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Home made try square

SteveMP

New Shoots
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Name
Steve
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blade made from QSWO, body is black walnut. Basic shape copied from one from Chris Schwarz’s blog. There was some talk about the shape of the end may be just decorative but some thought craftsmen used it to trace molding profiles onto stuff. Who knows. I put the little pin in there too to keep it steady by itself on the edge. Works rather well for something fairly quick to knock up.

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Oops. hic! Of course. Guilty as charged m’lud. So why don’t all try squares have a peg like that then?
For the same reason that some handsaws have a little 'nib' at the front and some don't, although I can see the reasoning for having a peg on a wooden try square - Rob
 
I had never thought holding a square up to the edge of a board was a problem before . I guess my 6” square is easier to hold down then the much larger bladed ones.
 
That’s nice Steve, I’m guessing the blade is about 10” long? Did the design call for slightly off centre holes to pull the blade down onto the stock? Never made one but it occurred to me that it might be a thing lol.
Ian
Thanks! This one is a beast, 15” blade. Apparently that was the size of one in an old Roubo photo? You can read about it here

I’m going to make a smaller one for the traveling tool chest but probably the Seaton style like:

 
I had never thought holding a square up to the edge of a board was a problem before . I guess my 6” square is easier to hold down then the much larger bladed ones.
Yeah not a problem per se, if you keep your hand on it. With the peg you can take your hands off and go to your toolbox etc come back and the square is in place. Most of the Woodpeckers tools have it as well, or a “lip”





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I had never thought holding a square up to the edge of a board was a problem before . I guess my 6” square is easier to hold down than the much larger bladed ones.
It’s handy on the Vesper Andy as the stock is solid brass with inlaid timber so very heavy for a square & consequently easy to drop if you’re not holding tight & you definitely don’t want to do that with such an accurate expensive tool.
I find his big square a bit cumbersome to use for marking out because of its weight but it’s a beautiful tool for setting up machinery etc.
 
The trouble with aluminium or a square with a nice wooden blade (Swiss pear or Boxwood) is using said square with a über sharp Japanese marking knife. I know I could quite easily slice a bit off an edge whereas it don't happen with one made from steel - Rob
 
I have never been fortunate enough to see any Vesper tools. I have however seen the old Bridge City Tools and originally wanted one of these but could never find one:

Vespers tools are beautiful I was fortunate enough to meet him quite a few years ago when he was in England, I bought his sliding bevel which is outstanding quality & a friend I work with bought his square but as I said above a bit too heavy for my liking.

A chap I did some work with a few years ago had some Bridge City gear it was a shame when Harvey bought them out as the quality did seem to decline.
 
Vespers tools are beautiful I was fortunate enough to meet him quite a few years ago when he was in England, I bought his sliding bevel which is outstanding quality & a friend I work with bought his square but as I said above a bit too heavy for my liking.

A chap I did some work with a few years ago had some Bridge City gear it was a shame when Harvey bought them out as the quality did seem to decline.
I have an old Bridge City sliding bevel. Its the most beautiful tool i have ever seen in person. Some type of rosewood and brass, exquisitely machined. I also have a newer Bridge City small block plane, and it is really nicely machined, but its a cold all metal tool that lacks the charm of the old stuff.
 
The trouble with aluminium or a square with a nice wooden blade (Swiss pear or Boxwood) is using said square with a über sharp Japanese marking knife. I know I could quite easily slice a bit off an edge whereas it don't happen with one made from steel - Rob
Yeah i wouldn’t use a marking knife with this. Pencil only. My blacksmith made japanese marking knife will even shave off steel blades. I have to use a hardened machinist square with it. Actually have only really used this so far to check square during assembly of stuff
 
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