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Knife handle help

The periphery a bench grinder that you grind your tools with would be my choice if you don't have anything smaller.

Pete
 
Thank you all.

My ideal MO would be:
Grind the stubs away.
Drill a 4.5mm hole where each rivet was.
Glue on one scale.
Drill through the scale from the steel side.
Fill the voids with lead shot (I have bought some which I think will do nicely).
Glue on the second scale.
Drill through again from the first scale side.
Install my 4.5mm stainless steel rods.
Shape, sand and finish.

I'm not sure of the best way to make the scales exactly the same contour as the steel, in any other context I would flush-trim them, but I'm not sure that this is feasible here.

Can anyone recommend a "Dremel" that doesn't cost 200€?

S
 
Pete Maddex said:
I would use a 6mm grinding disk on the angle grinder use the edge of the disk.
Click to expand...
I've not tried that, I'll see what disks I have. I know I have cutting disks for stainless, but I don't think I have dedicated grinding disks for the stuff.
Inspector said:
The periphery a bench grinder that you grind your tools with would be my choice if you don't have anything smaller.
Click to expand...
I have tried that, but to me it looks far too easy to graze bits that I don't want to touch.
 
Angry grinder and a flap disk is quite easy to control (and far easier than a grinding disk). You'd be surprised how easy it is to control where it goes (helped by the slightly convex shape of the flap disk).

I wouldn't bother with a Dremel (clone or otherwise).
 
You can stack the scales and drill through both at the same time or use a thicker piece of wood and cut it down the middle after drilling, less steps less chance of a visit from the CUF.

Pete
 
Based solely on my own experience, the flap disc in an angle grinder can remove a LOT of material in a short amount of time. I use only 120 grit discs with my angle grinder and have never needed a coarser disc for wood or metal.
 
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