Bandsaw stop for tenoning

[Weekend_Woodworker]

I am sure this is not upto Mr Mastery’s standard of jigs, but I have been cutting some joints on my bandsaw which I wanted to stop at the same depth of cut consistently. I had tried a block of wood clamped to the bandsaw table, but it moved a bit and didn’t work that well. My Jet bandsaw has a fence that is tapered at the top which makes clamping a block to that tricky, so this is what I came up with:




It clamps to the rim of the table without damaging it and seems very rigid. I have used the fence from my router as it has micro adjustment on it which is useful. The setup limits the length of cut before it is stopped because of the width of the router fence. I am sure other people have better ways of doing this, but it was what I was able to cobble together with bits I already had.

Best wishes,

Mark

 

[Steve Maskery]

That looks excellent Mark. Good job. All you need now is the Ultimate Bandsaw Tenon Jig!
S

 

[AndyP]

Cobbled together with bits I already had

A man after my own heart. I like that approach.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Doesn't the width of the stop interfere with the rip fence? This is mine:

One end is cut square, the other angled for use with my dovetail jig.

 

[Mike G]

Why wouldn't you just clamp something to the fence?

 

[Steve Maskery]

Why wouldn't you just clamp something to the fence?

Because when I am cutting dovetails, I'm not using the fence at all.

 

[Weekend_Woodworker]

Why wouldn't you just clamp something to the fence?

Mike, if your comment is aimed at my original post it is because “ My Jet bandsaw has a fence that is tapered at the top which makes clamping a block to that tricky”

Best wishes,

Mark

 

[Weekend_Woodworker]

Doesn't the width of the stop interfere with the rip fence? This is mine:

One end is cut square, the other angled for use with my dovetail jig.

Hi Steve, yes I am, sadly lacking the ultimate bandsaw tenoning jig. Your approach looks very simple, although I might boast that mine has micro adjustment !

The width of the stop is not a problem with the fence as it is easily adjustable backwards and forwards with a couple of thumb screws and I don’t need the fence to go beyond the stop.

Best wishes,

Mark

 

[Eric the Viking]

I need the fence much closer to the blade, so I can quickly cut the sides of the tenons.

A previous owner of my saw made up Steve's jig, so it was ready-fitted when I got it. It really does work well.

When doing the sides, the rip fence controls the tenon width, and the length when cutting the shoulders (using the sliding fence to keep things square).

E.

 

[Mike G]

Why wouldn't you just clamp something to the fence?

Mike, if your comment is aimed at my original post it is because “ My Jet bandsaw has a fence that is tapered at the top which makes clamping a block to that tricky”

Best wishes,

Mark

Sorry Mark, no.....I was looking at Steve's photo.

 

[Weekend_Woodworker]

I need the fence much closer to the blade, so I can quickly cut the sides of the tenons.

A previous owner of my saw made up Steve's jig, so it was ready-fitted when I got it. It really does work well.

When doing the sides, the rip fence controls the tenon width, and the length when cutting the shoulders (using the sliding fence to keep things square).

E.

Hi Eric, the fence in my arrangement can move so it is right up against the bandsaw blade. It has fore and aft adjustment so I can bring it to finish just in front of the stop and then set it to any width.

Best wishes,

Mark

 

[Steve Maskery]

Why wouldn't you just clamp something to the fence?

Although it's not installed in that picture, I usually have my fine-adjuster fence installed on my bandsaw. The fine adjustment works on a taper, so to move the fence by, say,0.25mm sideways, I have to move it 5mm for or aft, so if my stop were fixed to that, adjusting the fence would also move the stop. This way, theya re independent of each other.