Diminished (gunstock) stile door

Do you do all the chamfering with a chisel or do you use a spokeshave or plane as well?

All of the chamfers are roughed out with a mallet and chisel, firstly bevel down then flat until about 1/8" or 1/16" from final depth. Then it depends: the longest sections get a no4 skewed to take the worst of the high spots off. Then they're finished with a spokeshave down to the pencil line. The extreme edges next to the little step stops are free hand pared to depth with a 1" chisel.

The middle size sections and small window bars are just chiselled. I wasn't happy free handing these so I made a 45 degree guide to register the chisel against and made the guide long enough to do most of the middle sized lengths. I was happy with most of these straight off the chisel but a few needed a couple of short swipes with the spokeshave to even out any undulations.




A few slight gouge marks probably as the guide is on the long side and might flex a little:



Then literally 2 or 3 passes with a finely set spokeshave:



Finished horizontal bar:

Just recalling @GaryR delivery from Japan with the nice handwritten note. I do enjoy an unexpected surprise with an order especially if I can eat it. And Woodowl bits are fantastic.

Slow progress but another bit done. Waiting on the glass company actually just responding for a quote but had hoped to have the glass to hand at this stage.



Got holes drilled so I can now mark the offset on the tenons for drawboring. Prefer this to wedging but both work. One or preferably 2 squares do as good a job as this wee drill guide. Check the hole both sides for square...




And then in haste knock everything together and realise you've forgotten to chamfer a stile when looking through the photos...



Went back and finished it properly.



Double tenon holes are offset so the grain doesn't line up, reducing the risk of splitting the wood when pinning. If the grain is running off, the holes might not need offsetting. It's good practice but in reality as long as the pins are properly sized it'll probably be ok.



The pyramid stops look alright with the faceted panel




Bottom rail gets a through chamfer without stop so theres no ledge for water. Hope the glass guys get back soon. That's all the major shaping done anyway.

Wow, great workmanship with all the details.!

Yes that’s a stunning piece of work Dave.

Made some pins/pegs for drawboring. Pretty quick job. I keep all small offcuts from a job in a box until the piece is finished for things like this or maybe to match a repair needed. I split small blanks to a rough size and draw the diameter on the end for something to aim at.



Then a little taper.



This gets bashed through an old mortar lock faceplate with some holes drilled in. Slightly bigger one first l, then what should have been 3/8" but is actually metric and a little larger than 3/8" unfortunately.




I hammer them through 3 times each and it produces a reasonable pin.



Had hoped to have everything together but I'm waiting on a proper 3/8" metal drill bit in the post. Seems difficult to purchase one locally as everything in metric. I'll drill the proper 3/8" hole and do a final pass of the pins to size correctly.

The door is now glued and drawbored pinned. Everything cramped up and then the pins hammered home. Most went in easy except that bashed lower one. Drawbore was a little entusiastic on that one but it went through.




https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMBwz95Kzm52EuZYBlXNAaYabxs7p25ISePEGNf
This little scrap wood wedged stand was great for tidying up the stiles after cutting off the excess tenon lengths and it was lovely to get to work outside again



While I've used mostly handtools for this build and most of the things I make (except for the bandsaw), I bought a tracksaw on a whim and it made cutting off the bottom edge a breeze. I previously would've handsawn this but can't say I miss that particular job. This is a cheap saw as far as these things go but the cut straight off the saw is great. I previously put a knife mark round the stile ends to prevent tear out.




I started cutting in hinges, gauged to width and depth. Chiselled out most of the waste and finished with the router plane.





However, after asking advice on this forum about what way to orientate the butt hinges ("most to the post, least to the piece"), several members noted the bearing hinges and mentioned that staining/bearing failure may be an issue. So I've sourced double phosphor bronze washered hinges to use instead. Hopefully they're at least the same minimum dimensions (or a bit more) of the recess chopped out already. So this is on hold until they arrive.

Seeing that picture of it wedged in situ shows what a work of art that door is. Lovely job.

Dr.Al said:

Seeing that picture of it wedged in situ shows what a work of art that door is. Lovely job.

Click to expand...

Seconded!

It looks great.