A guide to hard wax finishes which might be useful

[AndyT]

I've no wish to re-open discussion about the exact composition or marketing of any particular brand, but I've just watched a YouTube video about hard wax oils which struck me as carefully researched and clearly presented, so I thought I'd give it a mention.

It's by Nick Engler on his Workshop Companion channel here:

It's a US video so many of the specific products are American, but some are sold here too. I thought the general information on what goes into them, how they should be applied and what they cost might provide a useful reference source for anyone who wants to understand a bit more or is curious about some of the newer products around.

 

[Woodbloke]

The Rubio stuff was used on the frame of my recent completed project and it's pretty good stuff but requires 48hrs before anything else can be applied. It's also a matt finish which may not be suitable so an additional coat of wax is beneficial. The finish using Odie's Oil can be seen here and can be achieved after just one hour's curing time - Rob

 

[GeoffW]

Thanks for sharing that Andy,

I usually find Nick's videos informative and easy to watch.
That one was timely for me, as I'm looking for a decent hard wax oil at the moment.

Cheers
Geoff

 

[Steve Maskery]

Thank you for that, Andy, that was most very informative.
I've used Osmo for years, it is my general GoTo finish, but by his reckoning, there are even better versions out there.
I've also uses something similar with Tree in the name but the exact name escapes me. Maybe Doug will know as Craig sells it at Rainworth.
I've been very happy with it for years. I like the colour (particularly if I have used BLO underneath it, especialy on oak).
The main problem for me is that I don't use it very often, so there is always a cured carpet of the stuff in the tin when I open it. I bet I waste more than I use. The idea of making my own is very appealing. I shall have to investigate how easy it is to obtain the ingredients over here.
S

 

[AJB Temple]

Having now made 6 tables in the past two years and tried several of these finishes, for furniture I like Rubio 2 pack and much cheaper Osmo or Fiddes for doors and floors. But what makes an enormous difference to finish and durability is the new tech nano finishes such as N3. These are transformational. Costly though. We made a very large table in highly figured and very expensive wood, finished wih 2 pack Rubio (which was good) and then N3. It is incredibly tough and will not allow water or wine stains, handles hot plates. £££ but well worth it given that we spent £1200 on wood and hours and hours of labour.

If I was doing this commercially at high end, then I would also invest in fast cure UV system which cures the finish perfectly in seconds. This deals with all the dust spotting issues that afflict finishes in a typical workshop. The technology has moved on markedly. Well within the bounds of adept DIY.

 

[HughesStewart]

I painted mine with a basic primer plus latex paint and it's held up great for years. Helps keep chalk dust down and makes it easier to clean.

 

[HughesStewart]

I used chalk paint on mine and it worked out way better than I expected. Goes on smooth and dries fast, plus it’s got a nice matte look that doesn’t reflect your headlamp during late sessions. I didn’t bother sealing it and it’s held up fine after a few months of regular climbing. If you're into a bit of color or making sections pop, chalk paint is a fun, easy way to do it.

 

[Doug]

I've also uses something similar with Tree in the name but the exact name escapes me. Maybe Doug will know as Craig sells it at Rainworth.

Sorry only just seen this, Treatex is the brand name you’re looking for @Steve Maskery.
The late John Berkeley used to recommend it very highly & was the reason I first tried it & still use it as I’ve found nothing superior & it is certainly considerably cheaper than the alternatives I’ve tried.