Buffing Wood

[DaveL]

I thought I would post quick video of using a set of buffing wheels to polish wood.
[youtube]Z7_UgkoIfuI[/youtube]
Any questions, ask away.

 

[Dalboy]

Good little video it explains it well especially to those that have not yet tried buffing using the wheels :text-goodpost:

 

[AndyP]

Thanks Dave, great post and it has clarified a few points and raised a few questions in my mind.
I have just got back from a week away and I have a house full of sick children ( and the missus ). As soon as I can get back in the workshop I will ask away.

 

[AndyP]

Hi Dave,
I've had a chance for a longer look at the vid and with only one child ill at the moment I've got time to ask away.

To start with it seems that I am applying too much pressure as the cloth on my chestnut wheels deflects far more when the bowl is pressed up against them.

What grit have you sanded too before buffing?

I have been using a cellulose sealer, thinned by 20%, then going straight to the white compound believing that that the brown would likely as not remove the sealer. I will have to try the brown without sealing first.

I noticed you increased the speed before applying the wax to the wheel but reduced it before buffing. I would have though the higher speed was necessary when buffing the object as well.

Thanks again

Andy

ps how can I remove the wax finish from an already finished bowl?

 

[DaveL]

Andy,

I do use sanding sealer, just for these small things I missed it off.
On softer wood, applying sanding sealer would stop the buffing working into the softer grain.
I had sanded those bits to 400 grit, I have one of Simon Hopes sanding systems boxes of 2" arbours loaded with grits from 120 to 600 but only use the 600 when finishing plastic pen blanks which are then polished with micro mesh.
The amount the mop deflects is affected by the speed of rotation as well as how hard you press, you don't need lots of pressure, this is not like using a wire wheel to remove rust. When the work has deep coves and beads then lower revs and a bit more pressure will deform the mop into the grooves.
The reason for increasing the speed when loading the mop with the hard wax, you are trying to melt wax from a biggish block, once the wax is on the mop only a small amount is being melted on to the work.
What wax are you trying to remove and why? If you want to rebuff work then I don't think you need to remove the first buffing, try reworking it and see how it looks. I think you can get a wax remover, I will have a look to see if I am right or just making stuff up again.[emoji38]

 

[AndyP]

Thanks Dave,
I thought I might try and refinish a few older items that I used carnuba wax on. I can't put them back on the lathe and sand it off so was wondering quite how to do it.