Lean to temporary utility room

[cadman_4]

I have been stalking all the workshop build posts for months but this is my first post.

We needed to construct a temporary utility room next to our kitchen while we finalise our plans for an extension to the kitchen.

I have built my stud walls and fitted a polycarbonate roof as fitted to conservatories and wrapped the walls with breather membrane so on to my question to those with more experience than I. I intend to clad the outside with tongue & groove or ship lap, I have seen some of the workshop builds with vertical cladding and wondered if I could do this with pressure treated pine boards or would something else be better?

We are looking to spend as little as possible on this build so I can build the extension and hopefully a large workshop over the next couple of years

Look forward to your replies

John


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[Mike G]

The problem with vertical boards is that you need horizontal battens. As soon as you have horizontal battens you have a series of "shelves" on which water can sit. Personally, if it were just a temporary thing for a year or so, then I'd build it of OSB, which will survive that sort of exposure. The problem with putting proper boards on the outside is that these "temporary" things have a habit of becoming permanent, and more so if they look half-way reasonable. I'd make sure it looked temporary.

If, however, you are determined to use boards, I would suggest you batten out on the studs, and use horizontal feather-edge boards. They'll be a cheaper option than shiplap, or using flat sawn boards.

 

[cadman_4]

Thanks Mike. I hadn't even considered using feather edge boards. The wife likes the sound of that better than osb.


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[cadman_4]

Mike, I'm going to be working out my board requirements today and have had a thought over night. What would be the best way to finish the door and window reveals when using feather edge boards. I am using reclaimed upvc window and door which I have set level with the outside edge of the stud wall. I'll have another read of your workshop build to see how you have set out your boards



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[Mike G]

Mike, I'm going to be working out my board requirements today and have had a thought over night. What would be the best way to finish the door and window reveals when using feather edge boards. I am using reclaimed upvc window and door which I have set level with the outside edge of the stud wall. I'll have another read of your workshop build to see how you have set out your boards



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Line them with 2x1 on edge on a batten, or 4x1 alongside a batten. Cut the top of the verticals to a slight fall, so that the top board (which should overhang the sides) slopes down and takes rainwater away from the building.

 

[cadman_4]

Hi Mike

Thanks for the help. I have now got the lean to up and watertight as per your advise.

I have put some insulation in the walls and I am going to board over on the inside. Not sure what with yet, to keep the insulation in place.

I have noticed though that the areas that have insulation are warm to the touch but the 4 x 2 framework is cold. Will this cause any issues with cold spots on the inside or should the wooden frames have insulation applied.

I will be covering the rockwool insulation with a vapour barrier before internal cladding.

Thanks again

John

 

[Mike G]

This is just temporary, isn't it? The studs are a bit of a weakness, but wood isn't a bad insulator, so it's not the end of the world. Be aware that these walls don't comply with building Regs, so are only to be used temporarily.

 

[Tusses]

Be aware that these walls don't comply with building Regs, so are only to be used temporarily.

and also .. google maps (satellite view) will update every year or so, and the building office do look at them !

 

[cadman_4]

yes it's only a temporary lean to thing that replaced an existing one that had been stood for 25 years before we bought the house. We are saving up for a proper extension so this will do for a short term to house the washing machine. I did want the thing rusting away after the first snows of winter.
That then got me into thinking of the workshop I'm planning for next year hopefully and that may also suffer cold or damp patches on the walls. Lastly the footprint is the same as the old building so those aerial drones won't be spotting a castle in the back garden any time soon


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[cadman_4]

This is just temporary, isn't it? The studs are a bit of a weakness, but wood isn't a bad insulator, so it's not the end of the world. Be aware that these walls don't comply with building Regs, so are only to be used temporarily.

Talking of extensions we quite like the look and speed of some of the wooden extensions like you see on grand designs. Do you think they are a better / cheaper option that traditional bricks and mortar bearing in mind the speed at which they seem to go up?


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[Mike G]

The speed gain is only marginal. Walls don't actually take long to build in any form of construction. However, you do have the bonus of higher levels of insulation, and the walls being within the remit of a competent DIYer, thus making them cheaper too.