Disston D8 28 inch Rip Saw - RIP

[shafiq]

So, my best ever saw. You know, the one I found and settled on after about another couple of £100s spent seeking out the best saw to rip my sycamore tree. The one that would bring a smile to the face when ripping through massive chunks of lumber.

Well, it had a bit of a concave (belly as Paul Sellers calls it, but I really am convinced that he just talks mainly for the camera and views... but thats just me) shape to it. Forgetting that I'd actually bought it as 'new old stock', I watched a video or 2 here and topped it off with a Paul Sellers telling us the 'old way' of using a punch to set a saw.

Well, I removed the concave teeth grinding down with a bastard file. Followed closely by my Vellorbe triangle file that I usually use with a light touch to resharpen the teeth. Then the teeth in the centre I brought them all uniform with everything else. All teeth now sit flush.

Then I needed to reset the teeth. So instead of waiting on buying a new setting tool. I watched a Paul Sellers vid of using a punch to set the teeth. Broke 2 and the rest aren't really 'set' as you'd call or want it.

Embarrassed, yes sir indeed I bloody am. Them massive rip teeth in the centre, tiny ones to start the cut and a different size towards the hefty width of the saw at the angle, they'll all be dearly missed. What a bloody idiot (me... not any of the shitty YT channels I'd watched about getting the teeth ground straight and removing the 'belly'. They didn't know idiot me would really try to refurb a lovely D8.

May it RIP. Cuts like 'sh*te' now

 

[shafiq]

In fact, let me qualify that. It cuts almost as bad as that Bahco I thought I was smart in buying after reading various 'rip' reviews.


Well ok. Thats not my Disston and I have no plans on screwing over my Marples (Ridgeway!).

 

[shafiq]

Just to confirm what an utter idiot I am. It even says it in the blurb 'Taper ground blade – To reduce any friction and binding Curved tooth line on the blade'.

Disston D-8 26" Rip Cut Hand Saw - 4.5 TPI

 

[Mike]

No need to be embarrassed. When I started with carpentry as a teenager, I was taught leveling, sharpening, and setting rip and crosscut saws on damaged saws. After a few weeks, I was allowed to work on daily use saws.

If the saw plate of the D8 is still in good shape, such as no kinks or bends, then a few missing teeth will not adversely affect the performance of the rip saw as long as the stock being cut is not too thin. The slight belly, also called breasting, is convex, not concave. If your saw plate is concave, then it needs to be flattened and new teeth cut.

I have my grandfather's D8 rip saw, with thumb hole, made in the early 1900's that has been sharpened so many times the breasting is long gone. It still cuts great and is good for a workout.

For what it's worth, I had the same bad experience setting teeth using a punch. I bought saw sets for the range of saws I have.

 

[shafiq]

Yes, thanks @Mike . Of course, convex was the word I meant (dyslexia-organisational difficulties in my brain and everything else... you should see my work areas and flow!!).

Indeed, thats what I will be doing at midnight when my pay comes in, ordering a new saw-set tool. Hopefully I can save it and a workout it is .

As an aside, I was thinking I may try to recreate the 'belly' but I know that seems a bad idea (might go from bad to worse).

 

[shafiq]

Well, as they say that there is a blessing and goodness for us in everything. If I'd not messed up my Disston I would never ever have found this vid by Lie Nielsen.

 

[Pete Maddex]

As long as you have enough metal left you can resharpen the saw. The missing teeth aren’t a big problem they will appear after a few sharpenings. Get a saw set, I like the record ones.

Pete also dislexic

 

[AJB Temple]

I agree with Pete. That D8 can have the teeth re-cut. I have done this in the dim and distant past with both my grandfather and father's old saws. It takes a while to file the teeth off sufficiently for a re-cut but then it is a straightforward job to file down to a score line or marker line. I don't agree with Paul's method for tooth setting. It is the old way - but my dad was an engineer and had used a punch thousands of times. I am not, and a saw setting tool is cheap and easy with no risk of breaking teeth. I would probably polish the blade before recutting the teeth - but I have a power mop which would make short work of it. Have a go - nothing to lose.

 

[shafiq]

As long as you have enough metal left you can resharpen the saw. The missing teeth aren’t a big problem they will appear after a few sharpenings. Get a saw set, I like the record ones.

Pete also dislexic

Thanks Pete. Yes, have just ordered a newer Eclipse 77 (the red versions bordering on a Spear and Jackson look) off ebay. Almost got a Japanese Somax but the 'sharps rule' got me!

Will get back on it and not lose too much hope

 

[Bod1]

So, my best ever saw. You know, the one I found and settled on after about another couple of £100s spent seeking out the best saw to rip my sycamore tree. The one that would bring a smile to the face when ripping through massive chunks of lumber.

Well, it had a bit of a concave (belly as Paul Sellers calls it, but I really am convinced that he just talks mainly for the camera and views... but thats just me) shape to it. Forgetting that I'd actually bought it as 'new old stock', I watched a video or 2 here and topped it off with a Paul Sellers telling us the 'old way' of using a punch to set a saw.

Well, I removed the concave teeth grinding down with a bastard file. Followed closely by my Vellorbe triangle file that I usually use with a light touch to resharpen the teeth. Then the teeth in the centre I brought them all uniform with everything else. All teeth now sit flush.

Then I needed to reset the teeth. So instead of waiting on buying a new setting tool. I watched a Paul Sellers vid of using a punch to set the teeth. Broke 2 and the rest aren't really 'set' as you'd call or want it.

Embarrassed, yes sir indeed I bloody am. Them massive rip teeth in the centre, tiny ones to start the cut and a different size towards the hefty width of the saw at the angle, they'll all be dearly missed. What a bloody idiot (me... not any of the shitty YT channels I'd watched about getting the teeth ground straight and removing the 'belly'. They didn't know idiot me would really try to refurb a lovely D8.

May it RIP. Cuts like 'sh*te' now

Broken teeth, I've had this with a Disston saw, an elderly saw, sharpened fine, but when setting with the "Eclipse" type pliers, some teeth "crunched" then snapped off!
Never having this before, all settting rechecked, even redused, but still snapped teeth.
My conclusion, the actual metal had crystallised whether due to old age or initial poor quality I don't know.

Bod1

 

[AndyT]

When setting the teeth, don't try to start the bend across the base of the triangle. Aim for about a third of the way below the tip.