• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Chris' Workshop Construction

By the time you have cupboards and benches installed how much of the wall are you going to see? Agree it should be white, as is mine, but my guess is that you will see very little of it when in use.
 
Hello to All,

The OSB had a second coat of paint it's not flawless, but good enough.

I'm back on my Oil Rig tomorrow, for 2 weeks, so that's shed progress halted until after the EU referendum.

"Kingspan" is now stored in the shed. So I'm primed for action when I return.

IMG_1521_zpseleokom7.jpg


Chris
 
It must be frustratiing when you build up a head of steam on a project, get into the groove, and then have to down tools for a fortnight. That would drive me crazy.
 
I got a quote but Rockwool batts were much cheaper, so used them both in the ceiling and the walls.
Supported them in the ceiling using strips of membrane stapled to rafters until the OSB cladding was fixed - I waterproofed the roof and outside first, then worked from the inside.

Rod
 
I got them from seconds and co.

Took a chance as they could not guarantee thickness accuracy. But it payed off. Wall ones are 96mm thick idea for 4" timber. Roof are 140mm and floor are all 60mm.

They have been stored in my lounge for weeks. I ordered early as they could not guarantee delivery dates.

The wall and roof ones are rough around the edges but that's ok. The floor ones have good edges so should all but up together nicely.

I like it when a plan comes together.

Let me know if you want to know exactly what I ordered.

Chris.
 
Back home now and on with The Shed.....

The "Kingspan" insulation was cut and fixed into place on the front face. I decided to leave a gap approximately 10mm and then fill the gap with expanding foam. After some experimentation, prior to construction, I found this to be my preferable method.

IMG_1525_zpsl3zjxbfp.jpg


IMG_1524_zpsdgbinihe.jpg


The insulation stands slightly proud of the timer work.

IMG_1527_zpsqhztplun.jpg


The DPC was then trimmed slightly and staples to the stud work.

IMG_1526_zps9zjzwg1p.jpg


And breather membrane stapled into place overhanging the brickwork by 25mm, The window is only propped into place.

IMG_1529_zpsuqw5c39y.jpg


I propose to finish off the bottom of the cladding / top of brickwork area slightly differently to Dan's and Mike's construction. As shown in the drawing below.

abc.jpeg_zps5jsruku5.jpeg


Does anyone know how I should finish the Breather Membrane off around the window ? Looking at the manufacturer's website they advise making good using their acrylic tape. I can't find a way of achieving an overlap in the corner.

IMG_1530_zpsc6jh6sud.jpg
 
Tusses":3vp44ony said:
I like the idea of fixing with the foam !
Click to expand...

Prior to starting construction I made a mock up from 2x4" timber and OSB. Then secured the kinspan with expanding foam. Left the foam for a few days to cure fully, and then tried to disassemble it, to see how far the foam had penetrated and if it had adhered to the timber.

I was impressed the foam had fully penetrated and had adhered fully to the timber. When I forced the assembly apart it was the kingspan that destructed and not the expanding foam.
 
Hi Chris,

Your build is looking great! I'm quite envious of your progress - you just seem to quietly get on with it and get it right, where i obsess for weeks on end about millimetre precision on utterly trivial matters on a 3D model - I've hardly done any work in the real world :oops:

I was wondering if you made any design decisions when building your frame with respect to the doors / windows? Have you just built a space then find windows to fit, or do you have something in mind? I have a vague memory of asking if you had sourced anything, but you must be getting close to the point of needing some now.

I've just turned my attention to windows, so currently trying to figure out what i can fit, how and what will look best!

Cheers

David
 
ScotlandtheDave":1wqt76ol said:
Hi Chris,

Your build is looking great! I'm quite envious of your progress - you just seem to quietly get on with it and get it right, where i obsess for weeks on end about millimetre precision on utterly trivial matters on a 3D model - I've hardly done any work in the real world :oops:

I was wondering if you made any design decisions when building your frame with respect to the doors / windows? Have you just built a space then find windows to fit, or do you have something in mind? I have a vague memory of asking if you had sourced anything, but you must be getting close to the point of needing some now.

I've just turned my attention to windows, so currently trying to figure out what i can fit, how and what will look best!

Cheers

David
Click to expand...

Hello David,

Thank you for the complements.

My advice getting cracking whilst summer is here.

Door and windows are new DG white UPVC windows. The building was designed to comply with building regs regarding toughed glass.

I was advised by someone with more taste than I that either I should go for

"Rustic Look"...Timber cladding and timber doors and windows.
or
"Clean Look"... Neutral colour cladding and UPVC doors and windows . See yellow sketch.

But don't mix. I opted for the clean look. Windows clear glass, door obscure glass. Door opening inwards.

I've just left an aperture for the doors and windows allowing a 5mm gap around, which a shall fill with expanding foam.

If you want more info let me know.

Chris

yellow_zpspaxcaewn.jpeg
 
Righto, Chris, that's enough thinking and sketching. Now get the thing finished! :)
 
Chris, you mentioned toughened. Surely that is just for the door as your windows look high enough that toughened isn't mandated ? Unless they've changed the regs again.
 
RogerS":3ibqsxpe said:
Chris, you mentioned toughened. Surely that is just for the door as your windows look high enough that toughened isn't mandated ? Unless they've changed the regs again.
Click to expand...

Hello Roger,

Several images like this are on the internet. The door is toughed, and I ensured that all windows were in the float glass area.

Chris

26Doors_35-18_WD_Critical_glass_according_to_building_regs__zpsisairg7z.jpg
 
Yup, good to see the rules haven't changed again !
 
A question for Mike G or anyone else that would like to comment.

At the bottom we have the brickwork, DPC, mortar and then the sole plate. I'm now ready now to lift the DPC and fix it to the studwork on the exterior.

What happens to the moisture that's currently in the mortar and sole plate after the rain of the last few days.

Will it eventually dry out ? Even though it has DPC one side and OSB on the other.

Am I worrying too much ?


Chris
 
Yep, relax Chris. It dries. No long term issues.
 
To all my followers,

Progress so far...

IMG_15341_zps6ifivpat.jpg


IMG_15331_zpsppcztzjm.jpg


3 of the 4 walls have been filled with insulation and covered in breather membrane, only the rear wall left to do. The front wall now has battens fixed, ready for cladding. I have a few niggles with the door as it won't latch.

The reason the rear wall has not been tackled is because it necessitates removing the fence. I would like the fence to be removed for the shortest period possible.

The black material under the cladding test piece is insect mesh.

I've been awaiting a few days of good weather forecast so I can tackle the roof. I believe this moment has arrived.

Regards

Chris
 
Looking good chris and I like the blue, both of the sky and the cladding :D

Still pi$$ing down in normandy.
 
Chris Bates":2n0cn9c3 said:
I have a few niggles with the door as it won't latch.
Chris
Click to expand...

Did it latch ok before fitting? if so the frame may be a bit out of square now. there is usually some adjustment built into the hinges that may be enough to align it. on doors I've fitted its done with allen keys. One screw locks the hinge pin then you turn the pin to offset the hinge pivot.. or something like that :)
 
9fingers":krzz6m3a said:
Andyp":krzz6m3a said:
Still pi$$ing down in normandy.
Click to expand...

Hey Andy, can you please stop it rubbing up against our side of the channel as well. Haven't we made it clear enough that we are not keen on sharing stuff with Europe :lol:

Bob
Click to expand...

I bet you won't complain when the warm sunny weather comes up from the south. You can't just pick the good stuff that Europe has to offer you know. :lol:
 
Hello Robert, Andy and Bob.

Thanks

I've been tackling the roof as the weather forecast is good for the next few days. Insulation is currently 3/8ths complete. Same method as the walls but the insulation is 140mm thick. I made a crawler board to fit between the joists.

IMG_15371_zpsj90lasb2.jpg


With regards to the door. Either the latch needs to be 6mm lower or the keeper 6mm higher. I brought the door from a company in the village and he advised they should not need adjusting. I get on well with the gaffer so I'll give him a call. Also there is also a problem with the handle. Maybe the two are linked. It didn't latch well prior to installation as the door had dropped because there was no glass fitted.

Chris
 
To All My Followers.

I completed fitting the insulation between the rafters. Hard work and not the most exciting of the tasks, but it's done.

IMG_1542_zpsbhjg5bgq.jpg


Door people have visited and I need to raise the keeper arrangement on the jamb, by 10mm ish. I'll continue on with the roof whilst the weather's good.

Chris
 
To all my Followers,

Since I last updated you, I’ve put the Breather Membrane on the roof and secured with the roofing batons. This went well and straight forward.

Fixing the Onduline took longer than anticipated…..

My plan is to finish at the verge by folding the Onduline onto the fascia. This necessitates ensuring the Onduline finishes at the correct point on it’s corrugation at the verge.

fixing.ondu-5_zpsomyjko1m.jpg


From my calculations I had to squash each sheet of Onduline down from its stated width by a few mm. This was easier said than done. After lots of experimenting, the way I did this to fix a batten and compress the Onduline, removing the baton once the Onduline was secured.

IMG_1555_zpsh4okkaba.jpg


I did try to trim the sheets at the eaves prior to fitting, but couldn't fit them accurately enough. So I decided to leave excess and trim later. How?, I'm unsure at present

Then I found it difficult getting access to secure the Onduline without crushing it. So I prepared a crawler board to sit on the trough of the corrugations. The rounded rails are set at the correct pitch fit nicely between the corrugations.

IMG_1556_zpsucojxf7n.jpg


IMG_1559_zpsnssbdpfh.jpg


These screws were used. The proper Onduline ones I found to be a little lightweight. The cover caps for these screws have been ordered online, and are yet to be delivered.

IMG_1560_zpssi67geps.jpg


Progress so far....

IMG_1552_zpsipbmzdmu.jpg


It's been hard work!

Chris
 
Hi Chris,

Looking good. What will you do about roof drainage? Water butt?

Malcolm
 
Malc2098":3q768d4r said:
Hi Chris,

Looking good. What will you do about roof drainage? Water butt?

Malcolm
Click to expand...

Hello Malcolm,

My preferable plan is to tie into the garage which goes to a soak away.

If that can't take the amount, then plan B is to discharge it behind the conifer trees.

Chris
 
Thanks, Chris.

Just interested because my project will require draining and I hope a soakaway can do it. Lucky you already have an existing one.

Malcolm
 
My 30sqm workshop has 4 downpipes ( to keep the 10m gutter runs looking as level as possible - sloping gutters offend my engineering eye)
Two discharge into the nearby foul sewer because it was easy to combine with my workshop sink waste and the other two simply have shoes on the end of the downpipe to direct the water away from the blockwork and hence avoid stressing the DPC. I've not inspected it during a torrential downpour of obvious reasons (!) but there are no signs of soil erosion etc after about 11 years.

I might have gone down the soakaway route but I'm hard up on the boundary (built under old PDR rules) and would have meant digging on the land of our neighbour Mr & Mrs Grumpy. :lol:

My other (metal) workshop <10m2, has half its surface water shared with the house soakaway and the rest directed to a water butt with a "natural overflow". This seems to re fill in no time during rain but never seems a useful amount in reserve for the garden in peak summer (if you recall those?). If I had my time again, I would not have put in the 150l butt.
Just my 2p
Bob
 
Thanks, Bob,

My 20sqm shop plus 12 sqm roofed deck will need to be drained and I'm on a sloping site. So I will try to avoid surface run off by employing a soak-away. Maybe even a run of 3 butts with overflow on the last one. But summers these days seem to be wetter than winters!

Malcolm
 
For linked butts, I'd suggest fairly large bore pipe between them and fitted such that you can remove for cleaning from time to time. Surface water is full of "life" and pipes can block easily when there is no significant flow/head of water to flush them through.
"universal" compression type fittings like those used on sink traps are easily undone when needed. If you connect up 3 butts each connected to the ends of arms in an "E" shaped then the link pipe can be released.
I'd use 40mm upvc pipe.

Good luck
Bob
 
I used to use 3 connected large butts and in the infrequent drought years they quickly ran out.
Heard on a gardening programme that the water is full of nasties and shouldn't really be used for plants anyway.
I've since disconnected them from the down pipe and re-sited two of them elsewhere - they fill up quite quickly even with their vented lids on.
I normally only use the water on lime hating plants in pots.

Rod
 
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