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Replace saw blade or renew

T

tony.w

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I’m using a Makita 270mm 24t blade, new £35 and it’s been great initially & used so far to make two oak windows (3 casements each) and its dulled starting slightly burning marking the timber so my question is:

do i accept that for every two windows i need a new blade?

Get the blade sharpened?

Buy a more expensive blade something like Freud quality and spend the money getting that sharpened when needed?

Blade i'm useing
 
Do the teeth have plenty of carbide?
If so I would send it off for sharpening.

I generally have 2 or 3 of the same blade so I have a spare when the blade is out for sharpening.

I find CMT blade economical and decent quality.

Somewhere on here I remember Dan did a excellent write up saw blades.
 
I’m a complete novice, but having to get a new or resharpened blade after two windows doesn’t sound right to me. Maybe people with more experience could say how much work they get done before refreshing the blade. What kind of saw are you using? Does it have batteries, a riving knife, manual variable speed, or constant speed electronics? If it were me cutting oak with my plunge saw and getting burning, I’d first suspect released tension in the oak as the source of friction and would fix it with multiple shallow cuts and possibly a wedge. Are there other signs of bluntness apart from burning?
 
I’m not familiar with the saw nor the blade but could the burning be due to an alignment issue between the blade and the guide/fence?
 
Pete may well have nailed this - if the teeth are dirty with oak tar they will burn and feel blunt. Clean the blade with acetone if it looks grubby and try it again. Having a few blades for different jobs is a good idea. Choose the right blade for the job (tooth count etc). Dan is the expert here on blade choice.
 
Thankyou for your information, the saw is Kity and speeds constant also alignment is good however there could well be a build up of resins or what ever it is. I do try and cut in one pass if possible for accuracy and speed, rip depths range from 30mm up to 90mm ish so my thinking is 24T would be the blade to use IMO.
The blade does appear to have dulled the teeth look all good, i think from what has been mentioned i will get it sharpened and maybe in the meantime buy a new better quality blade, anyone have any recommendations?
 
Bargains can be found on Amazon.
You need the make and part number as it’s virtually impossible to find them otherwise.
I found a trend blade for £17.50 , at least half what everyone else was charging.
 
What size is the blade? My bestcombi has a 16 tooth as standard more teeth mean less space for the sawdust and more burning.

Pete
 
I might be wrong, but I think if you pass a workpiece through in more the one pass, the initial passes will not have sawdust evacuating efficiently and the dust can create burning, and at the same time if the feed speed of the workpiece is slow, then the dust burns for longer.
 
Yep definatly have a small build up just after each tooth so will try it again after cleaning it, think i will look out for another blade maybe try less teeth as mentioned. I think i chose my blade based on trying to strike a balance of maitaining a decent finish, maybe im wrong in thinking better finish from more teeth, my sliding saw for crosscuts has somthing like 80 teeth for better finish
 
Ripping timber you need less teeth.

More teeth equals less clearance and a build up of heat
 
I've just brought some 254mm 48t metabo blades for £12 each which I thought was gvm.
 
I can only buy what's available at the local hardware store.
TorkCraft. Not too bad, getting blades repaired or sharpened, not sure where.
Crosscut on both saws is 60 tooth.
Ripping with 24 tooth.
If doing any angled cross cuts I will use the ripper blade.
 
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