Convert F Clamps to Parallel Clamps

[Malc2098]

Some of you may remember me recently getting a good deal on Bessey Uniklamps at an online retailer.

Nonetheless, I still think the cost of clamps is high. Of course, I don't know how much it costs to make them, but as much as I would like a wall full of Bessey clamps, I can't afford that many.

Over the years, I have bought cheap F clamps, all probably made in Asia, and many used when I was clamping up stuff on the workshop build. In fact, a couple I looked at this afternoon still had their label on from Soldoga at Le Gua, in Charente-Maritime, when I stayed with some friends back in 90s. I think I can just make out 7F as the price on them!

I digress. I was having a surf last night, as you do, and came across a way of converting F clamps to Parallel clamps. I can take no credit for the idea, but I can take credit for the execution of the conversion of my own, and blimey, they don't 'alf work well! It's given them a new lease of life.

 

[Doug]

If they work well then it was definitely worth doing Malc :eusa-clap:

 

[Mike G]

I saw some Bessey Uniklamps last night in a friend's workshop. They look great. However, I just don't get this parallel clamping thing. I can't see that it achieves very much if working as claimed, and I don't accept that they work as claimed. They still apply a point load, with the pressure being greatest nearest the mechanism, be it screw, ratchet or something else. Given that we've all dealt with point loads for our entire woodworking lives, what is the claimed benefit of the so-called parallel action? My brief fiddling with a variety of parallel action clamps last night left me puzzled, and perfectly content with my array of old fashined F and G clamps (cramps).

 

[Malc2098]

I've built several, about 7, cabinets while fitting out my workshop, all loosely described as carcass construction. 3 of them were with pocket hole screws and the rest were with biscuit joints. I was not happy with the accuracy, or rather, my accuracy, with pocket hole construction, and so I went back to biscuits, and therefore wanted decent clamps. I am happy with the accuracy of my biscuit construction.

I first went to the Dorset store and bought 4 of their 600mm clamps, and later found the Bessey deal.

I have found that for me the parallel clamps are easier to handle whether the carcass is resting on a pair, or on a flat surface and the pair clamping the sides and top. The 100mm parallel faces, again, to me, appear to apply an even pressure over the face area, rather than the point of the F clamp face.

The other difference immediately noticeable to me is that the F clamp rod bends under not much pressure and the parallel clamp does not.

Although I've not tested this, the Bessey's claim their faces are non stick with glue, but I tend to use clingfilm anyway.

I'm happy with my choice.

 

[Woodbloke]

I saw some Bessey Uniklamps last night in a friend's workshop. They look great. However, I just don't get this parallel clamping thing.

I think, Mike, that this is the old chestnut of 'parallel cramps (Bessey's etc) vs. sash cramps'. Both are good and both have their proponents. I've always been a sash cramp user and they suite me; to get them to stay in place on the bench I just use a couple of blocks of gash wood with a deep 7mm housing milled out the middle and these just slip under the steel bar. Simple

Malc - don't use cling film, try brown sticky parcel tape, works a treat- Rob

 

[Malc2098]

Thanks, Rob. I'll give it a try.

When the clingfilm runs out!

 

[Fingal]

Some time ago now I inherited a pair of Woden T bar sash clamps. Massive and about 5 feet long. They are as heavy as Sin and look as if they will last for ever.

Never used them so far and it looks like I have to learn to do the kind of work they are intended to clamp!
Maybe they would like a clean-up?

Fred

 

[9fingers]

Some time ago now I inherited a pair of Woden T bar sash clamps. Massive and about 5 feet long. They are as heavy as Sin and look as if they will last for ever.

Never used them so far and it looks like I have to learn to do the kind of work they are intended to clamp!
Maybe they would like a clean-up?

Fred

I got job lot of this style of clamp a while back. I've sorted out the best ones for use but have a few that need new parts making such as sliding ends , locking pins and pads for the end of the screws.
They are well down on round-2-it list though. Maybe one day

Bob

 

[Woodbloke]

Some time ago now I inherited a pair of Woden T bar sash clamps. Massive and about 5 feet long. They are as heavy as Sin and look as if they will last for ever.

Never used them so far and it looks like I have to learn to do the kind of work they are intended to clamp!

Fred

'T' bars are traditionally used on much heavier work as found in joinery shops (heavy doors etc) and they're more often than not used flat on the bench where they're weight isn't an issue. In a furniture making 'shop I've not seen them used much as their sheer weight alone may distort any work where they're used.

Standard, ordinaires sash cramps (Record, Ax or other makes) are fine and supply enough wallop to pull up anything I make, even if the bars are liable to bend - Rob