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Always always put the riving knife on.

P

PAC1

Nordic Pine
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Today I needed to cut a piece of hardboard. It was only hardboard for heavens sake. Anyway I had been cutting tenons so the riving knife and crown guard were off. Two quick cuts and done. Why put the riving knife on for that only to take it off again. So that was the decision. But I will stand to the side just in case. Well I nearly finished the cut when it took flight. Thankfully I was stood to the side. However I think it was because I was stood to the side and the push was not fully forward and that caused the kickback. No harm but shaken.
 

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A riving knife that travels with up and down with the saw blade is a must, then there is no need to remove it.
Once had a saw with a fixed riving knife and I quickly sold it on. Good thing you were to the side.
Been there done that .
 
duke said:
A riving knife that travels with up and down with the saw blade is a must, then there is no need to remove it.
Once had a saw with a fixed riving knife and I quickly sold it on. Good thing you were to the side.
Been there done that .
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Sadly not an option as the riving knife is also the fixture for the crown guard, that is why it is taller than the blade. However it does rise and fall with the saw blade.
 
I made a riving knife for my Dewalt flip saw out of an old saw blade (it was second hand and had no riving knife or crown guard) maybe you could do the same. I put a slot in the top of the roving knife blade so I could easily slide the crown guard in or out without removing the riving knife.
 
meccarroll said:
I made a riving knife for my Dewalt flip saw out of an old saw blade (it was second hand and had no riving knife or crown guard) maybe you could do the same. I put a slot in the top of the roving knife blade so I could easily slide the crown guard in or out without removing the riving knife.
Click to expand...
I have a riving knife and crown guard which are in position for the vast majority of cuts. In fact I have two of each. Both of which allow for quick removal of the crown guard because they have slotted holes. The riving knives are designed to be taller than the blade so as not to limit the depth of cut. As otherwise this encourages users to remove the crown guard when using the full depth of cut of the saw. But as such you cannot cut tenons or dados without removing the riving knife.
My point was a warning to resist the urge not to reinstate the riving knife and crown guard because it is only a couple of quick cuts.
 
I bought my first table saw 30-odd years ago. I'd had it 3 days when I tried to cut a piece of 1/8" plywood freehand. No guard,. No riving knife. Of course I got kick-back. The edge of the board hit me like a knife and for a moment I thought I'd lost my arm. I got a lump the size of an egg, just like a Tom and Jerry cartoon, only a lot less funny. I felt sick for days and I still have the scar on my arm. I think it is that experience that makes me so obsessive about machine safety.
 
meccarroll said:
I made a riving knife for my Dewalt flip saw out of an old saw blade (it was second hand and had no riving knife or crown guard) maybe you could do the same. I put a slot in the top of the roving knife blade so I could easily slide the crown guard in or out without removing the riving knife.
Click to expand...
That’s not considered a safe option these days.

Edit: sorry I read that as slotted RK, but there’s a chance of a flying crown guard is there not?
 
Occasionally, I use a modified RK that is the same height as the blade, which means that I have no crown guard. But I use Mr. Maskery’s magnet alternative thingy.
Can’t remember what he calls it but it’s very good.
 
Lurker said:
Occasionally, I use a modified RK that is the same height as the blade, which means that I have no crown guard. But I use Mr. Maskery’s magnet alternative thingy.
Can’t remember what he calls it but it’s very good.
Click to expand...
I call it my magnetic stand-alone guard. Not a lot of use if your table is aluminium though...
 
Lurker said:
Edit: sorry I read that as slotted RK, but there’s a chance of a flying crown guard is there not?
Click to expand...

My Sedgwick 16" LK Ripsaw has an interesting story, the joiners workshop that I had it from had an accident with it where the whole riving knife and crown guard came flying out at the operator after an offcut knocked the guard downwards. It had obviously not been done up very tight or had come loose over time, the riving knife has long slots for adjustment and also open-ended slots so it simply just evacuated out of the machine once it came into contact with the blade, I think it had been a few inches lower in trajectory the joiner would've had a pretty nasty headache instead of just needing a change of pants.

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Wow, that would have been shocking to go through. I know on my Sedgwick how well the knife is secured at the bottom end, trapped between two pretty heavy metal plates, it really must have been loose to be pulled out like that.
 
Lurker said:
That’s not considered a safe option these days.

Edit: sorry I read that as slotted RK, but there’s a chance of a flying crown guard is there not?
Click to expand...
Depends how you notch the riving knife I would think (if it is slot down and back should prevent possible lift). The slot on my dewalt is just angled but I have not had a problem in about 10 years or so myself. I'm not sure if a slot to fit the crown guard is regarded as unsafe in the woodworking regulations but if it is there will be an awful lot of saws being sold that are not complient. I have not read the wood machinery regulations for a while but they make an interesting read if you have the time.

Woodworking guidance sheets from HSE
 
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