A bit overdue

[wallace]

I knew the fascias were a bit ropey but

 

[Cabinetman]

And they look as if they’ve been put on top of even ropier ones.
"well you could just turn the front step over as it’s worn badly, Yes that’s a good idea! On removal builder says, no you’re Grandad already did that! Haha.
Sorry to see Wallace, that’s a bit bigger job, just hope and prey the joist ends are ok.
Ian

 

[Mike G]

It looks to me like its primary cause is a failure of the felt, possibly because of pooling behind the the fascia board due to lack of support. To fix this roof properly you'll need to strip it as least as far up as to enable a new strip of felt to have a proper lap under the existing.

 

[AJB Temple]

Oh no. Have you got a scaffold tower?

 

[wallace]

And they look as if they’ve been put on top of even ropier ones.
"well you could just turn the front step over as it’s worn badly, Yes that’s a good idea! On removal builder says, no you’re Grandad already did that! Haha.
Sorry to see Wallace, that’s a bit bigger job, just hope and prey the joist ends are ok.
Ian

They are the original ones to the house, 1950. I'm one of the last to have its original cast aluminium guttering. Its actually worn through in places. There's one old timer who still has his crittal type windows. Post war housing at its best.

It looks to me like its primary cause is a failure of the felt, possibly because of pooling behind the the fascia board due to lack of support. To fix this roof properly you'll need to strip it as least as far up as to enable a new strip of felt to have a proper lap under the existing.

That was my plan, I reckon another row of tiles off might be enough. There's is a few houses still in authority ownership and they used some kind of thick membrane. Generally people just have soffits covered over and use extra long nails to secure the fascias. Someone local was told they couldn't have the soffits removed because they were asbestos. Its only cement board.

Oh no. Have you got a scaffold tower?

I have but its a cheap crappy thing, only about 5' square, I have a couple of very stout ladders to work off. Ideally I'd like scaffolding to be able to walk the length.

 

[Mike G]

If you're doing anything other than inspecting, please organise some scaffolding. Taking the gutter off alone from a ladder would be a seriously dangerous operation, to start with, never mind removing and replacing battens, trying to roll felt out, handling a long fascia board, and finally tiling out over the top of the ladder. Grab some scaffolding off Ebay or Marketplace, and sell it on again afterwards......if you don't want to pay someone to erect one for you.

 

[SamQ aka Ah! Q!]

If you're doing anything other than inspecting, please organise some scaffolding. Taking the gutter off alone from a ladder would be a seriously dangerous operation, to start with, never mind removing and replacing battens, trying to roll felt out, handling a long fascia board, and finally tiling out over the top of the ladder. Grab some scaffolding off Ebay or Marketplace, and sell it on again afterwards......if you don't want to pay someone to erect one for you.

Seconded, with feeling! I tried working off a ladder on my gutters, 26' above the ground (1903 detached villa) and it was seriously unwise.

Paradoxically, putting weight (slates) onto the scaff made it steadier. That 2'-3' walkway, depending on make, is a boon when refixing guttering as someone says above.

 

[Alasdair]

I 3rd that, please do not do this from Ladders I've seen too many accidents and near misses with people falling from ladders. It's my pet hate with some of teh YouTubers (especially Americans for some reason) who think that they are invincible and produce these 'how to' videos where they can be seen walking around on rooves not harnessed on or when they have a harness the rope is so long they will be on the ground before it catches them or they try and tell every one that a snatch block will catch them so dont worry (when it wont or if it does they are lone working and potentially could be left hanging until rescue appears (more serious than it sounds). Then you have the woodworkers or worse metal workers who can float about their shops in Crocs (other crap plastic footwear is available), desert wellies (sandals) or barefoot.

Apologies for:
The rant
If you're American
If you like Crocs

 

[Mike G]

Just to be clear.....it's perfectly OK to walk around on a roof unharnessed if you have a full scaffold at eaves level.

 

[Woodbloke]

I used to be OK up a ladder doing minor stuff (nothing like mentioned here with guttering and such like) but these days it's a complete nae. Even so, when and if I have to, SWIMBO is always standing on the bottom rung - Rob

 

[Lurker]

I used to be OK up a ladder doing minor stuff (nothing like mentioned here with guttering and such like) but these days it's a complete nae. Even so, when and if I have to, SWIMBO is always standing on the bottom rung - Rob

Is that so you have something soft to land on

 

[duke]

I 3rd that, please do not do this from Ladders I've seen too many accidents and near misses with people falling from ladders. It's my pet hate with some of teh YouTubers (especially Americans for some reason) who think that they are invincible and produce these 'how to' videos where they can be seen walking around on rooves not harnessed on or when they have a harness the rope is so long they will be on the ground before it catches them or they try and tell every one that a snatch block will catch them so dont worry (when it wont or if it does they are lone working and potentially could be left hanging until rescue appears (more serious than it sounds). Then you have the woodworkers or worse metal workers who can float about their shops in Crocs (other crap plastic footwear is available), desert wellies (sandals) or barefoot.

Apologies for:
The rant
If you're American
If you like Crocs

I do like Crocs but not in the shop, on roof or job site.

 

[wallace]

Advice heeded

 

[Woodbloke]

Is that so you have something soft to land on

Sorry Lurker, that isn't the remotest bit funny - Rob

 

[AJB Temple]

Well done Wallace. Wise decision. Out of interest, did you buy those? All looks brand new.

and...that curved bench in the background looks interesting.

 

[wallace]

Well done Wallace. Wise decision. Out of interest, did you buy those? All looks brand new.

and...that curved bench in the background looks interesting.

Yes I bought them, I looked into buying some proper stuff but prices are silly. I have a small set of this cheap stuff but its only 4by4' and I dont like it. Far too wobbly. The last time I used it I had it secured to the wall and propped and it still felt dodgy.
This stuff is 8by4' and was only £300 including 5 small boards. I got 2 sets and some long planks so I sould be able to do the full length.

The seats are curved church pews in pitch pine. I bought a few of them years ago. They only had one end. They have been outside for about 5years and are starting to suffer. The old glue is failing. They are nice for family gatherings

 

[wallace]

 

[Cabinetman]

View attachment 26751

Well you’re certainly not hanging about Wallace, I’ve seen towers like that with struts out at an angle, does your's need them?
I’m a bit belt and braces when it comes to heights lol.

 

[Stuart]

Well you’re certainly not hanging about Wallace, I’ve seen towers like that with struts out at an angle, does your's need them?
I’m a bit belt and braces when it comes to heights lol.

Outriggers Ian. Can seriously aid stability. The old rule of thumb used to be no higher than 3 1/2 times minimum base dimension and outriggers obviously meant you could go higher.

Not sure if this is still the ‘rule’ as it’s been a while!

 

[AJB Temple]

My tower has outriggers and they make a big difference (I am scared of heights so I don't like the tower moving) but almost as good and very easy is to tie the tower to the building or roof if you fix an eyelet or two in. I do this when I am doing tall hedges - tie on to the tree trunk.

 

[wallace]

Well you’re certainly not hanging about Wallace, I’ve seen towers like that with struts out at an angle, does your's need them?
I’m a bit belt and braces when it comes to heights lol.

It is surprisingly sturdy sideways because both sets are joined, I was going to use a couple of ladders as outriggers and attach the top to the wall or rafter.

 

[SamQ aka Ah! Q!]

It is surprisingly sturdy sideways because both sets are joined, I was going to use a couple of ladders as outriggers and attach the top to the wall or rafter.

Mark, the other way of anchoring is rope or slings tied off to beams inside convenient windows? You do need to pad the beam ends as wallpaper can take a knock, but the ropes don't need to be pulled tight, just the slack taken up.

 

[wallace]

Its nice to see the company who installed my windows kept the 1970's newspaper gap filler used in the previous windows



I got the soffits off today, rafters are a bit rotten on the tops. I might treat the rot and attach some fresh timber to the sides.

 

[AJB Temple]

 

[meccarroll]

The rafter bottoms don't look too bad so I would go with what you have suggested regarding treatment.

When I've done this type of work I have used firings nailed on top of the rafter feet then ply strips nailed on top of firings and rafters to prevent the new felt from sagging again. I would also consider intorducing ventilation either on the new facia or in the soffit. My apologies if you already have this in hand. Mark

 

[wallace]

The rafter bottoms don't look too bad so I would go with what you have suggested regarding treatment.

When I've done this type of work I have used firings nailed on top of the rafter feet then ply strips nailed on top of firings and rafters to prevent the new felt from sagging again. I would also consider intorducing ventilation either on the new facia or in the soffit. My apologies if you already have this in hand. Mark

Thanks for that, I'm not sure if it was a poor design but the fascia was fixed to the rafter in a way to create a flat spot where water could pool.

 

[Blackswanwood]

What is a firing please?

 

[Robert]

What is a firing please?

I believe it is another name for a wedge shaped strip - thicker one end than the other. And I guess it has 2 r's in the spelling.

 

[Blackswanwood]

I believe it is another name for a wedge shaped strip - thicker one end than the other. And I guess it has 2 r's in the spelling.

Thanks

 

[wallace]

Finally got this finished between lots of rain. I was putting the last couple of tiles on and dropped one. I'd already used the spares I had so had to go searching in reclamation yards to get some.



Next on this years swmbo list is a new lawn, I'm going with turf because I dont think seed will do well with the weather at the moment. Plus its only a little area.
Also I want to make a new gate and maybe some kind of arch in oak. I've always liked those little rooved shelters you get in old cemeteries. Might look a bit odd around here but I think I'm already called the weird bloke who gets scrap delivered. Wife wants the gate to be higher and maybe arched.



On the 28th March the gate alligns with the setting sun, I call it gate henge. The whole gateway is bright light.

 

[Cabinetman]

You could check out Mike G’s long running thread, some quite recent drawings of just that type of roofed gateway.
That Wisteria is doing well, can be almost a nuisance sometimes but beautiful.
Ian

 

[RogerS]

We get a lot of rain. Sown some grass seed from Westland. Sprouted in 4 days. Brilliant stuff. Forget turf IMO.

 

[wallace]

You could check out Mike G’s long running thread, some quite recent drawings of just that type of roofed gateway.
That Wisteria is doing well, can be almost a nuisance sometimes but beautiful.
Ian

The wisteria was planted elsewhere for 5years and really didnt do well, I moved it to this spot which it seems to like, I have to stop it from growing under the roof tiles every year. I understand you have to be quite brutal to get them to flower nicely. There is eye rawl bolts with wire running between for it to hang off.

What kind of prep did you do Roger? I was going to chuck some sharp sand and compost down.

 

[wallace]

You could check out Mike G’s long running thread, some quite recent drawings of just that type of roofed gateway.

I just had a look at his front porch, the front portion is the type of thing I want. As a side note has anyone bought new oak sleepers before, seems a cheap way to get oak, I can get them for £28 and have plenty of machines to process them.

 

[Cabinetman]

I’ve never used them but I imagine they won’t be very dry, which for an outdoor frame would be ok as long as you bear shrinkage in mind. And don’t leave any sat on your cast iron machines for too long damhik!

 

[Trevanion]

I just had a look at his front porch, the front portion is the type of thing I want. As a side note has anyone bought new oak sleepers before, seems a cheap way to get oak, I can get them for £28 and have plenty of machines to process them.

Yes, we've got a stack of the "Spanish Oak" ones that we had for peanuts (£12 each, builders merchant was having a clear out) sticked out for when builders want lintels and fireplace mantles which isn't often but it's nice to have it on hand when they do. They're quite characterful with some large knots and cracks, sometimes quite a lot of sapwood as well so probably best if you can to sort throught a stack and pick out the better ones without so much sapwood on.

When processing it be careful of ironwork, sometimes there can be massive steel "S" staples in the ends to prevent cracks from developing further and these can be painted over or go black from the tannin reaction so can be difficult to spot, you certainly notice them when you rip through them on the bandsaw. Make sure to clean your machines down regularly as well as it's generally very high in moisture content so the shavings will turn cast iron black very quickly.

 

[thetyreman]

I heard a guy on the bus the other day telling somebody to stuff paper into gaps, why people do this I will never understand, I wonder where the idea came from and why people started doing it?

 

[Mike G]

Stuffing paper into gaps is OK if it is to stop the filler or plaster or caulking or mortar or whatever from falling through as you tool it. But that's all.

 

[RogerS]

What kind of prep did you do Roger?

Very little! I broke up the surface a little with one of these


Spread the seed. Rake over the loose earth, trod it down. Didn't bother making sure every seed was covered. Some water. That's it.

 

[Tiresias]

Stuffing paper into gaps is OK if it is to stop the filler or plaster or caulking or mortar or whatever from falling through as you tool it. But that's all.

+1. I’d prefer it to foam filler for example. For that specific purpose.

thetyreman may be interested in paragraph 2 of this:



Published originally under the auspices of the Edinburgh New Town Conservation Committee. This is from my very early version. Subsequently published as a more proper book.

Care and Conservation of Georgian Houses: A Maintenance Manual for Edinburgh New Town ISBN-10: 0851397875

It is, of course, amusing to consider what newspapers one should use. Downloaded ones won’t work.

Oh, and RogerS, I can beat your goat hair; last time I did some lime patching I used combings from our teckel (wire haired dachshund). Only time will tell if it is efficacious.