First shot at an Acanthus Leaf updated with second attempt

[Blackswanwood]

This is my first attempt at an Acanthus leaf carving.

While happy with it I need to concentrate on getting the depth consistent and work out how to better do the creases on the pipes.

 

[PAC1]

Hi Well done.
Do you have Mary May's book or access to her videos (loads on acanthus leaves).
In my experience we never go as deep as needed with carving especially in relief.

 

[Blackswanwood]

Thanks @PAC1

I had the free chapter from Mary’s book on the Lost Arts Press website to work from.

 

[Blackswanwood]

This is my second attempt which incorporates a lot more depth and “curliness” …

 

[Mike G]

I'm with you....the "V" tool is very hard to get neat and consistent.

 

[PAC1]

I'm with you....the "V" tool is very hard to get neat and consistent.

They need to be super sharp and with perfect geometry.
In use, I use a light mallet even for very light cuts that would be easy to push. The mallet lightly taps the V tool along whilst the other hand steers the tool. It gives far more control than pushing and avoids the inevitable slip when it suddenly runs away.

 

[Mike G]

Yep, I do all that, but with the hard heavy grain of oak they can go from not working at all to going too deep in an instant........and can deflect sideways easily when running close to the grain direction. It's all doable, but is very difficult to get perfect.

 

[PAC1]

Carving oak is a whole different game. Last time I carved oak the edge on my 3/25 folded and broke.

 

[Mike G]

Indeed. If only oak carved like lime or walnut!

 

[Blackswanwood]

Yep, I do all that, but with the hard heavy grain of oak they can go from not working at all to going too deep in an instant........and can deflect sideways easily when running close to the grain direction. It's all doable, but is very difficult to get perfect.

Indeed - I’ve been copying Follansbee’s lunette design and the concentric curves cutting across the grain are particularly difficult to do accurately.

 

[PAC1]

Indeed - I’ve been copying Follansbee’s lunette design and the concentric curves cutting across the grain are particularly difficult to do accurately.

Are you working with White Oak or European? White Oak is easier to work.
Check how sharp the tool really is and look at the geometry of the micro curve at the bottom of the tool it may be riding on the back of the grind.
The third point is to consider grain direction working downhill is still an issue with V tools. It is just one edge is downhill the other is going against the flow. Try changing direction cut half the curve from the left and half from the right.
If all that fails try chopping in the curve with a gouge then your V tool “should” follow the curve.

 

[Cabinetman]

That second one is really something to be proud of Robert. Grinling Gibbons watch out!

 

[Blackswanwood]

Are you working with White Oak or European? White Oak is easier to work.
Check how sharp the tool really is and look at the geometry of the micro curve at the bottom of the tool it may be riding on the back of the grind.
The third point is to consider grain direction working downhill is still an issue with V tools. It is just one edge is downhill the other is going against the flow. Try changing direction cut half the curve from the left and half from the right.
If all that fails try chopping in the curve with a gouge then your V tool “should” follow the curve

Thanks - some good pointers and I am definitely finding that not going too long without touching up the sharpening makes it a lot easier.