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Inkling

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Inkling

Postby Dr.Al » 15 Jun 2022, 19:41

The boxes I started on holiday have gone on hold for a while as I need to get on with making a birthday present for my Mum. It's going to be an "Inkle Loom": my home-brew version of this (bought) one that Carolyn has:

carolyn_inkle.jpg
(40.75 KiB)


I wanted to add some curves to make the design more interesting and open up the hole (I've seen designs on-line with an open hole, so hopefully it'll be okay :eusa-pray: ). I thought I'd also add a couple of extra pegs to allow it to be used for longer weavey things (that's the technical term :eusa-whistle: ).

As there seem to me to be some subtleties in making sure that the warp (?) doesn't crash into itself or any of the pegs, I thought I'd start with a CAD model, with a fairly complicated driving sketch:

sketch.jpg
(30.03 KiB)


With that done, it was fairly straightforward to turn it into a model for a 3D printed template, on which I can base the real mccoy:

3d_printed_template.jpg
(18.06 KiB)


I'm not sure how clear it is in that image, but the template is made of four main parts, with some rectangular keys to make everything line up properly. More on that in a minute.

The first job was to draw round the template (on some 18 mm birch plywood) and go round with a jigsaw to rough-out the shape (cutting a few millimetres outside the line, which isn't visible as it's on the other side of the plywood here):

jigsawed_out.jpg
(20.29 KiB)


I then stuck the template down to the plywood with some double-sided tape (crossing my fingers that it would come off easily enough later!) and used some wood filler and masking tape to fill in the small indents that resulted from the template being made in four parts rather than all as one big piece.

Then it was time to set up the router table and install a pattern following router bit to finesse the shape:

router_template.jpg
(25.85 KiB)


With that done, I could use the holes in the template to mark the positions of the holes for the pegs and also mark the location of the slot for the tensioning peg with a knife mark:

drilling_pilot.jpg
(15.64 KiB)


The template peeled off fairly easily thankfully. Once that was off I took it to the pillar drill and continued the 3 mm pilot holes all the way through the plywood.

drilling_3mm.jpg
(18.26 KiB)


I then drilled a little way in with a 6 mm bit, flipped it over and drilled through with the 6 mm bit and then countersunk all the holes to an equal depth:

drilled_and_countersunk.jpg
(19.34 KiB)


I then cleaned up the outside of the countersunk holes with a chisel, but didn't take a photo as it didn't look that different really!

The next job was to get on with the pegs. I'd previously bought some lengths of beech dowelling for just this purpose. I started with my bench hook thing with a stop set to make it easy to cut them all to the same (somewhat arbitrary) length:

cutting_dowels.jpg
(23.38 KiB)


All the dowels cut:

cut_dowels.jpg
(22.83 KiB)


I don't have a woodworking lathe and I don't really like turning wood on the metal lathe (sawdust is great at soaking up all that protective oil :( ), but I couldn't think of an alternative so I put a rag over the slideways and got on with it :obscene-drinkingbuddies:

I started by making some quick soft plastic jaws out of some acetal bar I had in the drawer. These screw onto some two-part jaws I made a few weeks ago out of some commercial one-piece soft steel jaws. I could then bore a 16 mm hole in the plastic jaws to hold the dowels nice and concentric without risk of marring them.

It was at this point that my brain caught up and I realised that an M6 threaded hole in a 16 mm piece of wood is a bit optimistic really. It's plenty of material in a bit of aluminium or steel or whatever, but a threaded insert would need a 9-ish mm hole drilled in the dowel and it would be very likely to crack when the threaded insert was screwed into place. I tried an offcut (thankfully!) and proved this was true, so I had to stop and think of a plan B (as I'd already made all the holes in the body a nice fit for an M6 countersunk screw).

After pondering for a little while I came up with a plan to use rivnuts instead of normal threaded inserts.

I drilled a 20 mm deep hole and counterbored it 1.2 mm in each dowel, then set a depth stop in the lathe and faced them all to the same length, rounding the outside corners with a file.

lathe_16mm.jpg
(15.18 KiB)


The holes were a tight fit for some M6 rivnuts, but I added some superglue for extra security. This probably isn't necessary: in the test piece I made, I didn't glue the rivnut in. I put an M6 cap screw into the rivnut and put the head of the cap screw in the vice. I pulled as hard as I could on the peg and it wouldn't come off the rivnut! Nevertheless, the superglue seemed a wise precaution.

rivnuts_and_superglue.jpg
(20.86 KiB)


Next up was the tensioning peg. A quick re-bore of the soft jaws meant this could be held in the lathe, faced and drilled through 8 mm:

lathe_35mm.jpg
(18.33 KiB)


I then used an 8 mm chisel to open the hole up slightly at the outer end to accept the square bit of a coach bolt:

8mm_chisel_square.jpg
(21.8 KiB)


The coach bolt I found in the drawer isn't in the best condition, but the head should clean up okay and the rest will be hidden in the peg:

coach_bolt.jpg
(23.34 KiB)


At that point my stomach told me it was dinner time, so that's as far as I've got this evening. More to follow...
Last edited by Dr.Al on 16 Jun 2022, 08:04, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Inkling

Postby Robert » 15 Jun 2022, 22:26

Had to google to find out what this did and ended up watching a video demo. It makes patterned webbing. Guess it should have been obvious but it wasn't to me :)

The demo I saw didn't explain how the changes in the pattern to make different blocks etc happen but maybe that is obvious too!

Looks an interesting project. Making one could be good. Don't think I'd have the patience to use one though.

You going to test drive it when it is done?
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Re: Inkling

Postby AndyT » 16 Jun 2022, 06:24

You do come up with some interesting, unusual projects!
Thanks for making the effort to document it all. I like following on your thought processes and problem solving.
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Re: Inkling

Postby Andyp » 16 Jun 2022, 06:41

Creativity obviously inherited. Never heard of it either. Please show us the results of what it can produce.
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Re: Inkling

Postby Cabinetman » 16 Jun 2022, 07:00

Can only think it’s slightly like French knitting that my sister and I did when we were children, that produced a woven rope, that was 4? Panel pins in the end of a cotton reel. But this is obviously far more sophisticated, probably dates back centuries. Thanks for bringing it, Ian
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Re: Inkling

Postby Dr.Al » 16 Jun 2022, 07:18

Thanks for all the comments.

I don't claim to know much about Inkle Looms (or any other sort of weaving) - I'd never heard of one before about 6 months ago (when my Mum bought my other half one for her birthday!) My Mum has got seriously into weaving and my Dad thought she'd like one so I thought I'd give it a go.

The fabric made on an Inkle loom is narrow but quite strong if I understand correctly. It's apparently useful for making things like bag straps and funky shoelaces! As I understand it, the pattern comes from the warp (long strands) and the weft (cross strands) are mostly hidden. I might be wrong about that always being the case.

Carolyn hasn't used hers much, but she did make a bookmark with it as a test run:

bookmark.jpg
(26.35 KiB)


Robert wrote:The demo I saw didn't explain how the changes in the pattern to make different blocks etc happen but maybe that is obvious too!


I've no idea :lol:

Robert wrote:You going to test drive it when it is done?


Nope! I'm going to hope it works when someone more skilled in the fabric arts gets it in their hands. I will run a bit of string around the warp path to make sure the CAD model was right and nothing clashes, but that'll be as far as I go I think.
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Re: Inkling

Postby Mike G » 16 Jun 2022, 07:40

Another fun project. It's great seeing your approach to making some of these things, which is not one I would ever have thought of.
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Re: Inkling

Postby NickM » 16 Jun 2022, 08:57

I can see my daughter would like something like that!
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Re: Inkling

Postby Dr.Al » 16 Jun 2022, 09:47

NickM wrote:I can see my daughter would like something like that!


If you fancy copying the design, you're welcome to have the 3D printed patterns: I can't see me using them again.
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Re: Inkling

Postby Stargazer » 16 Jun 2022, 10:24

Used for tablet weaving, dates back to early medieval times, some incredibly ornate patterns possible. The inkle loom is a relatively modern invention as a space saver and can only weave a fairly short length, the original tablet weaving looms (eg Oseberg loom) were capable of weaving very long lengths that were then used to decorate the edges of material, hems, tunic cuffs etc.

Just as an example
https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1168904 ... ch_click=1
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Re: Inkling

Postby Dr.Al » 16 Jun 2022, 11:05

Stargazer wrote:Used for tablet weaving, dates back to early medieval times, some incredibly ornate patterns possible. The inkle loom is a relatively modern invention as a space saver and can only weave a fairly short length, the original tablet weaving looms (eg Oseberg loom) were capable of weaving very long lengths that were then used to decorate the edges of material, hems, tunic cuffs etc.

Just as an example
https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1168904 ... ch_click=1


Thanks for that. It's really impressive to see the sorts of patterns that are possible. I didn't know that it was called pattern weaving.

It's worth noting that, while the Inkle loom can only weave a limited length, it's not **that** short. The one I'm making will be able to do a maximum of something in the region of 4 metres. The warp threads take a meandering route around the pegs and the length adds up quite quickly:

modelled_warp.jpg
(36.51 KiB)


You can also do shorter lengths by not including all the pegs, but I decided it was too complicated to think about all the combinations and check for no clashes so that'll be an exercise for the user :lol:
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Re: Inkling

Postby AJB Temple » 16 Jun 2022, 11:35

Very cool. I had neither seen nor heard of one of those before.
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Re: Inkling

Postby Dr.Al » 16 Jun 2022, 18:31

A little bit more progress this evening.

The first job was to mark out the location of the slot. I started by drilling an 8 mm hole at the end of the slot:

drilling_end_of_slot.jpg
(34.29 KiB)


I then used my edge distance gauge thing to mark two lines, tangent to the drilled hole and parallel to the bottom edge (on both sides of the board):

marking_side_of_slot.jpg
(29.99 KiB)


slot_marked.jpg
(29.37 KiB)


With that marked up, I decided to do some rounding over before cutting the slot, so I ran a 5 mm arris bit round the edges on both faces:

routing_edges.jpg
(41.51 KiB)


There were a few burn marks where I paused here and there, but I was reasonably confident they'd sand out easily enough.

I then cut out the bulk of the slot material with a jigsaw...

jigsaw_slot.jpg
(41.08 KiB)


... and clamped a bit of PAR oak to the board and used it as a vertical reference for chiselling out the rest of the waste. I did this four times: both sides of the slot and both faces to half-way as that seemed like a good idea.

chopping_slot.jpg
(34.22 KiB)


chopped_slot.jpg
(30.32 KiB)


Then it was time for some dull sanding. The faces were already fairly smooth and the edges were (obviously) very narrow, so I went straight to 240 grit in the hope that's enough. Dull dull dull...

sanding.jpg
(50.42 KiB)


Sanding caused a little chip to pull out from the side of the hole I'd drilled earlier today. I hadn't noticed the chip before, otherwise I would have removed the bit & glued it back in again before sanding. However, I found some other little bits lying around and one of them wasn't too far off the right size:

chip.jpg
(15.56 KiB)


After gluing and sanding:

filled_and_sanded_chip.jpg
(19.17 KiB)


Not perfect, but it'll have to do.

To sand the pegs, I made an extremely high tech mandrel by hacksawing the head off a cap screw:

sanding_shaft.jpg
(46.75 KiB)


That could go in the cordless drill and I just held a bit of 240 grit sandpaper in my other hand and kept going until it looked smooth enough.

Before:

before_sanding.jpg
(23.83 KiB)


After:

after_sanding.jpg
(24.72 KiB)


Rinse and repeat....

For the tensioning peg, I just used the coach bolt and tried not to overtighten the chuck and hence damage the threads. I could have made something on the lathe to guarantee the threads wouldn't be damaged, but I couldn't be bothered.

sanded_35mm.jpg
(26.99 KiB)


Once that was done I felt like it had been a very power-tool heavy evening and it was hot and dusty so I decided to call it a day and open a bottle of Breton Cider. :obscene-drinkingbuddies:

Given the temperature forecast, I'm not sure I'll do much tomorrow, but on Saturday I'll try to decide what to do about the feet. One option is to copy Carolyn's one which simply has some rectangles of plywood screwed to the bottom. Alternatively, I could try to make something a bit more shaped out of some real wood of some sort (I guess beech would look best as it would match the pegs: I don't have any birch to match the plywood).
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Re: Inkling

Postby Phil » 17 Jun 2022, 09:06

Interesting project (learn something new every day 8-) )

Nice work!
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Re: Inkling

Postby Dr.Al » 18 Jun 2022, 13:40

With the temperature back down to a much more civilised 20°C, it was time to do a bit of work on the feet. Rather than just having a couple of flat bits of plywood like the ones on Carolyn's loom, I thought I'd have a go at making something with a bit more of an interesting shape.

I started with this lump of beech that I had lying around:

01_beech_block.jpg
(36.08 KiB)


I chopped it into three pieces...

02_cut_up_beech.jpg
(39.64 KiB)


... and shot two of them into rectangles:

03_shoot_beech.jpg
(27.67 KiB)


I wanted the inkle loom frame to nest slightly into the feet as I figured it would be a bit more robust. This is a bit awkward as I've rounded the edges of the plywood off with a 5 mm arris bit. I thought I'd start by just cutting a slot out square and then deal with the corner later. I marked it out with an offcut of the same plywood:

04_mark_cut_out.jpg
(34.69 KiB)


05_marked_cutout.jpg
(28.53 KiB)


... then cut a load of slots with a dozuki to simplify waste removal:

06_dozuki_rough_out.jpg
(32.43 KiB)


A 10 mm chisel got rid of most of the waste:

07_10mm_chisel.jpg
(38.7 KiB)


and then a 16 mm one tidied it up.

08_16mm_chisel.jpg
(34.46 KiB)


I'd thankfully had the laziness foresight to leave the arris bit in the router with the depth stop unchanged, so I rounded over the corners of the ply offcut and then chopped out a bit from the end:

09_ply_offcut.jpg
(33.37 KiB)


That made it nice and easy to mark out the shape I was trying to achieve:

10_draw_round_ply.jpg
(27.62 KiB)


Again it was roughed out with the dozuki:

11_rough_out.jpg
(29.12 KiB)


Then most of the waste was removed with a chisel:

12_chisel_out.jpg
(23.63 KiB)


A hand file (I hate filing!) then refined the shape.

13_file_out.jpg
(45.05 KiB)


Unfortunately, when chiselling out the waste on the second foot, I somehow managed to chip out one of the corners, so I ended up squaring off both pieces and doing the whole exercise again.

14_after_going_too_deep.jpg
(63.83 KiB)


That left the slot too deep, so I used a marking gauge to mark out how much to remove to get it back to where I wanted it to be:

15_mark_for_height_reduction.jpg
(29.83 KiB)


I sawed the bulk of that off and then planed it down to the lines.

Next up is to add some shape to the feet. I played around with a couple of designs, but I'm still not sure what I'm going to go for. I'm probably leaning towards the second of these (with straight edges rather than curves), but another option would be to draw something a bit more complicated in shape, 3D print a template and then use the router to copy it onto the parts, much like I did with the body.

16_foot_design_ideas.jpg
(39.27 KiB)


Time to have some lunch and ponder...
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Re: Inkling

Postby Dr.Al » 18 Jun 2022, 17:37

After consulting with the aesthetics department, it was decided that the more angular shape was the best option, so I roughly dozukied / coping sawed the shape out of one of the legs:

17_roughed_out_shape.jpg
(47.45 KiB)


The bottom undercut was roughly chiselled out with a 12 mm chisel and then cleaned up with an 18 mm one:

18_chiselled_out_shape.jpg
(44.44 KiB)


The angles on the top were cleaned up on the shooting board:

19_shooting_45s.jpg
(29.24 KiB)


After preparing one piece, I used it as a template to mark up the second one and then did the same thing again:

20_outline_finished.jpg
(39.32 KiB)


The end-grain corners were rounded over a bit with a block plane:

21_rounding_corners.jpg
(39.95 KiB)


I then decided to use the arris router bit to round over the face corners. That went wrong in a big way and I ended up with lots of indents where I'd slipped with the router and generally made a dog's breakfast of both pieces.

Thankfully, the feet were quite chunky, so I plonked them down on the bench and planed both sides down to get rid of the failed roundover:

22_undoing_roundover.jpg
(39.49 KiB)


I then had another go, this time using a saw rasp instead of the router, which was much more successful:

23_rasp.jpg
(39.99 KiB)


I'd like the loom to be dismantle-able for easy storage / transport (and gift wrapping!), so I thought it best to attach the legs with screws rather than glue. Therefore, I took the legs to the pillar drill and drilled through with a 4 mm drill bit from above...

24_drilling_4mm.jpg
(33.34 KiB)


... and then with a countersinking bit from below:

25_countersinking.jpg
(35.27 KiB)


The legs are now essentially finished, although before oiling them I'll have to sand them to get rid of the saw rasp marks:

26_ready_for_sanding.jpg
(65.41 KiB)


There's a small chip that's come out of one of them that you can see in the picture above. I haven't figured out what to do about that yet. It goes a fair way into the end grain, so planing more off the face wouldn't have helped. I'll either have to make something to fill in the hole somehow or just live with it...

The last major job (unless I've forgotten anything!) is to make a nut to go on the end of the coach bolt. Carolyn's inkle loom just used a wing nut, but I think I can make something a bit nicer than that.
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Re: Inkling

Postby Mike G » 18 Jun 2022, 17:53

Those feet are a nice touch.
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Re: Inkling

Postby Dr.Al » 18 Jun 2022, 18:03

Mike G wrote:Those feet are a nice touch.


Thanks Mike
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Re: Inkling

Postby Dr.Al » 19 Jun 2022, 13:42

I decided it would be a good idea to deal with that chip in one of the feet. Even if it doesn't look perfect, it'll hopefully be a lot less noticeable.

I chiselled out a slot using my 4 mm chisel to get rid of the chipped bit and make the hole a bit squarer. I then found an offcut and cut it to about the right size:

01_chiselled_out_slot.jpg
(25.05 KiB)


That got glued in...

02_glued_in_lump.jpg
(36.21 KiB)


... and when the glue was dry I could trim it flush and sand:

03_trimmed_and_sanded.jpg
(28.18 KiB)


I then got a scrappy bit of hardboard and superglued a load of screws to it:

04_screws_glued_to_hardboard.jpg
(104.04 KiB)


That made it easy to lay everything out for application of Mike's Magic Mix:

05_ready_for_mmm.jpg
(53.29 KiB)


I've done the first coat now (but didn't take any photos). I'll do a few more over the next few days and get some photos when it's assembled.

I still need to make the nut as well.
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Re: Inkling

Postby Dr.Al » 22 Jun 2022, 18:40

This evening I applied the fourth (and probably final) coat of Mike's Magic Mix, so that's the wooden bits almost finished (I still need to drill the pilot holes for the screws for attaching the feet, but that's not exactly a big job!).

The other outstanding job was the nut for the tensioning peg. I chucked a bit of brass in the lathe:

01_brass_in_chuck.jpg
(40.07 KiB)


Roughed it out extremely vaguely (I didn't really have a design in mind and was making it up as I went along) and knurled the outside diameter:

02_roughed_and_knurled.jpg
(32.26 KiB)


I then finessed the shape with a radiused tool:

03_finessed.jpg
(43.49 KiB)


I then shortened the end a bit, drilled and tapped M8 and then added a 9 mm counterbore:

04_shortened_tapped_and_counterbored.jpg
(34.45 KiB)


After parting that off, I put an offcut of steel (probably EN1A) into the chuck and turned a simple mandrel. The diameter of the plain shaft bit is a close fit in the counterbore, so this keeps the nut reasonably concentric when the part is mounted on the mandrel.

05_mandrel.jpg
(38.18 KiB)


I then fitted the nut and used my home-made ball-turning tool thing to round the end of the nut off:

06_rounding.jpg
(42.16 KiB)


While I was in metal-mode, I used a wire brush to get rid of the rust on the coach bolt and gave the cleaned up surface a light oiling to keep it from rusting again. I usually de-rust with citric acid, but that would have got rid of the plating on the rest of the screw. The wire brush made pretty easy work of it anyway, so I'm happy with that.

All done ready for assembly when the oil has had an overnight rest:

07_finished.jpg
(40.04 KiB)
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Re: Inkling

Postby AndyT » 22 Jun 2022, 19:05

And there it is, for anyone dithering, that's why everyone needs a metalworking lathe in their workshop! :obscene-drinkingcheers: :eusa-clap: :eusa-clap:
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Re: Inkling

Postby Dr.Al » 22 Jun 2022, 19:09

AndyT wrote:And there it is, for anyone dithering, that's why everyone needs a metalworking lathe in their workshop! :obscene-drinkingcheers: :eusa-clap: :eusa-clap:


Absolutely! I couldn't be without a lathe now.
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Re: Inkling

Postby Dr.Al » 23 Jun 2022, 17:40

The last job to do was to drill pilot holes for the feet and then screw everything up ;)

I wasn't sure how best to space the legs and it probably doesn't matter, so I thought as good a starting point as any was to position them on the Bessel points (spot the person who works for a metrology company: I wonder how many people on here would know the difference between Bessel and Airy points without looking it up? :lol: ). Anyway, that looked fine to me so I drilled the pilot holes, attached the feet and then used some M6 stainless steel countersunk screws to fit all the smaller pegs. Finally, the tensioning peg was attached and with that, it's done. Quite nice to have finished it two weeks in advance of my Mum's birthday so it's all been a bit more relaxed than when I made her a peg loom!

Final photo shoot...

Front:

01_loom.jpg
(37.35 KiB)


Back:

02_loom_reverse.jpg
(42.52 KiB)


Back close-up of the foot and nut:

03_loom_rear_closeup.jpg
(26.49 KiB)


Front close-up:

04_loom_front_closeup.jpg
(30.32 KiB)


... and a quick test with some yarn to make sure the warp threads don't hit anything:

05_loom_warped.jpg
(53.43 KiB)


Note that I didn't bother with the heddle loops that connect onto the un-yarned peg and pull the top threads down (visible as pale coloured yarn in this photo of a commercial (£74) inkle loom.

Close-up:

06_loom_warped_detail.jpg
(48.03 KiB)
My projects website: https://www.cgtk.co.uk
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Dr.Al
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Re: Inkling

Postby AndyT » 23 Jun 2022, 19:35

Well, I'd never heard of Bessel or Airy points, but now that you've mentioned them and I've skimmed through an explanation I can give myself a pat on the back, possibly.

About 25 years ago, I put up some utilitarian bookshelves - strips of blockboard on Spur brackets. I thought about how the books on the ends beyond the brackets would tend to lift the middles of the shelves, while the weight of the central books would give an opposing sag. Adjusting the positions of the brackets varies the two effects. I think I got them about right, as the shelves are reasonably straight. But when I can, I'll measure and see if I hit the theoretically correct spots. :)

Thanks for an educational post!
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Andy
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