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Mini dozuki saw

G

GaryR

Nordic Pine
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Name
Gary
I have a specific use for a small, fine toothed saw so I looked around and found this cute little guy. The saw plate is 0.2 mm and it has about 30 teeth per inch. Induction hardened teeth.
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Here it is compared with a more commonly sized dozuki:

85EF1736-94DF-47A4-A69F-BC36B55F5824_1_201_a.jpeg

And a comparison of the teeth and kerfs of the two saws:

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Nice. Did you consider a flush cut saw for your use?

(I have a Gyokucho flush cut saw with plate 0.3 mm and 25 TPI)
 
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Interesting. I've got a couple of similarly small J saws: one bought in Japan from an artisan maker and the other quite cheap from WS Heaven I think. Bit in two minds as I tend to find that I run out of depth very easily and then lose the benefit of the thin kerf and accuracy.
 
My flush cut saw was plan B. It is filed more sharply but the teeth are longer and without the back it flexes a little too much. I don't have to cut more than 4 mm deep so the back on the mini dozuki doesn't interfere. The downside is that because of the way the teeth are filed it is a little rough to start.
AndyP said:
I’m keen to see what the specific task was for such a fine saw.
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These shallow cuts to define one edge of a sloped trench. One is stopped and one is through. The trench tapers in width ~1 mm on each side.


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I see. I think flush cut would not have served your purpose if my example is anything to go by. They are of necessity very flexible and tend to be short stroke. I have three - due to stupidity really - a cheap one from a discounter (cuts flush but scratches, so totally useless for fine work), a Veritas, which is quite good but also can create tiny snags and so needs tape to protect fine work, purchased specifially to cut off oak door frame dowels, and a proper Japanese one made by a small toolmaker in a village near Kyoto whose workshop we visited. This is mirror polished on the "flat" side and is basically perfection and razor sharp but a one trick pony. I won't be parting with that one.
 
Dozuki is appropriate of course. You’re getting great results from it Gary.

A flush cut could be used with an appropriate stiffener (which can double as a depth stop) - a piece of wood clamped to the blade or even just a plastic blade protector. But it wouldn’t be ideal.

A flush cut that doesn’t cut without scratching must be annoying Adrian.
 
I've looked at this for 5 minutes, and I can't see why a special saw was required for the job.
 
I've had issues with flush cut saws on more than one occasion. For example, I've cut off excess wedged tenons after glue up. The saw is entering and exiting the cut where it should (i.e. flush) but in between it had a mind of its own and managed to do a substantial undercut which was only discovered when the cut was complete. I've grown to dislike them and usually find another way if I can. (Sorry, a bit off topic.)
 
Depends what the need is. For example, if you need to cut the bridge off an acoustic guitar, then a flush cut saw is a dependable way to do it without damaging the much softer spruce or cedar top. Or if I have fitted a new door frame and what to cut off oak plugs covering the screw holes, a flush cut is quick and easy, especially so if in an awkward place. The last time I used mine was to adjust pedal blocks inside a grand piano where access is awkward and I wanted to trim off enough to enable me to get a piece of suede in (the aim being to reduce soft knock from the pedals).
 
Something very similar sold in the UK by Workshop Heaven for several years. I have one hanging up in the 'shop outside - Rob
 
Mike G said:
I've looked at this for 5 minutes, and I can't see why a special saw was required for the job.
Click to expand...
Not required at all. In fact, a saw isn't required as it could be done entirely with chisels. However, a thin blade is useful for fitting better into acute angle at the bottom of the cut. A regular dozuki saw would be OK. One downside of the mini dozuki I've found now that I have used it awhile is that it is so light weight and short it is harder to steer than a longer saw.
 
I've got a similar-ish thing from Gyokucho (this one). It's slightly bigger than yours I think and 25 TPI rather than your 30 TPI but it's a lovely little saw. The plate is 0.15 mm thick (I think you said yours is 0.2 mm, so fairly similar). I bought it when I was doing some Kumiko and wanted something with finer teeth for cutting the housing joints in the narrow strips. I'm sure a bigger saw would work if I were better with a saw, but the little one definitely made it easier for me.
 
I had (probably still have somewhere) a saw with a very thin kerf and I had to change the way I cut dovetails. I found my coping saw blades would not fit in the kerf, so had to chisel out all the waste rather than sawing out the bulk of it. Not a major problem, but not something I anticipated.
 
Just4fun said:
I had (probably still have somewhere) a saw with a very thin kerf and I had to change the way I cut dovetails. I found my coping saw blades would not fit in the kerf, so had to chisel out all the waste rather than sawing out the bulk of it. Not a major problem, but not something I anticipated.
Click to expand...
When I've had to do that for various reasons, I've found the best way is to make a third saw cut.....straight down the middle of the waste....otherwise the waste can get jammed.
 
Dr.Al said:
I've got a similar-ish thing from Gyokucho (this one). It's slightly bigger than yours I think and 25 TPI rather than your 30 TPI but it's a lovely little saw. The plate is 0.15 mm thick (I think you said yours is 0.2 mm, so fairly similar). I bought it when I was doing some Kumiko and wanted something with finer teeth for cutting the housing joints in the narrow strips. I'm sure a bigger saw would work if I were better with a saw, but the little one definitely made it easier for me.
Click to expand...
Same as the one I've got; beautiful little saw and used for kumiko as well - Rob
 
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