Cased frame sliding sashes with hand tools

Smashing stuff, I find the different glazing bar styles interesting, I shall have to look at what’s left of the old windows here, but I doubt I shall learn much maybe.

That image is from "Historic England Traditional Windows, Their Care, Repair and Upgrading" which is a great resource as are many of their free pdfs. Found at link

I'm really enjoying this.

Cabinetman said:

Smashing stuff,

Click to expand...

Is that the right adjective when describing windows?
Agreed though a delight to follow all this.

Having cut out the mortices on the stiles the tenons are cut on lower and meeting rails. The meeting rail first (picture heavy so the bottom rail in an additional post).

3 scored lines aren't enough for me not to make a mistake so I draw all over the piece to mark out the waste. Visible line when finished so as usual cut just away from the line (to be finished with the chisel)



Think about knife marks and what will be seen. The extreme end of the knife wall to the right may just be visible (probably to those searching) if on the underside of the meeting rail. I think it would disappear during tapering if on the top side.



Rip right to the finished width of the tenon (I didn't above which wasn't the smartest). In reality the middle section will probably need pared away to fit nicely and it's difficult to do. The tenon face to the left on the picture below is finished with the router plane but the other faces can't be reached obviously



Finish the inner tenon. Easy with a sharp chisel. Note knife wall not right across a visible surface



Slightly trickier middle section between tenons. The gap between these is 3/8" so I start with 1/4" chisel to remove most of the waste



Get it to something like this



Then finish on the line with 3/8" while sighting down the side for vertical. Starting with the 3/8" would be a bit tight and possibly damage the tenon walls





Tidy up and hopefully fits



This one demonstrates my bad stile marking mentioned during a layout post and also an errant knife wall on the underside. The wall on the meeting part of the rail will disappear



Softening the ends of the tenons that will be cut anyway, aids fitting





Probably the most important part in this joint is the space between the tenons. If this isn't sufficiently sized there is the potential to split open the meeting rail when fitting together. These joints are a nice snug fit but not overly tight. There'll be more material remove from the protrusion of the meeting rail when bevelled so make sure things are good at this point.

You've got yourself a very discerning customer there!

Lower rail piece. Haunched tenon. This may deviate from some designs where the haunch is on the stile. The latter allows the rebate to be run to the end of the stile whereas I will stop mine. The latter design would suit running mouldings with a plane or machines whereas I intend using stopped chamfers as a design feature. Many routes to the same destination

There's a line along the grain on the face but hard to see. Top edge is my reference



I used the bandsaw for this part (the WIP is "mostly" handtools!)

1. rip tenon cheeks right to the line and right up to the shoulder
2. Saw out the little square section



Now handsaw to the knife wall



Chisel to the line. I like to have certainly less than 0.5 mm waste so that the chisel goes where it supposed to





Finish cheeks with the router taking the depth from the mortise gauge marks





Test fit the tenon part



Cut out the space for haunching. Plough might struggle to get to the end before striking the far end of the mortise. A tenon saw is more controllable and takes out the walls easily and quickly. The clamped scrap is to prevent the end of the saw hitting the finished mortise wall which would be seen. Looks like I hit the scrap



Chisel out waste in a flash



Finish with router (has to be one of the best tools)





This stile is the correct length but I think I pointed out earlier that I should have left it a bit longer so as to aid knocking apart and when setting the piece on the floor (same with the rail tenon: there must've been some reason that it was cut to length too early). The lower rail is oversized and will finish to 4" wide on the outside but will look about 3" on the inside (it will be bevelled to fit the sill piece)



This is the other side with appropriate additional length in rail and stile




This is the exterior face with rough pencil lines marking glazing rebate. Note the 90 degree turn at stile to rail join. If you continue the rebate down the stile (as is perhaps usual) then you can see why the haunch would then be on the stile and the recess on the rail. I have another 2 or 3 windows to make so I might vary this just for the craic.