Groove in Breadboard Ends.

[Andy Kev.]

Would you say that the groove in breadboard ends should be through or stopped?

Is it simply a matter of taste or is there a functional reason for the choice?

Thanks in advance,

Andy.

 

[Blackswanwood]

I would say stopped as to my mind it will be more aesthetically pleasing. Any expansion in the width of the boards making the top will also be less noticeable to the eye.

 

[kirkpoore1]

I would agree that a stopped slot would look better. However, it would be harder to make. You'd need a good router setup to get a consistent groove since you will likely have to make multiple passes to get deep enough. A table saw is pretty much out. Using a mortiser would be practical but perhaps tedious.

When I've done them, I've chosen to go with a through slot. In this case, the choice is a table saw (good depth, but you need multiple passes), a shaper (spindle molder) (limited depth), or by hand with a plow plane. I've done the latter two, supplemented by chopping deeper mortises in the middle and near each end.

Kirk

 

[Andy Kev.]

I'm inclined to agree that a stopped one will look better. It's just a bit fussier to make.

If I do decide on stopped, I'll be doing it with hand tools, so the bulk of the groove will be done with a plough plane and the ends with a chisel. Obviously a through one would be a simple plough plane job.

 

[Mike G]

I think it depends on the scale. A good thick table top, say 2" thick, looks fine with a 20mm tongue and groove. I've a friend with a table just like that, and it just looks right. If you are talking about a fine top (or an actual breadboard), then maybe the aesthetic choice would be stopped grooves. However, that would all-but rule out hand-tool use, as it's really difficult doing a stopped groove with a plough plane or combination plane. If you want to do it with hand tools, or to appear to have done it with hand-tools, then you'll probably be showing the end of a tongue and groove.

 

[thetyreman]

I prefer through grooves, mainly because it's easier to make with hand tools using a plough plane, it's a bit uglier though...

 

[PAC1]

I made a table last week with stopped grooves. It was only 22mm thick. But I cheated and cut it on the router. By hand it would be a through groove.
I also agree that with chunky tops the groove adds to the design

 

[AndyP]

I'm inclined to agree that a stopped one will look better. It's just a bit fussier to make.

If I do decide on stopped, I'll be doing it with hand tools, so the bulk of the groove will be done with a plough plane and the ends with a chisel. Obviously a through one would be a simple plough plane job.

What are you making Andy?

 

[Mike G]

I made a table last week ..........

.........and the photos are where?

 

[Andy Kev.]

I'm inclined to agree that a stopped one will look better. It's just a bit fussier to make.

If I do decide on stopped, I'll be doing it with hand tools, so the bulk of the groove will be done with a plough plane and the ends with a chisel. Obviously a through one would be a simple plough plane job.

What are you making Andy?

A bedside table. The top will be about 2' x 14" x 5/8".

 

[Woodbloke]

You could always take the groove right the way through and then plug it with contrasting timber left proud; I've done it once or twice like this (the first time by accident :eusa-doh: ) and it looks very effective - Rob

 

[Mike G]

.....A bedside table. The top will be about 2' x 14" x 5/8".

Wow, that is thin. That's about 1/4" thick tenons and tongues.

 

[Andy Kev.]

Yes it is a bit on the thin side. I'm going to try to do 5/16" for the joinery.

I would have been 3/4" but I don't have a bandsaw these days.

 

[PAC1]

I made a table last week ..........

.........and the photos are where?

On my phone I intend to post them when I get back to my bench in about 2 weeks time. I just need to cut the dowels off, sand and finish.