Startrite table saw - purchase?

As per my other post I just picked up a Robert Sorby Pro Edge second hand, part of the workshop clearance was a Startrite table saw. I’d seen photos and assumed it would be bigger, but it’s pretty compact not that different to my job site Bosch. It’s a beautiful thing, single phase so could run in my shop.

It’s obviously a quality old tool, but is it an upgrade on a modern Bosch? I’m tempted purely on looks and my love of old tools. Need some old cast iron experts to tell me what I have is better!!!

One potential big issue I foresee. I have a campervan which I use for transporting all sorts of big things but how heavy is this and could it be disassembled to be manually lifted into a van?

Hi Matt. when I bought my Startrite (275) we, my wife and I, walked (?) it up four long scaffold planks (side by side) into a Transit van.
The long planks were what we borrowed and I didn't want to cut them. Also meant a better ramp angle.
Initial setup of planks with some bracing took longer than the walking it up.
The saw is top heavy so brace it in your 'van'. Taking it apart not really worth it.

Alex.

Avoid disassembling if you can.
I think once you have the cast table onto your van floor it would be easy ish to walk into the van, pretty much as slimshady suggests .
The lower 2/3 rds are easy to lift,
Two blokes could manage it with virtually no problem I think.
It looks like mine, it’s a great machine and pretty bullet proof
Somewhere I did a WIP of fettling mine.

I'm no expert on these, but it looks like it's in good nick.
My one had one of the handles broken, and possibly some issues because of it.
Top is pretty darn flat on my DS 275 version (sliding table)
otherwise the same with twin mitre slot, left tilting blade,
your future one has a less troublesome fence, well....compared to the twin rail design,
which can slip if things aren't thoroughly inspected,
(I haven't gave mine a through testing since, yet, as said, I'm no expert)
These have a very nice deep throat plate.
There's likely more things mentionable what I'm leaving out.

Obviously miles better IMO in regards to safety, though that's my thinking on the matter,
personally I would question kitting out any machine without an induction motor,
compared to something which will have longevity, and be deemed worthy of a proper job with better materials,
not just a quick lash up etc.
I would consider making those castors retract, unless you wish for the saw to never move and be on blocks.


Not sure if its possible to fit a custom arbor, for trenching cuts with dado blade.
I have came across a thread before on the subject, was it on one of Steve's threads on his Deft/Harvey saw from the other place?
That may be of interest, if comparing to the likes of Wadkin.
The arbor nut is a right hand thread, so it may not be a good idea if you can.
Perhaps, @Distinterior could answer that?

If you're by yourself, you could remove the top easily, socket set w/extension will undo four bolts,
there's also indexing roll pins on these.
The biscuit tin box with a casting bolted to it might be alright standing, if it were going in the back of a hatchback,
I'd suggest a plank cut to fit, wedged inside to keep the sheet base solid, as they're not so rigid when disassembled on their side.

Good luck
Tom

That saw is a 145 model and was the smaller of the Startrite TA table saws. They have a 900watt output motor( if its the original motor).
Not the most powerful of saws, but perfectly adequate for the majority of table saw cutting tasks in a home workshop.
From the look of the picture, it looks pretty much complete and original, apart from the blade guard, which would have been cast alloy and painted yellow, not orange plastic. The wooden fence on the rhs of the original cast iron fence, is also non standard.

With that style of "Startrite Tilt Arbor" sticker, the yellow blade angle indicator and the shape of the feet, I'd say it dates from the early 70's.
It's most likely to have an imperial scale on the black rectangular bar.

The saw below was a 145 that I restored & sold a good few years back and dates from the same sort of period.

The Startrites are OK, they're obviously a budget machine of their time, but very simple and dependable compared to today's budget stuff.

I'm pretty sure that's the 145, so it takes a 9" blade and gives you about 3" rip depth. Personally, I would rather a 12" saw, but seldom do most people find themselves wanting to rip 4" deep anyway. From my pamphlets, it states that the 145 weighs around 100KG.

There isn’t much to say to compare this to the Bosch which is a good bit of kit but very different to a cast iron saw.
One is a stand alone reliable solid but old bit of kit the other is (from the little I’ve seen of one) a useful contractor saw, that does everything but just isn’t as solid and may not outlast the already old Startrite.
Just my thoughts.
@Distinterior you’ve made a beautiful job of refurbishing that.

I would try before you buy on this one.
I had one and mine was totally under powered couldn’t rip 52 mm softwood without it stalling which was a shame as it was a nice old simple saw. Maybe mine had a bad motor.
Not very heavy I could move it on my own, but as others have said it’s top heavy, so easy to transport on it side.

Thanks so much for all the comments guys!

For my uses I think a 3” cut would be ok but noted on the motor size and power. Not sure if you can compare directly but that’s a lot less than my Bosch. If I decide to buy I’ll take a chunk of wood over to cut first.


The extra info on weight and moving is really useful. I am concerned about the feasibility of getting it home - my old van the seats came out but not so now, without being able to lay it down I think I’d need to hire a van making it too costly. I’ll think on it over weekend

I thought that I would miss the extra cut size but it hasn’t been a problem.
I can’t see any reason for not lying it on it’s side for transport, indeed it’s a safer option IMHO.

I always transported mine on its side, and I moved it from place to place a few times, it travelled a lot and is now in South Africa.

Whenever I transport these saws, I use my VW Transporter van. I have a couple of old short scaffold planks to make a ramp.
I use a sack barrow and tie it in position in the van upright wrapped up in old duvet’s.

They are very top heavy.

Although 900watts may sound a bit underpowered, remember that the 900watts is output power, whereas modern saws tend to state input power, which is higher but output power is what counts.

I have restored and sold quite a few of these saws and they are very capable, solid machines.

I have the TA 165 - it’s a good, solid saw. Mine has a 10” blade fitted, enabling 6” rips if flipped end-for-end, but that’s pushing the 900W a bit and you may not want to do that. Big rips are done on my bandsaw now.

I would take the castors off and fit an outfeed table to that one pictured. It doesn’t seem to have the useful rack-and-pinion fence adjuster, but not the end of the world.

To move it, a sack barrow up ramps into the van, one person each end. If you’re both fairly strong, you could just lift the thing in. Lean it down on its side with some sort of packers so it isn’t resting on a fence rail/handle.

I do believe that this is the same as mine which I unfortunately seldom get to use but when I do it is a real pleasure.
Never had the occasion to think it is underpowered but I do keep on top of blade sharpness.

Regarding moving these top heavy machines you can drop the blade/riving knife and remove the fence.
Flip it onto the table and use some form of plastic as skid, things glide along easier on plastic.
Getting into a vehicle with direct access to the floor is easily achieved by leaning the table in and rotating the whole machine over, leave it sitting like that for transport, this keeps the heavy stuff closet to the floor to reduce tipping.

Cheers, Andy

@Guineafowl21 The 165, 175 and 275 have front and rear round bars with the rack & pinion adjustment.

The 125 and 145 have the rectangular bars as pictured in the OP’s photo and my photos above.

The table size is the same on the 125,145 and 165 saws, but the 175 and 275 have bigger tables and more powerful motors.