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Bark to bark? Can’t decide.

Cabinetman

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Ian
So for my bench legs I am cutting up my 2” Ash into 4” wide planks and glueing two 2” x 4” ‘s to make 4” square legs. But which way round to do it. Personally I think bark to bark. The timber seems to be very dry. Or doesn’t it matter much?

B6213B7A-05B5-4F41-A06E-454B3098DF48.jpeg

B895F542-F2F8-4C64-98FF-959BF616F026.jpeg

Thanks Ian
 
Furniture legs are traditionally of rift-sawn timber. I don't think it will make any great difference in a bench, but mayber your "bark" to bark" suggestion is marginally preferable. If the wood did start cupping, which is highly unlikely, then it wouldn't show as a split on the outside of the bench leg. Plus, it would be easier to restrain any such tendency with a few screws up the centre-lines, or the use of tusk tenons for the joints.
 
This might be a dumb question Ian but what are you trying to avoid by using any one of those 3 methods?
 
For what it is worth these are the legs of my work bench – one bark to bark, one pith to pith and two aligned.

DSC03533.jpg

I could say it was an experimental ploy, but actually, just getting the best faces outwards might be nearer the mark.

After 6 years it has made not a jot of difference. No variance at all between the legs.

Soft pine glued with PVA btw.
 
Andyp":2eusfpuw said:
This might be a dumb question Ian but what are you trying to avoid by using any one of those 3 methods?
That’s a good question, I suppose I was trying to avoid splits – not that I think it was likely to happen.
That made me laugh Tiresias and thank you, every combination and as suspected no difference at all.
Probably BTB then, unless it is going to look better another way maybe.
 
That what I thought. In which case isn't the wood most likely to split from the centre of the log outwards? Therefore PTP is preferable.
 
Andyp":sqx89x1x said:
That what I thought. In which case isn't the wood most likely to split from the centre of the log outwards? Therefore PTP is preferable.

That's exactly what I thought but hesitated to say in case it made me look stupid. :)
 
Lons":3jq3dv9c said:
Andyp":3jq3dv9c said:
That what I thought. In which case isn't the wood most likely to split from the centre of the log outwards? Therefore PTP is preferable.

That's exactly what I thought but hesitated to say in case it made me look stupid. :)

I’m past caring. :)
But always willing to learn.
 
The wood looks nice and slow grown (tightly packed annual rings) with not much difference between summer and winter growth. I would expect shrinkage should be minimal between the outer and inner rings and I really don't think it's going to have much effect on the structure which way you put them together.

Wide boards in contrast will always curl away from the heartwood if left in the sun or get damp and dry out.
 
I'd go with your sketch number 2, i.e., tangentially cut pith facing to bark facing for reasons outlined at 1 below. In the end, your choice of course.

1. Tangentially cut planks joined bark face to pith face cup in tandem leaving, but potentially leaving a step at the faces where the jointed line shows, especially if creepy adhesive is used. Importantly, the glue line should remain tight and the piece survive over the long term.

2. Pith face to pith face glue ups tend to open at the outer limits of the glue line. Once a glue line starts to open like this it tends to keep opening.

3. Bark face to bark face parts try to cup away from each other at the mid-point of the glue line. This glue up should survive better than the one at 2 above.

4. Two parts radially cut— 1/4 sawn— show the least distortion and provide the best chance for long term success.
Slainte.
 
If I was facing this question, I'd pay attention to Richard Maguire. Richard used to earn his living making and selling woodwork benches and has probably built up more legs than any of us.

Here's a 20 minute video in which he explains and demonstrates his methods.

In general, he favours your Option 1, but give it a watch for some subtleties of preparing the pieces to get a strong joint that won't open up.

[youtubessl]8LBs2h6Vrgc[/youtubessl]
 
I would try one of each and see what happens [emoji28]
I once done a similar experiment on some pergola posts, silly me forgot to document it and now can't see the end grain.

Sent from my Redmi Note 9S using Tapatalk
 
Thank you Richard, I knew I’d get the technical input needed from you!
Andy, that was very interesting, I know of Richard the bench man, but it was the first time I had heard him and his wonderful accent and language, he comes from not far to the south of me lol.
Reassuring that he did it pretty much as I would have, so that’s all good. Except he used a good bit more glue than I normally do, I get squeeze out all round, maybe I use more pressure?
The staple trick was clever.
Ian
 
Jonathan":22sw3mxb said:
I would try one of each and see what happens [emoji28]
I once done a similar experiment on some pergola posts, silly me forgot to document it and now can't see the end grain.

Sent from my Redmi Note 9S using Tapatalk
A three legged bench lol! Well you’re pergola presumably isn’t falling apart so maybe it’s not so important after all.
 
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