Knife Fix

[Phil]

Neighbour asked if I could repair his knife, blade is loose.

German made knives (set) which he sharpens and prefers using.


The blade is slightly loose, just pulls out the handle.

Suggested new handle using American Ash.
Cut a slot for the tang using the Hegner, and then some fiddling with a Stanley blade.
The idea is to drill a hole for a pop-rivet to ensure blade stays in, also using epoxy glue.
The handle will be shaped, might even use the lathe.



The tang is very small, not surprising it pulled out.


Started drilling the hole for the rivet, 4 blunt drill bits, used 3in1 oil.

Question - How does one drill a hole through the tough blade?

 

[AndyT]

This isn't from direct experience, but according to what I have read in response to similar queries, solid carbide drills are now widely available at affordable prices and should be the answer.

I've also seen it said that spinning a blunt or broken drill in the same spot can heat up the steel to red at that point, enough to temper it, so that an ordinary (new, sharp) HSS drill will work.

 

[Phil]

This isn't from direct experience, but according to what I have read in response to similar queries, solid carbide drills are now widely available at affordable prices and should be the answer.

I've also seen it said that spinning a blunt or broken drill in the same spot can heat up the steel to red at that point, enough to temper it, so that an ordinary (new, sharp) HSS drill will work.

Thanks, I will have a look during the week what's available.

 

[Pete Maddex]

I wouldn’t use a pop rivet in wood, a pin and epoxy will be strong enough.

Pete

 

[Phil]

I wouldn’t use a pop rivet in wood, a pin and epoxy will be strong enough.

Pete

Pete, I agree.
Here the pop rivet is going to be a pin (will cut off the end bit.)

 

[Phil]

Job completed.
I used a very rough rasp to round over the handle edges before mounting on the lathe.



It was quite enjoyable using the lathe and the chuck.
The tail end was marked and a small hole punched in for the pin.
Between the chuck and pin it centred itself and I started with a gouge.
The chuck end is where I have already cut out for the knife.
I just could not get it smooth all the way across the handle, some marks left, not serious.



Cutting off the end went very well until I got carried away and it broke off.
Fortunately the chuck end held.

The front end ready for shaping. Also get rid on the chuck marks.



Clamped in the bench vice and attacked with some rasps, rough to fine.
Then a lot of sanding. The end required a bit more sanding where it broke off.

Epoxy glue forced into the slot and pin hole.
Pin inserted with some persuasion using the brass hammer.
Blade then adjusted and and left for 24 hours for epoxy to cure.



Lastly some fine sandpaper to smooth off. Then clamped in bench vice with a couple of coats of Woodoc10 interior.
a 1500 Grit sanding between coats. I added his initials on the and bit, CBP.


Job done and delivered. Owner chuffed.



Last comment - the A-Ash is really nice to work with.

 

[AJB Temple]

That is a VERY short tang. Had it broken off inside the handle?

Well done for getting the job done.

 

[Phil]

Thanks Adrian.

Yes tang is short and the end did not look like it had broken off.
I suspect that the rest of the set will also need to be done.

Forgot to add - drilling the hole was a real pain, ended up using a 4mm concrete drill bit.

 

[duke]

How did the concrete drill bit fair after the drilling. The steel must have been well hardened not to allow a HSS drill bit to work?

 

[Phil]

The bit used is TCT bit.
There were 2 in the packet and I like the look of them as spares.
I have lots of concrete drill bits collected over the years as well as a collection of SD bits.