It is currently 29 Mar 2024, 12:46
Woodbloke wrote:MY63 wrote:It came out ok in the end.
That's slightly better than 'OK'! - Rob
Mike G wrote:This 1:1:1 mixture is brushed on then wiped off after 5 to 10 minutes. That lot will dry overnight and the gluing up of the frame can happen tomorrow. If the legs seem like too much of a contrast to the bog-oak, then I'll rub them back fairly hard and apply the darker finish. Finally, the end of this drawn out build is in sight.
It has to be an oil-based varnish, not a water based one. It can be any oil, but these days I use Osmo to try to use up what I've got left. Slap the mixture on any old how, but you have to wipe it off before it goes tacky, and then leave it to dry for 24 hours. Build up as many coats as you like, but 3 for most things is enough......6 or 7 for a table top.
Woodbloke wrote:Mike G wrote:This 1:1:1 mixture is brushed on then wiped off after 5 to 10 minutes. That lot will dry overnight and the gluing up of the frame can happen tomorrow. If the legs seem like too much of a contrast to the bog-oak, then I'll rub them back fairly hard and apply the darker finish. Finally, the end of this drawn out build is in sight.
It has to be an oil-based varnish, not a water based one. It can be any oil, but these days I use Osmo to try to use up what I've got left. Slap the mixture on any old how, but you have to wipe it off before it goes tacky, and then leave it to dry for 24 hours. Build up as many coats as you like, but 3 for most things is enough......6 or 7 for a table top.
I've just made up a small jam jar of this gloop as I had a very small amount of Osmo left in a pot. So it's one part Osmo, one part white spirits and one part part Liberon Finishing Oil (I have three tins of the stuff); stir thoroughly and apply. I've just used a cloth to put on a first thin coat with a couple more tomorrow - Rob
9fingers wrote:
I think these are all essentially variants of "Sam Maloof's Mixture" being 1 part solvents various and 2 parts varnish/oils various
I've used 1part white spirit and 2 parts oil based PU (rustins) very successfully on my lounge furniture projects in the last few years. I've applied by brush and brushed it out to very thin coats with a minimum of 3 coats, de-nibbing and tack clothing in between. I suspect it could have been a little faster drying if I'd wiped off the excess but I got quite adept at watching for any runs when brushing out.
Bob
9fingers wrote:......I think these are all essentially variants of "Sam Maloof's Mixture".....
Mike G wrote:9fingers wrote:......I think these are all essentially variants of "Sam Maloof's Mixture".....
Yes, indeed. However, I object to it being called Maloof's mixture (Americans do that all the time), on the grounds that it had been in woodworking text books a hundred years before he used it, and had probably been in common use for many years before that.
I always reckon on the finish being one-down from the level of gloss in the original varnish. So if you use satin varnish in your mix, it will be pretty close to matt, and if, like you did, you use gloss then it will finish satin-ish. If you really want it to be glossy, then do the last coat as gloss varnish and white spirit 50/50.Woodbloke wrote:.....Seems to be a very pleasant, satin finish .......
Mike G wrote:... like you did, you use gloss then it will finish satin-ish.
And yes, you're right, it doesn't skin over in the jar.
Woodbloke wrote:Mike G wrote:... like you did, you use gloss then it will finish satin-ish.
And yes, you're right, it doesn't skin over in the jar.
I don't use gloss Osmo, so this was the last dregs of a satin tin and the finish came out satinish as well, so quite similar to the original Osmo. I also though, gave it a coat of wax over the top. The non-skinning jar is a definite 'plus point' as is the ease of application; slosh it on all over (like the great smell of 'Brute' ) wipe off the excess and repeat etc - Rob
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