• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Chisel Bevel Angles

Andy Kev.

Nordic Pine
Joined
Jan 4, 2021
Messages
716
Reaction score
58
Can anybody explain why the angles on some of these chisels is so steep?

https://www.jimbodetools.com/collection ... els-102306

Given that they're obviously old kit, I assume that the previous user had a good reason for those angles on the wider chisels. Can't think what it was though. (I'm assuming that there's no serious distortions due to the angle at which the pictures were taken.)
 
Andy Kev.":nm1wfkfb said:
Can anybody explain why the angles on some of these chisels is so steep?

https://www.jimbodetools.com/collection ... els-102306

Given that they're obviously old kit, I assume that the previous user had a good reason for those angles on the wider chisels. Can't think what it was though. (I'm assuming that there's no serious distortions due to the angle at which the pictures were taken.)

It does look steep, but then a chisel will work at any angle it's sharpened to, within reason. I find when I grind mine at 25-degrees and gradually hone them over time they will eventually end up nearer 45-degrees by the time they need a grind again.

It might've been a case of personal preference for whatever task the previous owner was using them for, as Ian said, possibly morticing, chopping hinge pockets, any sort of rough work where crisp cuts aren't totally required as with paring and such.
 
Thanks. Both of your replies are interesting. They perhaps indicate that the chisels were owned by a pro who sharpened his chisels for specific tasks.

For an amateur like me, that is a bit of an eye-opener and an insight, as all the books tell us that you sharpen your chisels to one angle and that's it (although the gradual steepening of the bevel with repeated rehonings is presumably taken as granted).
 
Andy Kev.":1o48u7wx said:
Thanks. Both of your replies are interesting. They perhaps indicate that the chisels were owned by a pro who sharpened his chisels for specific tasks.

For an amateur like me, that is a bit of an eye-opener and an insight, as all the books tell us that you sharpen your chisels to one angle and that's it (although the gradual steepening of the bevel with repeated rehonings is presumably taken as granted).

There's no doubt that 25 to 30-degrees is the sweet spot for a general-purpose woodworking chisel, but say if you're working in quite spongy softwoods then perhaps an angle of 20-degrees or less could be beneficial for the crispness of cut, or if working with a hard timber like Iroko which dulls tools quickly, an angle of 35-degrees or more could be beneficial for the longevity of the edge.
 
Trevanion":3ni7gto2 said:
There's no doubt that 25 to 30-degrees is the sweet spot for a general-purpose woodworking chisel, but say if you're working in quite spongy softwoods then perhaps an angle of 20-degrees or less could be beneficial for the crispness of cut, or if working with a hard timber like Iroko which dulls tools quickly, an angle of 35-degrees or more could be beneficial for the longevity of the edge.
The late David Charlesworth (discussed elsewhere) was an early advocate of A2 steel which, owing to its structure at the cutting edge, has a horrible habit of crumbling. He found that by increasing the honed bevel to 32 or 33 degrees the edge was still retained and didn't crumble - Rob
 
9fingers":3i6bylf3 said:
This thread is teetering on the brink of a sharpening thread and all that it can lead to.

Mods are aware :D

Bob

Think of it more as a "sharpened" thread and we might just get by. :D
 
SamQ aka Ah! Q!":3gjv6vk8 said:
Popcorn. Jacob. Just sayin'.....

there-is-none-of-that-here-tommy.gif
 
Surely if we're working a back-bevel to around 2/3rds of one degree then we need to be more exact with the main bevel. 33 and 2/3rd degrees could very well be paring nirvana. ;)
 
Back
Top