• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

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  1. R

    Cut & Dried - latest print run

    Many thanks for the kind words, HdV. To clarify though, this third print run isn't actually what the publisher defines as a new edition. I can't recall how much reworking of the book Lost Art Press would need before they'd say they're releasing a new edition, but I seem to recall it's quite...
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    Cut & Dried - latest print run

    Just a bit of a self-satisfied smugness really because I've just received my author's copy of the third print run of my book. It's been reworked somewhat adding about 1300 words to section 6.6 which was all about calculating wood moisture content. The reason for the reworking was to bring into...
  3. R

    Single word complement to “scant”

    Bawhair, the width of a pube, can be either over or under, e.g., a bawhair shy, or a bawhair over. Slainte.
  4. R

    Varifocal glasses

    I had to move to varifocals some eight, maybe ten years ago to compensate for gently fading distance vision as well as short vision. I noticed the distance thing as being a bit of a problem when I realised I could no longer see the speedometer numbers clearly when driving. I've always asked for...
  5. R

    Splits in oak

    I'm arriving late to this thread, a result of not being the most attentive or frequent user nor the most prolific poster here. Still my advice largely reflects much of what has already been said. You should sticker the boards up (stickers carefully aligned vertically) with the stack set some 10...
  6. R

    Now for the Chairs

    Yes, some of those chair styles from around the mid-1500s to the late 1600s could be quite chunky. As you say you shouldn't have much to worry about regarding joinery strength. Slainte.
  7. R

    Now for the Chairs

    Okay, got what you're aiming for. Slainte.
  8. R

    Now for the Chairs

    I think you could increase the length of the mortice to nearly the width of the rail without weakening the leg too much. The outer mortice cheek is, after all, angling away from the outer face of the leg so at that point the wood is gaining strength. If your design includes a rebate in the rail...
  9. R

    Now for the Chairs

    That's already covered by the rule of thirds guidance for setting out M&T proportions used in corner joints, e.g., where the top rail meets a door stile. The rule of thirds suggests that only approximately two thirds of a tenoned member's width should be taken up by the tenon. For example the...
  10. R

    Now for the Chairs

    More normally known, I believe, as a sloped or sloping haunch. Haunches, sloped or square have only three purposes. 1. Filling a groove in, for example, a panelled architectural door. 2. Maintaining the alignment on the outside face of M&Td parts where those outside faces are flush, e.g., to...
  11. R

    Separating lids from boxes - how do you do yours?

    It could in theory put you into a bit of a spin, I suppose, but I keep letting go of the plane and changing my grip. I'm very boring that way. Slainte.
  12. R

    Separating lids from boxes - how do you do yours?

    The technique I use for separating the lid from the box base is saw off the lid with a handsaw to a gauge line followed by a planing technique known as spanning. Basically, this means treating the sawn edges of both the lid and the base as one continuous length. So, using a long plane such as a...
  13. R

    Best value"Stanley" knife blades

    I might last have purchased a pack of Stanley knife blades sometime in the 1990s, or maybe 2000s. They're so easy to sharpen on the edge of a stone, so why keep buying the bloody things? Top to bottom: marking knife for general marking usually against a set square or rule, bird's beak knife for...
  14. R

    Calling Scottish Cooks - traditional haggis?

    You might consider ordering your haggis directly from that well known Edinburgh crew, MACSWEENS. Slainte.
  15. R

    Circular table apron

    If you decide you really want a curved rail the easiest would probably be to laminate oak constructional veneers available at the Mundy link at either 1.2 or 2.4 mm thickness. It was constructional veneers that were used in the cherry table below, which saved a lot of waste and time faffing...
  16. R

    Lime

    Fair enough, but I did just wonder about your intentions, so that's why I posted. Believe it or not, some forty plus years ago, I was tasked with using quite long and wide boards of lime to make up 18 - 20 mm thick panels. It's so long ago that I can't be certain what they were for, but...
  17. R

    Lime

    Branch wood boarded up might be a bit questionable. It's all likely to contain a fair amount of reaction wood and therefore unstable meaning it's likely to warp quite a bit during drying. Also, being an angiosperm the reaction wood will tend to suffer from tension which tends to be fuzzy and...
  18. R

    Veneering Birch ply

    What you propose is technically sound. It's essentially the same technique that's been used on countless drawer fronts for centuries, i.e., a plain drawer box front gussied up with fancy veneers, cross-banding, stringing and cockbeading. Slainte.
  19. R

    Setting a Mortice Gauge?

    I was taught fifty plus years ago, continue to use, and teach learners the following: Set the pins so that the width of the mortice chisel just barely rests between the two points. In other words, when the chisel is resting between the two points, each point sits above the chisel corners by...
  20. R

    Have I got Woodworm!

    It's probably more accurate to say you had a bit of common furniture beetle in your wood. The frass indicates the beetles have left, but it's a good idea to mark existing flight holes as AndyT suggested and monitor for new exit holes in the future, which would indicate more recent egg laying by...
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