• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Another Shallow Bowl

CHJ

Nordic Pine
Joined
May 3, 2021
Messages
671
Reaction score
281
Location
Cotswolds
Bubinga, 238mm. diam.
CSS, 3wheel buffed, Microcrystalline wax finish.
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A truncated WIP in case it's of interest.

Due to thin Blank and not wishing to lose depth due to mounting spigot or socket, mount on support block with Hot Melt glue, also gives addition chuck side clearance for partially forming rear side. Make sure glue is very hot and bubbling.
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Use tailstock centre to align and clamp, use rotating tailstock to support and turn peripheral details in case wood stresses take it out of round as you remove core wood.
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Undercut rim asap for same reason, using close rest support and sharp tools, I work with lathe in reverse for this for ease of access and vision.
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Remove remainder of core wood, maintaining safety support as long as possible.
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Sand to finish and seal.
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Part off from wood block and mount on Cole Jaws to work base, using tailstock support as much as possible for increased rigidity.
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Sand to finish and seal.
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Abrasive Buff finish and wax polish with appropriate mops.
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Interesting Chas that you have the bowl on those jaws with the buttons on the inside. I did that once, over tightened and split the bowl. Subsequently I prefer to have the buttons on the outside holding the piece in compression.
 
As usual Andy, it's a case of experience with subject wood.

Internal clamping with dovetail rubber buttons when you have an internal undercut rim usually only needs the lightest of grips and the use of auxiliary tailstock support to trap the piece whilst heavy cutting reduces any movement risk.

As you say compression is less risky but not always the most convenient for turning sequence or form aimed at.
 
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