• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Mark

Dr.Al

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Al
No, not you @TrimTheKing, why do you always think it's about you? 😜

I've decided to make some marking knives. I only need one of them (arguably I don't need any of them!) but making a few means I've got more room for mistakes and if all goes well I can also give one to my other half to use for leather work. I currently use a Stanley Folding Pocket Knife (as does my other half) and it's absolutely fine so there's no good reason to make my own marking knife. However, I enjoy making tools and I enjoy using the tools I make so why not?

I'm going to base it on Matt Estlea's design, although I must confess that I haven't actually watched his video (assuming he has one) about how they're made. He sells them on his website in a variety of beautiful woods. In some ways I'd like to buy one of his to support his work but the price is a bit steep for me and as someone who enjoys making tools I know I'll be much happier making my own.

Matt Estlea's knives are based on Swann Morton blades. We've got a big stash of the blades for the Stanley folding knife, so I thought I'd base mine on those instead.

I started with a bit of 10 mm brass bar. Arguably it would have been better to go with something a bit bigger but I've got loads of this size. I mounted it in a collet on the lathe and drilled a 9.1 mm hole through it (which doesn't leave much material). I did this with the brass fully inside the collet so that there was no chance of the thin brass getting bent:

2026-08-01-01-drilling-brass_600.jpg


I then pulled it a bit further out of the collet chuck and took a tiny skim off the outside, thereby making it even thinner in wall section!

2026-08-01-02-skimming-outside_600.jpg


In that photo and to a lesser extent the next one, the brass looks quite reddish as if it's some unusual copper-rich alloy, but it's just normal CZ121 showing a bit red as a result of some camera oddity.

Having parted off the thin wall tube and tidied up the rear end to bring it down to 21 mm long, I got another bit of 10 mm brass and shaped the end:

2026-08-01-03-shaping-base-of-part-2_600.jpg


Those grooves will give some epoxy something to hold on to.

After flipping it the other way round and holding it on the reduced diameter section, I skimmed the outside down to 9.1 mm so it was a smooth but snug fit in the tube:

2026-08-01-04-skimming-outside-of-part-2_600.jpg


You can see some of the other parts in the background: I made the brass bits for one marking knife all the way through, then came back and made the other two in parallel.

Each piece then went over to the milling machine, to be held in a collet block. A 0.8 mm slitting saw was plunged straight into the end, stopping about 0.5 mm from the end of the wider section so that there was a tiny wall to keep the epoxy from coming out into the slot.

2026-08-01-05-slitting_600.jpg


While the inner piece was still held in the collet block, I used some Loctite 603 to fix the tube over the top:

2026-08-01-06-glued_600.jpg


I could then drill half-way through both pieces and tap M5. I didn't notice until quite a bit later that the outer piece on this one cracked:

2026-08-01-07-tapped-and-cracked_600.jpg


The other ones were okay and with the crack it was easy enough to get this one off and clean the surfaces with acetone, so I made a new tube with a 5 mm hole (rather than an M5 tapped hole) in it and glued that in place of the cracked one.

With that, the blade holders are done. Next up is to prepare some handles.

Making the handles starts by roughing some wood (English Walnut in this case) round, holding it in a chuck and drilling a hole in the end:

2026-08-01-08-drilling-end_600.jpg


The hole is an easy sliding fit over the brass. I didn't want it to be a tight fit as there's no ferrule stopping the wood from splitting. I initially pondered about making the brass tube quite a bit longer so that it would overlap the rear of the slit part of the inner piece and hence function as a ferrule. However, the wood being gripped by the ferrule would be so thin it felt a bit pointless and making the visible bit of the brass longer wouldn't have looked that good I think.

Epoxy gets shoved in the hole and daubed all over the shank and then the blade holder gets pushed into place, cleaning up the squeeze-out as it emerges.

2026-08-01-09-epoxy_600.jpg


They're now held in place with clamps and will be left overnight for the glue to set.

2026-08-01-10-clamp_600.jpg
 
More pretty, shiny things! I can understand why Matt's prices are where they are, and I can also understand your preference for making your own!
 
Moi, personally, I'd much rather have a marking knife with a single bevel rather than a double. Matt E makes some very exotic knifes at very exotic prices but those Swan Morton scalpel blades aren't nearly strong enough so they'e a big 'nul points' for me.

I made quite a lot of these things donkey's years ago and sold them all:

505292368_9522251524545742_4050373236343782790_n.jpg

...for £25 each. ABW handle, O1 hardened and tempered blades, 'V' point with a single bevel ground using a simple jig on the Tormek - Rob
 
Matt's are £96. :oops: Much prefer Woodblokes elegant and robust design and I would buy one straight away for £25. But nice project and work quality as ever Al.
 
Moi, personally, I'd much rather have a marking knife with a single bevel rather than a double. Matt E makes some very exotic knifes at very exotic prices but those Swan Morton scalpel blades aren't nearly strong enough so they'e a big 'nul points' for me.

Fair enough: to each his own as they say.

I've got four marking knives (well, seven if you count the three I've just made, but I'll post them later once the forum is behaving itself a bit better). I've got two Japanese single bevel knives (a left-bevel and right-bevel one), a Narex pointy bevel one (a similar blade shape to your ABW ones) and the Stanley folding one with the slim blade. It's been a long time since I reached for anything other than the Stanley, so I know I'm happiest with the slender blade. The double bevel means you have to tilt the blade in use, but I've never found that to be an issue and my dovetails are good enough for my eye. I've never had one break (and if they ever do it'll take seconds to swap the blade) so I'm not worried about strength.

As for Matt's pricing, he's making them himself out of exotic woods in small batches. Having just made three I've got a feel for how long it takes and, while I'm sure they don't cost that much to make, he needs to make a profit and earn a living. When he releases a new batch of them there are loads of different options and now there are only three left (two in stock of the rosewood one and one of the cherry one). That suggests they're selling at the price he charges so fair play to him in my book.
 
My top of the range bird's beak knife which is used for transferring the cut tails to the end grain of the pin board. As can be seen I spent much time (20 minutes, maybe) constructing this premium item utilising Cuban mahogany, a repurposed hacksaw blade, hairy string and PVA.

I have a similarly superior marking knife made of much the same materials. I don't have a handy snap of that though, sorry. Slainte.

PS, I can supply plans and instructions if anyone wishes to make a copy, ha ha.

Birds-Beak-Knife-700px-web.jpg
 
Mine's a cut down vegetable knife...uglier than Richard's because of the grey plastic handle.
 
Once the epoxy had been left for long enough to cure, I gripped the brass bit in some soft aluminium jaws in the lathe and (with tailstock support) turned the shape:

2026-08-01-11-shaping-on-lathe_600.jpg


I didn't have any particular shape in mind except that I wanted a bit of a lump where the finger and thumb would go. Each one ended up a bit different but I'm fine with that.

Once the shape was defined, I used a fine toothed saw to cut off the very end (with the centre mark) and sanded the end:

2026-08-01-12-sanded-end_600.jpg


It was then just a case of applying some Mike's Magic Mix. They've had one coat so far but will have a few more before they're completely finished.

all-three-aligned_600.jpg


blades-close-up_600.jpg


all-three-angled_600.jpg
 
Mine's a cut down vegetable knife...uglier than Richard's because of the grey plastic handle.
I think I can compete on the ugly factor because I remembered and found a picture of my whole range of marking knives. Look on and weep all who are jealous of my fine collection. Slainte.

Top to bottom.
1 Marking knife - mahogany, hacksaw blade, string, PVA
2. Bird's beak knife, as previously described
3. Non-retracable Stanley knife, maybe 40 - 50 years old with a blade that's been flipped end to end once and the the current exposed end touched up on a stone for maybe the last 3 - 6 years. I can't remember in which decade I last purchased new blades, maybe the 1990s, and I've still got several replacements available for when the this blade is worn out through resharpening.
Marking Knives-3-700px.jpg
 
.......3. Non-retracable Stanley knife, maybe 40 - 50 years old with a blade that's been flipped end to end once and the the current exposed end touched up on a stone for maybe the last 3 - 6 years. I can't remember in which decade I last purchased new blades, maybe the 1990s, and I've still got several replacements available for when the this blade is worn out through resharpening.

The only thing which moved me on from using a Stanley knife for marking was the slight wobbliness of the blade....but for the first 30 years of my woodworking life that was all I used.
 
Stanley blade wobble is easily cured with a thin piece of old leather (ex shoe for example) between blade and handle.
 
Those look lovely! Beautiful work all around. Before Matt Estlea started making his own, this guy name Kevin something or other on another forum I used to visit (Lumberjocks) started making these and has since expanded his lineup. He has many beautiful styles and woods https://personmakeobject.square.site/

I also bought a kit from CzechEdge Tools ( i lack any kind of metal skills_) back when they were still in business, but the kit is still sitting in my toolbox somehwere lol. The owner was funny guy. I think he sold the company to Lee Valley though. EDIT: he sold it to Benchcrafted
 
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I thought it was time to give two of them a home (the Zebrano one has moved upstairs to my other half's leather craft domain). A quick job with the 3D printer:

marking-knife-holders.jpg

and they tuck in quite nicely either side of the compass plane:

marking-knife-holders-on-wall.jpg
 
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