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Hall Table - Finished

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Hall Table - Finished

Postby Blackswanwood » 25 Jul 2021, 22:40

Apologies in advance that I keep forgetting to take pictures as I go along!

I made a small hall table for one of my daughters and have been asked by one of her friends to make one for her.

The "undercarriage" will be painted so I am using Poplar. There is an outstanding decision as to whether the top and drawer will be oak or cherry. As I had no Poplar it gave me the perfect excuse for a trip to Scawton Timber.

Scawton.jpg
Scawton Timber
(712.95 KiB)


Timbershed.jpg
Timbershed
(468.94 KiB)


The pieces I wanted were at the bottom but as ever the guys who own this place were really helpful.

Helpful.jpg
Helpful
(231.68 KiB)


This is what I started out with ... 2 metres of 220 x 110mm

Timber.jpg
Timber
(225.95 KiB)


The legs taper on the internal faces from 64mm to 32mm. When I made the first one I found this made the mortice and tenons for the rails a faff. I have left the tops of the legs square this time to hopefully make it easier ... don't tell my daughters friend ;)

I broke the timber down at the bandsaw - these are the legs "rough cut"

roughcut.jpg
Roughcut legs
(183.57 KiB)


It was then time to get planing ...

Taper.jpg
Planing
(302.51 KiB)


I then marked out the mortices - these are 6mm wide and 12mm deep across the length with two that are 38mm deep - these will be drawbored. It may be overkill using a mortice chisel to chop Poplar but it makes doing the deeper mortices a lot easier

Mortice.jpg
Mortices
(248.33 KiB)


Then onto the tenons ... sawing down to the shoulder line. Seeing this picture reminds me that I keep meaning to make a shorter bench hook - obviously it doesn't apply here but one once I have started a cut I tend to cut down the visible line before going back to take the "hump" in the middle out.

Tenon.jpg
Tenon
(202.35 KiB)


I took the waste off with a chisel rather than sawing simply because I like doing it this way

Tenonchisel.jpg
Tenon waste
(184.89 KiB)


and brought them down to just above the knife line with the block plane.

Tenoncleanup.jpg
Tenon clean up
(298.93 KiB)


That's as far as I got today. Hopefully I will get some time in the evenings this week to crack on with it.
Last edited by Blackswanwood on 01 Sep 2021, 21:27, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Hall Table

Postby NickM » 26 Jul 2021, 09:07

This looks like a great project. Thanks for posting.
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Re: Hall Table

Postby AndyT » 26 Jul 2021, 09:21

Seconded! Following with interest.
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Re: Hall Table

Postby MJ80 » 27 Jul 2021, 12:45

That looks like it's going to be fun. They are great at Scawton, I used to get my Oak from them when I was based in Leeds, great company.
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Re: Hall Table

Postby Blackswanwood » 28 Jul 2021, 10:38

I managed to get a bit of time to crack on last night ....

I cut the drawer opening in the front rail - the edges needed a quick pare with a sharp chisel.

Draweropening.jpg
Cutting Drawer Opening
(234.59 KiB)


The mortices for the drawer runners were then marked out on the front rail and transferred to the corresponding point on the rear rail.

Transfer.jpg
Transfer Drawer Runner Layout
(330.25 KiB)


The mortices marked out on the top edges are to accommodate the buttons that will hold the top in place. Next step was to chop out the mortices. These are 10mm and a lot easier that the ones in the legs which are 6mm.

Chopping.jpg
Chopping
(187.95 KiB)


The rail tenons will be draw bored so the next job was to make some dowels. I used a scrap piece of oak - cut a length 9mm square on the bandsaw, took the corners off with a spoke shave and banged it though a dowelling plate.

Dowels.jpg
Dowels
(244.72 KiB)


Having also cut and planed the drawer runners down to size (another piece of left over oak) I now have all the components for the "super structure"

Components.jpg
Components
(250 KiB)


Before starting to put the pieces together I drilled the holes through the legs for the drawer bore dowels.

Drawbore.jpg
Drawbore
(167.4 KiB)


Unfortunately I forgot to position the holes so they do not hit each other however given the thickness it's not going to make any material difference.

Next was cutting the tenon to shape.

Tenon Shape.jpg
Tenon Shape
(294.33 KiB)


I also got this wrong as I measured 12mm from the tenon end rather than the shoulder for the shorter sections and spent ten minutes looking in the mortices for what was stopping it before realising! I'm sure no one reading this would make such a school boy error :lol:

This is the correctly sized tenon. I left them slightly "fat" when originally cutting them so that I can then "edge" them down to the correct fit with a bit of paring when they go together.

Correct Tenon Shape.jpg
Correct Tenon Shape
(229.98 KiB)


Final stage for last night was to mark the tenon with a brad point bit ready to be drilled to make the corresponding hole for the draw bore.

Dry Fit.jpg
Dry Fit
(124.3 KiB)


I'm hoping to get back in the workshop tomorrow evening to do the glue up and crack on with the drawer.

Apologies again for the irregular pictures and any typos as I've rushed to do it in my coffee break!
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Re: Hall Table - legs and rails ready to go together

Postby AndyT » 28 Jul 2021, 10:55

This is what I recognise as woodworking. Time and effort enjoyably spent, on little jobs along the way. Things that only another woodworker will understand, while the rest of the world thinks "Ooh, nice table" without no idea about buttons, dowels, reference points for measurements and the rest.
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Re: Hall Table - legs and rails ready to go together

Postby Cabinetman » 28 Jul 2021, 14:13

AndyT wrote:This is what I recognise as woodworking. Time and effort enjoyably spent, on little jobs along the way. Things that only another woodworker will understand, while the rest of the world thinks "Ooh, nice table" without no idea about buttons, dowels, reference points for measurements and the rest.

Dead right, it’s such a good brain exercise.
Coming along very nicely, had you considered cutting the piece of wood in half along its length to make it easier for the drawer opening and then glue it back together? There would be a glue line but I doubt you would see it. It would have been easier to get the piece you removed to fit as a drawer front as well perhaps. Ian
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Re: Hall Table - legs and rails ready to go together

Postby Mike G » 28 Jul 2021, 18:27

Ooooh, someone is doing some woodwork. And some joinery! Very nice to see, Robert.
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Re: Hall Table - legs and rails ready to go together

Postby Blackswanwood » 29 Jul 2021, 08:35

Thanks guys.

Ian - that indeed would have been an easier way to do it - I've learned something today!

Cheers
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Re: Hall Table - legs and rails ready to go together

Postby novocaine » 29 Jul 2021, 08:48

looking spanking, and so neat.

mistakes are what makes it all yours. dealing with mistakes is what sets us apart from the animals (oak furniture land) :lol:
Carbon fibre is just corduroy for cars.
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Re: Hall Table - legs and rails ready to go together

Postby sunnybob » 29 Jul 2021, 09:00

Can I ask a question please?
On the tenon, why do you cut two distinct tenons, rather than just leave the wood as one long tenon?
To my eyes it seems like an excessive amount of work that just weakens the strength of the joint :o
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Re: Hall Table - legs and rails ready to go together

Postby Woodbloke » 29 Jul 2021, 10:21

Cabinetman wrote:Coming along very nicely, had you considered cutting the piece of wood in half along its length to make it easier for the drawer opening and then glue it back together? There would be a glue line but I doubt you would see it. It would have been easier to get the piece you removed to fit as a drawer front as well perhaps. Ian

Agreed, that’s the much easier option, but therein lies a problem with the piece removed, if it’s to be used as a drawer front and that is the bit of wood may be too short as you’ve now used double saw kerf to remove it. Not too bad if a very fine kerf Japanese saw’s been used, but if it’s one with a wide kerf, the gap may well be too much for a decent fitting drawer.

There is however, a way round it, but too late I’m afeard for this project - Rob
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Re: Hall Table - legs and rails ready to go together

Postby Blackswanwood » 29 Jul 2021, 10:56

sunnybob wrote:Can I ask a question please?
On the tenon, why do you cut two distinct tenons, rather than just leave the wood as one long tenon?
To my eyes it seems like an excessive amount of work that just weakens the strength of the joint :o


Bob - my rationale is that a long single tenon would need a long single mortice and the "thin" wall would be unsupported. The haunch in-between the two mortices means if there is any shrinkage a gap won't open up but it avoids compromising the strength of the wood surrounding the tenons.

Woodbloke wrote:
There is however, a way round it, but too late I’m afeard for this project - Rob


Rob - I'd be very interested to learn what it is even though too late for this one. I see one of the benefits of posting WIPs is the tips and constructive feedback that more learned members can provide!
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Re: Hall Table - legs and rails ready to go together

Postby Woodbloke » 29 Jul 2021, 11:25

Blackswanwood wrote:
Rob - I'd be very interested to learn what it is even though too late for this one. I see one of the benefits of posting WIPs is the tips and constructive feedback that more learned members can provide!


Here’s how I’ve seen it done, which is quite cunning! Take the original side, which should be over thick, so if the finished size needs to be say 25mm, the side should be around 40mm or so. Then bandsaw it into three equal thickness slices. The first slice is the ‘show’ side and this is then glued to the third slice to form the finished side which can then be machined to the final thickness. The second slice is now your drawer front and with any luck the grain should be a fairly close match to the first slice; it can be glued to other material to get the required thickness

The technique works even better if you make the slices say 2mm thick and then re-glue as the grain pattern will be a much closer, if not perfick match - Rob
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Re: Hall Table - legs and rails ready to go together

Postby 9fingers » 29 Jul 2021, 11:32

I too have been looking in on this thread at the strange range of alien techniques (to me that is!), implements and the humongous lump of wood upon which they rest.
None of these* feature in my workshop and yet I've made several similar tables.

* I have to admit that when Woodbloke popped in for a coffee and cake session the other day, he did spot a chisel on my assembly table but I was able to explain that away as the ideal tool to remove glue squeeze out from an internal corner and my credibility was retained. He also saw a thick layer of dust on a Jack plane that is only used as a door prop from time to time.

Everyone to their own favoured methods but it does seem like exceptionally hard work.

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Re: Hall Table - legs and rails ready to go together

Postby sunnybob » 29 Jul 2021, 12:00

OK, I understand that reasoning, thanks 8-)
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Re: Hall Table - legs and rails ready to go together

Postby Woodbloke » 29 Jul 2021, 12:02

9fingers wrote:I too have been looking in on this thread at the strange range of alien techniques (to me that is!), implements and the humongous lump of wood upon which they rest.
None of these* feature in my workshop and yet I've made several similar tables.

* I have to admit that when Woodbloke popped in for a coffee and cake session the other day, he did spot a chisel on my assembly table but I was able to explain that away as the ideal tool to remove glue squeeze out from an internal corner and my credibility was retained. He also saw a thick layer of dust on a Jack plane that is only used as a door prop from time to time.

Everyone to their own favoured methods but it does seem like exceptionally hard work.

Bob


It is a bit of ‘faff’ Bob, but it’s a way of ensuring that the grain on the show side and the drawer front are more or less continuous and the thinner you can make the slices, the better the match. For all practical purposes, 2mm seems to me to be about right.

I remember the chisel; good ‘get out of jail’ explanation! :lol: :lol: - Rob
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Re: Hall Table - legs and rails ready to go together

Postby 9fingers » 29 Jul 2021, 12:11

Woodbloke wrote:
9fingers wrote:I too have been looking in on this thread at the strange range of alien techniques (to me that is!), implements and the humongous lump of wood upon which they rest.
None of these* feature in my workshop and yet I've made several similar tables.

* I have to admit that when Woodbloke popped in for a coffee and cake session the other day, he did spot a chisel on my assembly table but I was able to explain that away as the ideal tool to remove glue squeeze out from an internal corner and my credibility was retained. He also saw a thick layer of dust on a Jack plane that is only used as a door prop from time to time.

Everyone to their own favoured methods but it does seem like exceptionally hard work.

Bob


It is a bit of ‘faff’ Bob, but it’s a way of ensuring that the grain on the show side and the drawer front are more or less continuous and the thinner you can make the slices, the better the match. For all practical purposes, 2mm seems to me to be about right.

I remember the chisel; good ‘get out of jail’ explanation! :lol: :lol: - Rob


100% I invariably use grain matching in that sort of job - but you would expect me to have my own methods :lol:
I'll post a photo if I remember later but I don't want to hijack this thread that folks are enjoying!
And we have enough bobs/robs contributing too
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Re: Hall Table - legs and rails ready to go together

Postby Cabinetman » 29 Jul 2021, 15:33

Woodbloke wrote:
Cabinetman wrote:Coming along very nicely, had you considered cutting the piece of wood in half along its length to make it easier for the drawer opening and then glue it back together? There would be a glue line but I doubt you would see it. It would have been easier to get the piece you removed to fit as a drawer front as well perhaps. Ian

Agreed, that’s the much easier option, but therein lies a problem with the piece removed, if it’s to be used as a drawer front and that is the bit of wood may be too short as you’ve now used double saw kerf to remove it. Not too bad if a very fine kerf Japanese saw’s been used, but if it’s one with a wide kerf, the gap may well be too much for a decent fitting drawer.

There is however, a way round it, but too late I’m afeard for this project - Rob


Yes I agree about the width of the saw kerf, but that can be taken up/ reduced when you glue the two pieces back onto the long piece, obviously the tenons on each end are cut afterwards. Ian
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Re: Hall Table - Drawer and Top

Postby Blackswanwood » 28 Aug 2021, 22:09

This had to take a back seat with a couple of jewellery boxes to get done, family stuff and work getting in the way but I got back to it in the evenings this week.

First job was the glue up.

Glued up.jpg
Glue Up
(429.92 KiB)


The drawer runners are oak. There was 4mm difference in the diagonal dimension when I took it out of the clamps which really annoyed me as it was square when it went in!

I then got on with drawer which is dovetailed.

Drawer dovetails.jpg
Drawer dovetails
(304.63 KiB)


The picture shows a jig being used that I picked up from Mike Pekovich's book which makes aligning the pieces to transfer the markings easy peasy.

Dovetail - Pekovich Jig.jpg
Pekovich Jig
(248.31 KiB)


This is the glue up. I have put grooves for the drawer bottom in the sides using a plough plane which was easy as I thought ahead and made sure the grain direction wasn't going to be a problem. Unfortunately I got a bit engrossed and forgot to take pictures!

Drawer glue up.jpg
Drawer glue up
(325.92 KiB)


For the top I needed to do some edge jointing ... the two oak boards weren't quite big enough and having consulted I decided to put a piece of AB walnut in the middle ...

Top2.jpg
Top first glue up
(373.85 KiB)


I have used biscuits which I know don't add much strength but make the alignment a lot easier. The glue up was done in two stages

Top3.jpg
Top second glue up
(381.01 KiB)


After cleaning up with a cabinet scraper and sanding I got the first coat of Osmo on. Not sure if it's just me but I find Osmo a horrible product to apply and am starting to think it's generally over rated.

The top looks lighter in the picture than it actually is.

Toposmo.jpg
Top Osmo
(270.26 KiB)


The buttons are made from a waste pice of Poplar - cut the shoulder line and take the waste off with a chisel

Buttons.jpg
Buttons
(257.56 KiB)


Buttons2.jpg
Buttons
(233.94 KiB)


This afternoon I sanded the table down and got a coat of dark undercoat on ready for the top coat which is going to be Farrow & Ball Railings. I know it's recently been covered in another thread but I also dislike applying Farrow & Ball paint!

Undercoat.jpg
Undercoat
(330.53 KiB)


More to follow as I get it finished hopefully over the next few days as my wife has started to drop hints that the boot rack I promised her a few months ago is overdue ...
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Re: Hall Table - glued up, drawer and top

Postby Cabinetman » 29 Aug 2021, 01:30

Looking really good, I had reservations about the stripe up the middle of the top but I think it works really well, my other half thinks it’s open minded thinking and she likes it as well.
Are you painting the drawer front? I think it would look good as wood myself. Ian
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Re: Hall Table - glued up, drawer and top

Postby Andyp » 29 Aug 2021, 06:39

Oak and walnut. A great combination IMO. I did something similar on a small shoe bench a while back.

Great wip BTW.
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cheers
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Re: Hall Table - Drawer and Top

Postby Mike G » 29 Aug 2021, 07:00

Blackswanwood wrote:......Not sure if it's just me but I find Osmo a horrible product to apply and am starting to think it's generally over rated. ...


No, it's not just you. I hate it. I now use it as the oil I mix in with white spirit and varnish to make a wiping varnish, in a bid to get rid of half a tin of the stuff. I also recently scraped off our bathroom floor, to remove the Osmo which had gone a horrible cloudy brown colour, as it has on our window boards.

Love the woodwork here. Great stuff, Robert.
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Re: Hall Table - Finished

Postby Blackswanwood » 01 Sep 2021, 21:27

I finally got this finished today after a most unwelcome reminder about what's important in life.

I had put Sunday and Monday aside to crack on with this and the next project but got up on Sunday to the sight of an ambulance over the road taking away a good friend who had suffered a heart attack.

Whilst hoping for the best I got the topcoat of paint on the legs. Having run out of Osmo and with no intention of buying anymore I de-nibbed the first coat on the top and started to build up a wax finish. The news then came that my friend hadn't made it so motivation has become a bit of an issue and I just moped around in the workshop not really achieving anything on Monday.

Forced myself to get back to it this afternoon and attached the top with the buttons and brass screws being careful not to drill through the top!

Attaching Top.jpg
Attaching Top
(205.12 KiB)


To stop the drawer banging when it is closed I made a "dampener" out of a block and some leather

Dampener1.jpg
Dampener
(351.48 KiB)


The more astute may suspect that I inadvertently chopped an extra mortice without realising it could not accommodate a button due to the drawer depth ... and they would be correct so I made it look as if it was planned and used it to attach the dampening block.

Dampener2.jpg
Dampener Fitted
(172.85 KiB)


This is the finished item. Ian (@cabinetman) apologies for not answering your earlier question - you'll see the drawer front is indeed oak and not painted.

Attaching Top.jpg
Attaching Top
(205.12 KiB)


The top is actually darker than it shows on the photograph.

Things I'd do differently next time ...

1. The walnut strip works as the person it's destined for likes it but I will stick to oak and possibly add bread board the ends
2. The drawer is a touch too big and would be better positioned slightly lower rather than immediately under the top
3. The fact it's a few mm out of square is most annoying but if I hadn't told you all no one would ever know!
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Finished
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Re: Hall Table - Finished

Postby Dr.Al » 02 Sep 2021, 07:46

That looks really smart. Sorry to hear about your friend.
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