• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

New garage shop

Repairs under way. The electrics sitting on the dust bin are garage door sensors that trigger a flashing light when the bin is full.


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Now that is a really cool idea, no doubt the light comes on as the shavings pass between but you probably just ignore it.
My setup will have the extractor in the “attic” above my combo mc and it will be too easy not to check how full it is, I got into an unbelievable mess once when I didn’t check my big three bag extractor!
Is it hard to use the detector as a light switch?

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There is a logic board controller that includes a built in 10 second delay before it triggers the light. Dust swirling down the cyclone doesn't block enough light to trigger it. I bought the controller about 15 years ago from some woodworker and it has worked flawlessly since. Saved me several times from filling the filters.

If I was getting a sensor today I think I'd build this one:

 
All done with the ducting except for the last connection to the band saw. The ducting to the planer/thicknesser is a quick disconnect so I can move the machine out of the way when not in use.

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I'm also working on the closet door. This is an experiment: a sand filled door. I read about these on a soundproofing forum. It is a DIY solution for those who are building home sound studios. 1/4" ply, construction pine, clean sand. The front face is glued to the frame. The back plywood face is attached with sound dampening compound and screws. It is a heavy beast. I hope four ball bearing hinges will be enough. I have extra long hinge screws to drive into the tripled closet framing studs.

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It is mostly masons sand since I had some around. But that wasn't enough. The rest all-purpose sand since that is what the local hardware store had available. I don't think the type of sand matters much as long as it is clean and dry.
 
For acoustic dampening, you want it to be as heavy as possible. Thermal insulation is generally as light as possible, and wouldn't have the same effect at all.
 
Yes, I was going for dense mass, similar to the walls. The plywood might belly out a little and that may leave some empty space at the tops of the voids. But the ply is held securely all along the edges of the voids. I don't think it will bend much.
 
Plaster day. The work sequence was to trim the wall first and plaster up to the trim border. The trim is unfinished American black cherry, hand planed to remove milling marks. The plaster is a 1: 0.5: 0.6 weight ratio of earth from my back garden : toilet paper: hydrated lime. The toilet paper was pulped with a paddle mixer in water and that pulped slurry was added to the earth and left to ferment for three weeks. Nothing magical about three weeks, but letting it ferment for a while does make the consistency smoother. I added the lime this morning, mixing with additional water to get a spreadable consistency.

It isn't dry yet and will still get a couple more rounds of compressing and polishing to remove trowel marks before it sets completely.D8F5A205-10A2-43CB-A7D6-F830C7B73D9A_1_105_c.jpeg01DE71C9-DE9A-42DE-9AC9-AF5FFE4897CC_1_105_c.jpeg

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Earth plaster is widely available, non-toxic, easily repaired, completely re-usable (if you don't add lime), and is literally dirt cheap. It also can be done in a variety of natural colors that don't fade.

I also like the idea of working with a building material that has been used all over the world for thousands of years. A timeless way of building.
 
Earth plaster is widely available, non-toxic, easily repaired, completely re-usable (if you don't add lime), and is literally dirt cheap. It also can be done in a variety of natural colors that don't fade.

I also like the idea of working with a building material that has been used all over the world for thousands of years. A timeless way of building.
Brill thanks, I like all those qualities!
 
The plaster looks great. Is that the the same technique you learned on the course you wrote about?
Yes, it is one of the finishes we learned about.
Brill thanks, I like all those qualities!
I will say that it has several disadvantages: being rather soft it is relatively easily damaged and it is labour intensive and time consuming.
 
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