• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Oops

AndyP

AndyP

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I thought this was held securely in the button jaws while I tidied up the base.
IMG_4676.jpeg
The rim broke as it hit the floor, even if I could find the bits I couldn’t possibly glue it; it was to part of a wedding gift. I have until late May to try again although the grain on this piece of yew was particularly nice.:(
 
Dash, and blow it. Yes, I've used words like that before. I'm sure you'll get a nice one done by then.
 
Bad luck, I'd advise always having padded rotating tailstock support if offering up a lathe tool to such a piece in Cole jaws.

Sanding the last central patch should be ok on the lathe but if in doubt sand the last stationary or off the lathe.


This is just a cone fitted with a self adhesive pad I slip over my rotating tailstock, as an aside it also serves as an elbow protector when tailstock parked.

padded centre.jpg
Edited: better picture:
 
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As Chas says, or even with the rim of the bowl held by the tailstock against a flat disk covered with friction material such as router mat (best to use white mat to avoid marking the wood).
Light cuts with sharp tools also important
 
I was taking off the very last remnants of the tenon from the base. It had been held in the button jaws with a revolving tailstock to remove most of the tenon. As I was removing just the last 1/2” from the very centre, without the tailstock, it went flying. This has been my preferred method for dozens of bowls over the years and the first one that has taken flight.
The buttons were holding the outside of the rim with a piece of router mat providing protection.
I’ll put it down to experience and a lesson learned.
I appreciate the comments and ideas, sanding the very last remnant of the tenon I have done before. This yew was an absolute pleasure to turn with fine wispy shavings. I was getting carried away with the shear pleasure of tool on wood.
 
Big shame Andy! However it could be fixable to make the same dia bowl, but shallower. If you were to use the paper/glue interface method and glue the sacrificial block very accurately in place, the damaged bowl could then be remounted in the lathe and the offending bit turned away. Easy then to break the joint, hold in the Cole jaws and lightly clean up the underside again - Rob
 
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