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Upcut & Downcut Spiral Cutters - woo-hoo!

Eric the Viking

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I've had one of each (1/4") sitting unused for ages, but yesterday had the first chance to try one out - the downcut one (i.e. pushing the chips back into the work).

How did I ever get by without them? Just, "wow!".

Only one drawback: I'm using a collet extension, and a 1/2" to 1/4" reducer. That means an "interesting" fishing expedition for any idiot who just undoes the collet extension, letting the cutter drop through all the way. Of course I could just remove the extension, but that's another story (access is next-to-impossible presently) And as everything is steel, a magnet is just an extra entertainment. Of course that idiot couldn't possibly have been me, oh no...

So I have now found another use for that wonderful American idea, the paint tin lid-lifter...

But the cutter itself was brilliant. I felt almost guilty, sanding over the clean, sharp arris it left (in deal).
 
In effect, the benefits of a slicing cut as opposed to a chopping cut I presume.
Partly, yes, partly also because it's cutting/pushing into the edge of the work - I was using the 'downcut' one (imagine a handheld router with motor at the top). The outer edge of the groove is superb, with zero tearout, not a whisker of a splinter, anywhere.

I have a similar template follower that's about 3/4" diameter. It, too, takes a paring cut, and leaves a superb finish. But in the task over the week-end, I've been modifying a tall skirting profile, and was adding a square-bottomed groove where there was previously a smaller, shallower, core box (i.e. semicircular groove). The bottom of the new groove is very clean, too.

There are probably dozens of ways to do this, including a combination plane, but the Incra fence I have (thanks to Mr. Maskery), means I can dial in exactly where I need to put the groove, and no over-enthusiastic, last swipe of the plane will wreck it.

In this case, I'm persevering because it's all about shadow lines and getting a returning mitre to not look too horrible. In times past some, er, person, added a single, non-matching 6ft run of 11" skirting to the hall. The rest of the hall (and the rest of the ground floor's public rooms) all match. The end of said board should be a return into the wall (a 90 degree mitred corner), and it's right next to the front door and very obvious when said door is shut.

The mitre on the long board is still intact and I'll be trying to join to that, once I have the profile close enough. So I'm making about 9" of pretty rubbish profile, from which I can probably get the 3" just-about-acceptable bit I actually need for the return.

I do have lots of the more-used profile stored in the attic, but simply replacing the whole piece would be worse than the original issue: It would wreck wallpaper, etc., and as, Steve probably remembers, the plaster in our place is attached to the brickwork by faith, mostly.

And, if anyone asks, 'cupping' is just an oriental medicine technique... move on: there's nothing to see here.

I hate doing skirtings, especially as no Edwardian ever painted the backs of them! I'm sure Windsor Castle's skirtings were only ever quartersawn oak, but round here it's any old Deal, sawn any old way. And the deal wasn't just green, but probably still growing in the ground at the time it was made into boards (who knows the inscrutable ways of the Edwardian sawyers*?).

I can't get back to the problem before next week-end, but the fun then will be working out how to plant the top bit on - the location of the join can't match the original (because the original isn't actually original!).

Then I get to mess up the actual mitre...

E.

PS: If I really do, er, marginally not succeed, I can just hack off another lump from one of the boards in the attic and start again, but that's cheating.

*My grandpa was one, but he's not around to ask any more.
 
Thread reminded me that I bought this a while ago, must have been a recommendation from here ( Pete Maddex maybe ).
 

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