It is currently 29 Mar 2024, 15:29
AndyT wrote:This is what I recognise as woodworking. Time and effort enjoyably spent, on little jobs along the way. Things that only another woodworker will understand, while the rest of the world thinks "Ooh, nice table" without no idea about buttons, dowels, reference points for measurements and the rest.
Cabinetman wrote:Coming along very nicely, had you considered cutting the piece of wood in half along its length to make it easier for the drawer opening and then glue it back together? There would be a glue line but I doubt you would see it. It would have been easier to get the piece you removed to fit as a drawer front as well perhaps. Ian
sunnybob wrote:Can I ask a question please?
On the tenon, why do you cut two distinct tenons, rather than just leave the wood as one long tenon?
To my eyes it seems like an excessive amount of work that just weakens the strength of the joint
Woodbloke wrote:
There is however, a way round it, but too late I’m afeard for this project - Rob
Blackswanwood wrote:
Rob - I'd be very interested to learn what it is even though too late for this one. I see one of the benefits of posting WIPs is the tips and constructive feedback that more learned members can provide!
9fingers wrote:I too have been looking in on this thread at the strange range of alien techniques (to me that is!), implements and the humongous lump of wood upon which they rest.
None of these* feature in my workshop and yet I've made several similar tables.
* I have to admit that when Woodbloke popped in for a coffee and cake session the other day, he did spot a chisel on my assembly table but I was able to explain that away as the ideal tool to remove glue squeeze out from an internal corner and my credibility was retained. He also saw a thick layer of dust on a Jack plane that is only used as a door prop from time to time.
Everyone to their own favoured methods but it does seem like exceptionally hard work.
Bob
Woodbloke wrote:9fingers wrote:I too have been looking in on this thread at the strange range of alien techniques (to me that is!), implements and the humongous lump of wood upon which they rest.
None of these* feature in my workshop and yet I've made several similar tables.
* I have to admit that when Woodbloke popped in for a coffee and cake session the other day, he did spot a chisel on my assembly table but I was able to explain that away as the ideal tool to remove glue squeeze out from an internal corner and my credibility was retained. He also saw a thick layer of dust on a Jack plane that is only used as a door prop from time to time.
Everyone to their own favoured methods but it does seem like exceptionally hard work.
Bob
It is a bit of ‘faff’ Bob, but it’s a way of ensuring that the grain on the show side and the drawer front are more or less continuous and the thinner you can make the slices, the better the match. For all practical purposes, 2mm seems to me to be about right.
I remember the chisel; good ‘get out of jail’ explanation! - Rob
Woodbloke wrote:Cabinetman wrote:Coming along very nicely, had you considered cutting the piece of wood in half along its length to make it easier for the drawer opening and then glue it back together? There would be a glue line but I doubt you would see it. It would have been easier to get the piece you removed to fit as a drawer front as well perhaps. Ian
Agreed, that’s the much easier option, but therein lies a problem with the piece removed, if it’s to be used as a drawer front and that is the bit of wood may be too short as you’ve now used double saw kerf to remove it. Not too bad if a very fine kerf Japanese saw’s been used, but if it’s one with a wide kerf, the gap may well be too much for a decent fitting drawer.
There is however, a way round it, but too late I’m afeard for this project - Rob
Blackswanwood wrote:......Not sure if it's just me but I find Osmo a horrible product to apply and am starting to think it's generally over rated. ...
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