I've had enough. Time for another really big strop.

[Mike G]

The old one was quite big, but it's all cut up, and the edges are worn out. Time for a new one. The timing was mainly down to the fact that my tin of stropping compound just ran out:



It's just a bit of wood with some leather glued and stapled on (split side up):



With a couple of locating pins on the underside:



The change was necessary because not only was the old leather worn out, but I also couldn't begin to think about how nasty the mixture of T Cut and my new stropping compound would be:





Just a tip: don't use quite that much stropping compound. It can make a bit of a mess.

All packed away:

 

[AJB Temple]

Cool. Expensive toothpaste though.

That's a good big strop. I find toothpaste goes a bit gummy so these days I use Autosol. A strop is an invaluable part of the kit. My best J kitchen knives, single bevel, get stropped very briefly (couple of strokes on an old wide belt) after every use and stay pretty sharp.

 

[Mike G]

Expensive toothpaste though....

No, it was a freebie from clearing my MIL's house.

 

[Woodbloke]

I've just invested in a 'Rider' strop from Axminster which comes with three different grades of leather. Apparently the 'best' type to obtain is English Bridle leather (as used by barbers for their cut throat razors) and although I didn't realise, you don't actually need any stroping compound on the leather. Difficult to quantify, but with this system I don't think I've ever had blades quite so lethal! Seriously impressed - Rob

 

[Pete Maddex]

I use autosol and a squirt of wood silk beeswax furniture polish, it leaves a coat of wax on your blades protecting them from rust.

Pete

 

[Mike G]

But Autosol already contains wax, Pete.

 

[Eric the Viking]

At least your new strop must smell minty!

I still use the going-bald stropping wheel on my "Tormekkalike" machine. It gets a "healthy" dose of Autosol and 3-in-1 (or engine oil, whichever's nearest). The leather was originally dyed black, so it flings black gooey lumps everywhere. It's out in the scullery, where this doesn't really matter, but I pity anyone who tries to redecorate in the future. Obviously, kitchen knives need careful decontamination afterwards.

That said, our kitchen knives are usually tuned-up with a well-used fine diamond plate*, stropping on dry kitchen paper.

*nothing posh - a real cheapie from either Toolstation or a pound shop, can't remember which.

 

[duke]

I don't have a strop, do you find that you can strop a number of times while working before using a diamond stone ?

 

[Eric the Viking]

I don't have a strop, do you find that you can strop a number of times while working before using a diamond stone ?

Personally, with plane irons and chisels, and my marking knife, usually yes. As long as you can feel the tool going off, you can usually save it for a bit. That said, I scary-sharp them usually, so can leave 2000 grit out on the glass plate, then choose which to do.

With kitchen knives, rarely, because someone in the household usually dings or flattens sections of the edge, before it has time to dull slightly. I often have to go through the entire process (two grades of diamond plate, then stropping).

No amount of "don't use it anywhere other than the chopping board!" works. I'm usually met with, "But I only... and I was very careful." The classic is a hand-me-down Brabantia drying rack - I won as far as not putting it blade-down against the metalwork, only to be beaten by it getting hit by glassware, saucepans, etc, (and now the innards of the Instant Pot also).

 

[Mike G]

..........No amount of "don't use it anywhere other than the chopping board!" works.......

That's a universal truth. I don't know anyone who has succeeded with this plea.

 

[Mike G]

I don't have a strop, do you find that you can strop a number of times while working before using a diamond stone ?

Once, maybe, but it is my impression that it very much a stop-gap method which doesn't do an awful lot. I don't see stropping as much more than cleaning off the roughness left by breaking off the burr.........so if you haven't got the remnants of a burr then stropping is doing very little indeed. This is one of the reasons that I don't even try to follow the angle of the honing. I raise the handle of the chisel as I draw it towards me along the strop, to ensure that all of the secondary bevel is in contact with the leather at some point. Same principle with knives and plane irons.

 

[AJB Temple]

My gut feel is stropping makes a big difference on high quality kitchen knives, especially single bevel, but that the stropping angle is not at all critical (as Mike said). Anecdotal totally unscientific evidence: was in a well known culinary knife shop in market district of Osaka which sells a lot of natural stones and excellent range of knives. When you buy a high quality hand made knife (in the shops not aimed at tourists), they are usually not fully sharp. They sharpen it in the back of the shop on wet stones, offer to stamp it for you (to discourage the light of finger) and then the guy strops it on his leg. He's wearing trousers but I suspect his thigh is neither rigid nor a consistent angle.

 

[duke]

My wife is a retired barber and stropping is a must for shaving clients with straight blades.

 

[Woodbloke]

Once, maybe, but it is my impression that it very much a stop-gap method which doesn't do an awful lot. I don't see stropping as much more than cleaning off the roughness left by breaking off the burr.........so if you haven't got the remnants of a burr then stropping is doing very little indeed. This is one of the reasons that I don't even try to follow the angle of the honing. I raise the handle of the chisel as I draw it towards me along the strop, to ensure that all of the secondary bevel is in contact with the leather at some point. Same principle with knives and plane irons.

I don't see it as a 'stop gap' method at all but as an integral part of the honing process, be it on a plane/chisel blade or a decent quality kitchen knife. The strop removes those microscopic micro burrs left from the final stone, in my case a Shapton Pro 8000 grit which leaves a pretty respectable edge. When it's stopped on both sides, back first and then bevel (which I try and replicate) there's a very noticeable increase in the quality of edge, such that I test it extremely carefully.

Most, if not all, stropping compounds of whatever denomination, eventually break down in leather and become ineffective, just turning into a nasty, slimy goo which I suspect is why the leather needs to be replaced. Stropping without using a compound takes slightly longer, but is equally effective and leaves no mess behind. Once you've put your chosen poison on the leather and used it, you can't get it out again; I know 'cos I've tried - Rob

 

[Pete Maddex]

But Autosol already contains wax, Pete.

My strop never seems to dry out since I use the wood silk.

Pete

 

[Mike G]

I don't see it as a 'stop gap' method at all but as an integral part of the honing process, be it on a plane/chisel blade or a decent quality kitchen knife. The strop removes those microscopic micro burrs left from the final stone.........

You missed my point, Rob.

I was saying stropping without honing is a stop-gap. It puts off honing for a few minutes. I also said that stropping cleaned up the edge after honing, which is precisely what you've just said. I would never hone without stropping. Ever.

 

[Woodbloke]

You missed my point, Rob.

I was saying stropping without honing is a stop-gap. It puts off honing for a few minutes. I also said that stropping cleaned up the edge after honing, which is precisely what you've just said. I would never hone without stropping. Ever.

Indeed Mike and agreed, wires crossed...not for the first time - Rob