, it'll fit neatly on the sled. If it's wider than that, I'll have to find a new home for the sled and I can't think of where that might be!

Cutting the feet shorter will be very straightforward I think: either with a hand saw or with the table saw and the cross-cut sled. What's going to be difficult is re-rounding over the edges. With the fixed jaws in place, the only way I'll be able to get the router to the end of the feet will be end on, but the surface area is far too small. Hopefully I'll be able to rig something up so that the foot (and it's attached jaw) is clamped to something firmly, but also have a raised work surface around the foot end to support the router base. Something to think about tomorrow anyway.

While I was out there pondering, I also decided that I'll probably screw the support rails into the feet and fixed jaws. I'd initially planned to glue them (and I still will), but I'd been considering dowels and such like. I think all that is too much faff for little benefit, so I'll cover the area in glue, plonk the vice rail in place and screw it down to both the foot and the fixed jaw. The screws will be hidden by the bench top. I've marked up where the holes will go, but I'll drill out the clearance holes, pilot holes and countersinks later:

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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby AndyT » 28 Mar 2021, 16:57

Dr.Al wrote: What's going to be difficult is re-rounding over the edges. With the fixed jaws in place, the only way I'll be able to get the router to the end of the feet will be end on, but the surface area is far too small. Hopefully I'll be able to rig something up so that the foot (and it's attached jaw) is clamped to something firmly, but also have a raised work surface around the foot end to support the router base. Something to think about tomorrow anyway.


I know this is a power tool project, but sometimes a hand tool really is the simplest answer. I would round those edges over with a file. If you don't have a file you can stick sandpaper onto a stick.

But, following a tip given to me by a toolmaker years and years ago, don't try and rock the file end to end over the curve. Instead, start with the far end of the file resting on one of the flat surfaces, to the left of where you want the curved arris. Push forwards, and at the same time, rotate your wrist (and the file) 90 degrees to the right, until the file is flat on the adjoining surface.

It's easier to do than to describe, but gives a much neater rounding.
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 28 Mar 2021, 17:07

AndyT wrote:
Dr.Al wrote: What's going to be difficult is re-rounding over the edges. With the fixed jaws in place, the only way I'll be able to get the router to the end of the feet will be end on, but the surface area is far too small. Hopefully I'll be able to rig something up so that the foot (and it's attached jaw) is clamped to something firmly, but also have a raised work surface around the foot end to support the router base. Something to think about tomorrow anyway.


I know this is a power tool project, but sometimes a hand tool really is the simplest answer. I would round those edges over with a file. If you don't have a file you can stick sandpaper onto a stick.

But, following a tip given to me by a toolmaker years and years ago, don't try and rock the file end to end over the curve. Instead, start with the far end of the file resting on one of the flat surfaces, to the left of where you want the curved arris. Push forwards, and at the same time, rotate your wrist (and the file) 90 degrees to the right, until the file is flat on the adjoining surface.

It's easier to do than to describe, but gives a much neater rounding.


That's a good point and a useful tip, thank you. I'll have a practice on a bit of scrap and see how it looks.
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 29 Mar 2021, 09:59

There's a word I've just been saying over and over again. One of its synonyms is "excrement". I clearly haven't had enough coffee this morning.

I went out this morning and marked up where I was going to cut the feet off to shorten them a little. I decided to go for 20 mm shortening rather than 15 mm as it looked like plenty. I marked all four feet with some pencil lines around three sides, then clamped one of the parts to the bench:

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I then started sawing. This is how far I got before I realised I'm an idiot:

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This is where the line should have been:

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I marked up three of them correctly and one of them completely wrong and in my morning groggy state, I didn't notice that one looked completely different to the others and, of course, started with that one.

I haven't finished cutting through; I'm open to any suggestions! Thoughts I've had so far are:

  • Cut it off where I've started and live with a foot with about 20 mm clamping area rather than the planned 40 mm ish. There's probably enough to clamp on (especially if I can hand sand the radius a bit tighter to give a bit more of a flat area).
  • Fill in where I've cut (a triangular section that is I guess about 1/4 of the cross-section of the foot) with a glued-in bit of beech and live with the horrible looking bodge.
  • Cut half way through, carefully chisel out a slot and put a bit of walnut in to make a contrasting thing.
  • Curl up on the sofa and cry...

Anyone got any better ideas?!
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby AndyT » 29 Mar 2021, 10:11

Ouch! And Botheration!

Here's another idea.

Complete the cut, which I guess is at 30mm rather than 20.

Cut away the top of short piece that remains, and the bottom of the piece you cut off, to make a half lap joint, with the upper part helping to bear down on the whole vice. It'll be strong, nobody else will spot it and you'll be reminded of your minimum coffee dose on future projects.
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Andyp » 29 Mar 2021, 10:13

I have been fascinated by this project from the start. So many skills and such brilliant execution.
So you have made a faux pas.
Although I admire your need for perfection don't become a slave to it. I would cut a slither of either beech, or walnut if you prefer a contrast, and learn to live with it. Even if it is not an invisible fix, so what? It will not have any effect on the usefulness of the finished project and should not deflect your sense of pride and achievement in all the stuff you have got right.
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Nelsun » 29 Mar 2021, 10:25

I doubt I have any words that would actually be of any real help. I did swear in solidarity for what it's worth.

One thing I've done on my portable vice is to use threaded inserts (M8 in my case) in the base which align with dog holes (every worktop I have has them) to screw in to with some big knobs from underneath. This is slightly limiting on placement but it does save having clamps getting in the road.
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Mike G » 29 Mar 2021, 10:33

Can you slice horizontally along the grain, removing the incorrect cut, and just glue on a new strip in its place?
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby novocaine » 29 Mar 2021, 11:15

I think I'd cut them all the same then cap the ends with something, perhaps cut them at an angle so it looks like an intentional scarf joint. I'd be tempted to cap them then drill and insert a dowl from the end (beech this time) to give it the extra strength.
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 29 Mar 2021, 13:27

Thanks for the suggestions; I think I'll keep mulling on options for a while before making a decision. I decided I would do a test to see what the idea of some contrasting walnut would look like.

I didn't want to do anything that could impact the real thing, so I made a quick test piece, (very) roughly shaped to match the foot (I made lots of mistakes making the outline of the foot, so it looks awful, but I don't think that matters as it's just a test piece).

Image

This has some boiled linseed oil brushed onto the surface on one side and then immediately wiped off - I couldn't be bothered to do anything more "proper" here. I also used this piece to practise hand-filing the rounded edge.

Image
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 29 Mar 2021, 13:29

While I was in a frame of mind of not doing anything that could ruin the real parts, I decided to make up a few jaw test pieces to help me choose a finish for the bench.

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Two of them are going to be left as-is, two will get coated with boiled linseed oil, one will get some leather stuck to it and one will be a spare. The holes are counterbored for M8 cap screws for attachment to my bench vice - the current jaws are attached with countersunk screws but I've got a LOT more cap screws than countersunk screws, so this gives me more options for length (and they're only for testing). The plan is to attach these to the bench vice and do some strength testing comparing:

  • Unfinished jaws
  • Jaws coated in boiled linseed oil
  • Fixed jaw unfinished and moving jaw covered in leather
  • Fixed jaw coated in boiled linseed oil and moving jaw covered in leather

The instructions on my internet-bought bottle of boiled linseed oil are a little opaque for someone linguistically challenged like me:

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So I just daubed it on with a paintbrush and kept adding more over about half-an-hour wherever there were bits looking dry.

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I then wiped off the excess and I'll leave that until tomorrow. Hopefully one coat will be enough for the purposes of this test.

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For the leather coated jaw, I hand-stretched the leather along the bench, using some offcuts of wood and some clamps to hold it in place. I then slid a bit of greaseproof paper underneath to protect the bench:

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After applying contact adhesive with a filling knife over both pieces and leaving for five minutes or so, I pressed the beech jaw onto the leather and then transferred it to the vice for an extra squeeze.

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After a couple of minutes of squeezing, it came out of the vice.

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A bit of the contact adhesive has bled around the edges, so I'll have to be more careful on the final piece if I go this way.

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I trimmed the edge off (which got rid of most, but not all, of the contact adhesive that had bled round) and opened up the holes.

Image

I'll do some (probably not very scientific) tests with these bits tomorrow once the linseed oil has had time to dry.
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Phil » 29 Mar 2021, 13:59

The label says "if you slap it on too thickly, you will F-It-Up" :lol: :lol:

I use lots of BLO.
First and second coats are thinned with some turps, end then the maybe-final coat 100% BLO.
Leave for 30 minutes between coats and wipe excess off.

Don't forget to hang the rags out to dry.

I let each coat dry at least 24 hours (summer heat) and longer in the winter

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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 29 Mar 2021, 14:16

Phil wrote:The label says "if you slap it on too thickly, you will F-It-Up" :lol: :lol:


:lol: :lol: :lol:

Hopefully it'll be good enough for a grip test. I'll be more careful & follow your advice if/when I do the real thing.
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 29 Mar 2021, 15:43

There comes a time when you just have to make a decision. The walnut insert thing looked okay to me so I decided to go with it. I dug out an offcut of walnut from my drawer and cut it into pieces (with extras as spares just in case):

Image

I decided to use the table saw to do all the cutting as I can set-up the stop on the cross-cut sled and ensure consistency (i.e. stop myself from being an idiot twice in one day!). It was a bit awkward as the foot is a lot wider than the support area for the sled, but there's enough of a flat area that I can get it sitting flat on the sled and then clamp it in place. I had to use the stop in one position for the one side of each foot...

Image

... and in another position for the other side of each foot:

Image

I then used my kerfmaker thing to cut the grooves. As I was feeling paranoid and in case of small differences in the walnut thickness, I re-set the kerfmaker for each walnut piece and also did a test cut in a piece of scrap for each walnut piece.

Image

My baby router plane is too big to fit into this slot (it's about 6 mm wide), so I used my 3 mm chisel to square up the bottom of the cut (I actually cut it a bit concave as that was safer than cutting it convex). I checked the walnut pieces sat properly against the two edges (front and back) and then glued and clamped them into place.

Image

I'll leave them plenty of time to dry before trimming and sanding to shape. Once that's done I'll have a go at rounding the edges off.
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby NickM » 29 Mar 2021, 16:04

That’s a good fix I think.
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby novocaine » 29 Mar 2021, 16:06

I'd say it was a feature rather than a failure. :lol:
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Dr.Al » 29 Mar 2021, 18:14

Once the glue had been left for long enough to be thoroughly dry (and I'd enjoyed some time sitting in the sun in the garden), I went and had a look at the feet. I decided I wasn't going to take any risks, so I wrapped three layers of masking tape around the end of the feet and used my flush cutting saw to cut the walnut flush to the masking tape (this avoided any chance of undercutting).

Image

I then attacked it with some 120 grit sandpaper until it looked right:

Image
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Re: Portable (bench-top) Workbench

Postby Cabinetman » 29 Mar 2021, 18:52

I think I would drill in from the end through into the original leg and glue in a couple of beech dowels, it can’t do any harm as there is no strength in that bit that is cut across anyway. Ian
Ps A real shame though as it was all going so well, but it’s not anything all the rest of us haven’t done at sometime.
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